Ask Me Help Desk

Ask Me Help Desk (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/forum.php)
-   Tools & Power Equipment (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/forumdisplay.php?f=334)
-   -   Log Splitter Lock Up (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=718410)

  • Nov 21, 2012, 03:59 PM
    fruch
    Log Splitter Lock Up
    I am working on a neglected Huskee 35 ton log splitter. It sat outside for about a year. Checked engine oil level, drained old fuel, added fresh fuel. I went to pull recoil starter and found engine would not turn. I removed rope recoil starter and found I could turn the engine backwards quite a ways until it stops, then I could turn the engine forward until it stops. Engine does not appear to be seized up, and it sounds like it has compression when I turn it by hand backwards and forward till it stops. I think it may have some kind of hydralic lock up thing going on. Where do I start looking? Is there a way I can check to see if this is a hydralic problem without removing the hydralic pump? Thanks.
  • Nov 21, 2012, 05:36 PM
    ballengerb1
    Remove the plug and see if you can rotate a complete rotation. Also remove the oil fill plug while doing this, does anything flush back up and out of the fill tube?
  • Nov 22, 2012, 05:07 AM
    fruch
    ballengerb1, Thanks for the quick answer. I will give it a try Sat. and report back. Thanks for the help, Happy Thankgiving!
  • Nov 23, 2012, 06:00 PM
    crigby
    Hi,
    Sounds like a thrown rod to me; but it could something hydraulically locking in the cylinder.
    Peace,
    Clarke
  • Nov 24, 2012, 11:31 AM
    fruch
    Gentlemen:
    I removed the spark plug and was able to get the motor to turn easily. When I pulled the starter recoil cord, some watery gunk came out of the spark plug hole. I pulled the starter cord a few times until the gunk stopped coming out. I sprayed a few bursts of WD40 in the spark plug hole and pulled the starter cord a few more times. I then took an oil can and squirted a bit of oil into the spark plug hole and pilled the starter cord a few more times. I put in the cleaned and regaped spark plug and tried to start it but ti would not start. I put in a fresh spark plug and tried to start it again but it would not start. I tried a bit of starter fluid (not alot) but it still would not start. When I pull the starter cord, the engine feels and sounds like it has compression, I believe it is gettng spark, I pulled the starter cord with the spark plug out of the hole but attached to the wire, and saw spark. It looks like the motor is getting fuel as well. The good news is the engine turns, the bad news is it will not start. I believe the water entered the motor through the carb, what should I do next?
  • Nov 24, 2012, 12:13 PM
    ballengerb1
    Your carb likely leaked fuel into the cylinder while sitting for a year, some water too. Drain the oil and let it drain for a good 15 minute. Pull the rope several times during the drain. Refill the crank with oil. Clean the carb, especially the float and needle, fresh gas and you should be good to go assuming no additional issues from sitting so long
  • Nov 24, 2012, 12:38 PM
    fruch
    Ballengerb1, I got it started! After my last post, I took the bowl off the carb and I cleaned it and the float. It was gunked up, but it wasn't horrible. I cleaned everything and put it back together and pulled the starter cord a bunch of times. I could tell it wanted to start. I finally got it going and running pretty smooth. I added a couple of OZ. of Sea Foam and filled the tank with more fresh fuel. It runs OK except for a small backfire noise once in a while. The oil in the crank case looks OK, so I plan to run the motor for about 10 minutes tomorrow to get it nice and warm, then I am going to drain it, add new oil, run it again to get the new oil hot, drain that, then add add fresh oil. I hope that helps. Please let me know if this sound like a reasonable plan. After I finish with the motor I will move on to the hydralic system. Thanks for your help.
  • Nov 24, 2012, 12:44 PM
    ballengerb1
    If you have not stopped the engine yet do so ASAP, your oil is contaminated and fill foul your bearings and rings. Fresh oil, drain the gas and fresh gas, an ounce of Seafoam in this next tank .
  • Nov 25, 2012, 08:09 AM
    fruch
    Ballengerb1, Good Morning. I drained the old oil, flushed it a bit with additional oil.
    The old oil that came out did not look terrible, it was dirty. I refilled the crankcase with the proper oil and 1.5 oz of Marvel Mystery oil, ran it for about 10 min, drained the oil, flushed it and repeated this procedure except I increased the time I ran the motor to 20 Min the second time, and I am on the third time right now. I will run it for about 30 min, drain, flush and refill. I think I caught it in time, the oil is coming out dirty but not horrible. Do you suggest any other actions or additives?
  • Nov 25, 2012, 08:24 AM
    ballengerb1
    No you should be good but keep an eye on that needle valve to make sure it doesn't allow the tank to drain.

  • All times are GMT -7. The time now is 12:01 AM.