I have a 92 Honda accord and we can't get it started. We've looked at/changed the distributor, coil, spark plugs and wires, main relay, fuel pump/relay and still won't start I'm getting spark and its firing but still can't get It running..
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I have a 92 Honda accord and we can't get it started. We've looked at/changed the distributor, coil, spark plugs and wires, main relay, fuel pump/relay and still won't start I'm getting spark and its firing but still can't get It running..
If the Check Engine Light comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then focus on the distributor. Make sure the distributor housing is made by Honda--all others are problematic and unreliable, in my experience. In fact, over 50% of new aftermarket distributors for Hondas have not worked at AMHD. Aftermarket Ignition Control Modules and coils have been fine, however.
If you replaced the distributor, you may have the timing too retarded. Try loosening the three distributor mounting bolts and rotating the distributor slightly counter clockwise (CCW). This will advance the timing.
Ok if that doesn't work what other suggestions could help...
Return the distributor to the auto parts store for another, if it's under warranty. Aftermarket distributors for Hondas have trouble with the internal sensors (CKP, TDC, and CYL). Personally, I would buy a genuine Honda distributor housing and install an aftermarket Ignition Control Module and coil, to keep the cost down.
Where did the two distributors come from (i.e. salvage or auto parts store)?
Auto parts store...
Did it come complete with a new Ignition Control Module and coil?
It all came as a whole.. The whole distributor set up
Again, I think both distributors have been bad. I've seen this happen many times on this site. You may have spark, but it is not firing when it needs to.
So if its not firing at the right time, is it just the timing...
Yes, but that is a big deal. If the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP), located inside the distributor is not working properly, rotating the distributor housing will not likely solve the problem. We have tons of problems at AMHD with aftermarket distributors for Hondas. I'd rather get a genuine Honda distributor from salvage.
As an aside, did you check all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter? Have any codes been thrown? Also, be sure to clean the main ECM ground, which is located on the thermostat housing.
My gut is this is a simple bad distributor problem.
Can you hear the fuel pump run for 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON?
Not sure my mechanic has had my car for a week now... He said he checked the fuel pump and the fuel pump relay and said they were fine...
I figured you must have taken it to a mechanic, since the fuel pump was replaced. They are great at getting people to replace Honda fuel pumps unnecessarily. I have yet to see a bad Honda fuel pump.
I'd go back and ask your mechanic to verify that the Check Engine Light comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), and that the fuel pump runs during this interval. This is KEY information!
Did anyone check the timing belt? I have seen teeth come off the belt which is enough to throw the timing off, but if you pull the cover back to look at the belt, it looks fine at first glance. Pull the cover, mark the belt, and turn the crank by hand while checking all the teeth until you see the mark again.
My father had a V W back in the 90's that wouldn't start. The mechanic replaced all sorts of stuff. I asked if he checked the timing belt and he said he did. Finally I took it and I checked the belt. It was missing 5 or 6 teeth. New belt solved the problem.
Ok I'll let him know. Thank you...
Change the fuel filter.. before touching the fuel pump..
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