I need to change 2 different motion detector lights. I live in a 1977 mobilehome, and know how to turn off the breaker boxes. My problem is I want to make sure the power is really off so I don't get zapped. I have the Knopp voltage tester and the other ? Yellow/red wires with some sort of light at the end . The two wires have alligator clips at the end. I have inherited the mobilehome along with all the tools from my parents. I can find no manuals on how to operate these devices.
Please advise.

Also do you think the wiring in the mobilehome will be the same colors as the wiring in the new motion detector lights?

Thanks for any help you can give me.

The tester with the light is a neon tester. Touch one end to the black supply and the other to ground. If it lights it is hot. Isn't there a wall switch? My suggestion is to go to the library or Goodwill and look for a basic Electrical book.

Take the time and money to have your own, new, voltage tester, with instructions.

Be careful working on live panels, need to wear voltage rated gloves and a fire rated face shield or safety glasses.

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Originally Posted by ma0641

The tester with the light is a neon tester. Touch one end to the black supply and the other to ground. If it lights it is hot. Isn't there a wall switch? My suggestion is to go to the library or Goodwill and look for a basic Electrical book.

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Thank you

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Originally Posted by tkrussell

Take the time and money to have your own, new, voltage tester, with instructions.

Be careful working on live panels, need to wear voltage rated gloves and a fire rated face shield or safety glasses.

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Thank You

Knopp is what is commonly called a Wiggy ,short for the inventor George P. Wigginton. It is an electrical tester preferred by professional electricians for testing voltage presence in circuits. The voltage range is not super accurate but it will indicate the presence of voltage reliably in the range of 90 to 480V.
Cutand pasted this
A small permanent magnet rotor is usually mounted at the top of the meter. For DC, this magnet flips one way or the other, indicating by the revealed color (red or black) which lead of the voltmeter (the red or the black lead) is positive. For AC, the rotor simply vibrates, indicating that the meter is connected to an AC circuit. Another form of tester uses a miniature neon lamp; the negative electrode glows, indicating polarity on DC circuits, or both electrodes glow, indicating AC.
Models made by some manufacturers include continuity test lights, which are energized by a battery within the tester. This is particularly advantageous when testing, for example, fuses in live circuits, since no switching is required to change from continuity mode to voltage detecting mode.
They're really tough instruments,can handle drop off the top of a power pole, they also work by sight and feel, I like it for pump panels and starters. It also indicates the presence of power as contrasted with just induced voltages in wire runs when used in conjunction with a DVM.

Thanks Shuntripper for the information. Great explanation. What are these things worth
Anyway?

Glenda

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Originally Posted by digerdo2

Thanks Shuntripper for the information. Great explanation. What are these things worth
anyway?

glenda

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50-60 bucks new.
Indispensable as far as distinguishing between real power and "ghost" voltage readings and induced voltages (one electrician says to another "it's just wire") read by DVMs and D'arsonval type meters meant for low line voltages

Customer with a Radio Shack multitester asked me "why is this red circuit on?" when we were wiring a new restaurant. I checked it first at the box where 12-3 MC cable came from a panel 50' cable length away. Read a range of voltages form 19-30V never constant, with a Fluke DVM. The black wire was turned on for tempower use. Then I tested to neutral and ground with my Wiggy... nothing.
The red conductor wasn't even landed in the panel, (I checked) so I went back to the box and grabbed the stripped ground pigtail in one hand, put one wiggy probe in my mouth and with the customer gaping in disbelief, I put the other lead on his Radio Shack certified "hot " wire.

I got a little talking to from my employer for that stunt.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shuntripper

50-60 bucks new.
indispensable as far as distinguishing between real power and "ghost" voltage readings and induced voltages (one electrician says to another "it's just wire") read by DVMs and D'arsonval type meters meant for low line voltages

customer with a Radio Shack multitester asked me "why is this red circuit on?" when we were wiring a new restaurant. I checked it first at the box where 12-3 MC cable came from a panel 50' cable length away. read a range of voltages form 19-30V never constant, with a Fluke DVM. The black wire was turned on for tempower use. Then I tested to neutral and ground with my Wiggy.....nothing.
The red conductor wasn't even landed in the panel, (I checked) so I went back to the box and grabbed the stripped ground pigtail in one hand, put one wiggy probe in my mouth and with the customer gaping in disbelief, I put the other lead on his Radio Shack certified "hot " wire.

I got a little talking to from my employer for that stunt.

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Thanks again for your explanation. I appreciate it very
Much.

Glenda