Car always immediately started - no problems ever. Got in and started engine put it in reverse and did not give the engine enough gas stalling the engine. Tried to restart the engine and it turns over no problem but no sputter at all. Plugged in OBD reader and there are no error codes. I need help!

If the Check Engine Light comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then focus on the distributor. Normally, replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil solves the problem. Be sure to apply silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM.

It's also a good idea to replace the rotor and distributor cap, since worn ones frequently kill ICMs and coils. High secondary resistance causes the voltage to be turned on the ICM and coil.

Well, the check engine light comes on then goes off as you said. Issue is now how do you KNOW you need an ICM or not and coil. Not guessing but verifying. Are your answers from general auto repair knowledge or Honda Civic specific knowledge? The ICM is an expensive part to be guessing with (~$400).

What model and engine do you have? Most people consider me an expert on Hondas, especially when it comes to ignition systems. I've done hundreds of these situations and worked on every aspect of your car. My rule of thumb is to replace ICMs and coils in Honda Civics every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

Before buying the ICM and coil:

. Test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter--be very thorough.

. Test for spark--if none, focus on the distributor.

On a 1998 Civic LX, AutoZone charges $93.99 for the ICM and $79.99 for the coil, prior to applying any discount codes (20%). AutoZone has a Well's machine for testing ICMs. The reality is if it tests bad it is bad. If it tests okay, it may still be bad. You can always go and get a second or third opinion, including taking it to Honda.

If you are a sailor, here's how to do the work yourself and save a bundle.

Ignition Control Module (ICM or Igniter) and Coil Replacement

Bench testing ICMs and coils is virtually useless. It does not come close to simulating the extreme heat that often causes these components to fail. I recommend replacing these critical and problematic components every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.


1. Disconnect negative battery cable, recording any radio codes first.

2. Remove hex-head machine screws (3), securing distributor cap to housing, using an 8mm nut driver.

3. Move distributor cap and wires off to the side.

4. Remove machine screw securing rotor to shaft, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver. A 1/4-inch drive magnetic bit holder (e.g. Wiha 52650) with a #2 Phillips head bit works really well. It may be necessary to "hit" the starter once or twice, in order to rotate rotor for access to mounting screw.

5. Remove rotor and leak cover.

6. Unfasten ICM wires, remove coil mounting screws (on distributors with a coil inside), and set coil aside. Trick: Removing the coil first, on distributors with a coil inside, improves access to the ICM.

7. Remove both screws securing heat sink to housing, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver.

8. Remove heat sink from distributor and unfasten both screws mounting ICM to heat sink, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver.

9. Clean connections with #240 abrasive cloth or steel wool.

10. Coat the back of the new ICM (or old ICM, if reusing) with a thin, even coat of silicone heat transfer compound. This special silicone grease increases heat transfer to the heat sink. Failure to apply silicone heat transfer compound will cause the ICM to quickly fail. Arctic Silver 5 is recommended by an AMHD member, which is available at Radio Shack.

If the ICM and the heat sink are simply placed together, the small air gaps (insulator) that naturally exist between them will inhibit heat transfer. By filling these gaps, the compound allows a direct path through which heat can travel. Failure to apply this grease is one reason why some Hondas suddenly die. Attention to detail makes a big difference with modern day electronics.

11. Mount ICM to heat sink and reinstall ICM, ICM terminal wires, coil, coil wires, leak cover, rotor, and distributor cap. Ensure female ICM connectors fit snugly--crimp with pliers, if necessary.


Conceptually, the ICM is a large output transistor (switch) controlling current through the primary coil. ICMs replace points and condenser in older vehicles. In the primary coil, current builds to 5 to 12 amps, generating lots of heat (due to inductance). Then, the trigger signal from the Crankshaft Position Sensor controls when the ICM "switches off" current to the ground wire of the primary coil, causing amperage to go to zero. When this happens, 12 to 14 volts in the primary coil is "stepped-up" to 30,000 volts in the secondary coil. This process creates a "type" of alternating current required for the coil (step-up transformer) to work. In a properly working ICM, timing is precisely when needed to fire each spark plug.

Bottom Line: ICMs and coils take a beating.

Note: Distributor cap contacts can oxidize or corrode, creating high secondary resistance, which can result in rotor and ICM failure, reduced mileage, CEL coming on, catalytic converter failure, or failed emissions test. The secondary ignition system will destroy the ICM and coil, if you do not properly maintain the ignition system. This means replacing the distributor cap, rotor, and spark plug wires every 60,000 miles.

WARNING: Intermittent ICM failure can allow fuel to build-up in the exhaust system. Detonation can then blow the exhaust system off the vehicle.

Well, I think I have some work to do now. Yes I am a sailor and will have to bow out of two races tomorrow to troubleshoot the Honda. I live on board my sailboat and my backup vehicle is Honda motorcycle. Will let you know how things work out though.

John

Did you get the Civic running?

Yes, got it running and the timing seems perfect after jut deciding to replace the whole distributor, cap and rotor. Still had original rotor on it ater 202K. I guess it is my fualt the ICM blew. The difference between a new ICM and a whole new distributor with coil etc. was a little over ~$100. Drives fine now. Thanks for answering and tolerating my pointed questions as to your level of experience and expertice.

Got it fixed early enough on Saturday I made three races with the wife taking three 2nd places. Wish it was better but at least we were on the water and having fun not under the car.

:)

John - Sailorsocal (Redondo Beach)

Good job. I hope you installed a genuine Honda distributor--others can be very unreliable. If any ignition issues surface, immediately suspect the distributor if it is an aftermarket part.

Aftermarket ICMs and coils have been fine. The problem has been with the distributor housing, especially with the internal sensors (CKP, TDC, and CYL).