I am moving my stack-able washer/dryer to a second floor closet and I am wondering if it is OK to put the shut offs/Waste line behind the machine with access from the back (via another closet)?

Also, I am adding about 15" of 2" PVC for the drain. Does the trap need to go close to the machine or can it go anywhere in the 15' run? Also, 36" from trap to washer hose?

Thanks very much.

Hi Carly

You want to install a single lever washing machine shutoff valve at a place where you can shut the water off to the washing machine after each wash. You also want to install stainless steel braided hoses to the machine.

Now, you want to install the PTRAP right next to the machine and install the vent for the drain connecting it to an existing vent or installing an air admittance valve (called an AAV), if allowed in your area. Standpipe is 30-36" and needs hose to be above the washing machine when it fits into the standpipe.

Finally, if I was installing a washing machine on the second floor I would also be installing a FLOOD STOP AUTOMATIC shut off valve as an emergency backup flood control just in case a hose bursts or the washing machine overflows. Google it and look into it as these devices can save thousands in damage, OK?

Back to you...

Mark

Thanks Mass. So the two valve Oatley box I bought at Home Depot is not recommended? Also, the original 2" line is vented. Does my adding 12" of run require additional venting?

Thanks again..

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Originally Posted by massplumber2008

Hi Carly

You want to install a single lever washing machine shutoff valve at a place where you can shut the water off to the washing machine after each wash. You also want to install stainless steel braided hoses to the machine.

Now, you want to install the PTRAP right next to the machine and install the vent for the drain connecting it to an existing vent or installing an air admittance valve (called an AAV), if allowed in your area. Standpipe is 30-36" and needs hose to be above the washing machine when it fits into the standpipe.

Finally, if I was installing a washing machine on the second floor I would also be installing a FLOOD STOP AUTOMATIC shut off valve as an emergency backup flood control just in case a hose bursts or the washing machine overflows. Google it and look into it as these devices can save thousands in damage, OK?

Back to you...

Mark

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So the two valve Oatley box I bought at Home Depot is not recommended? Also, the original 2" line is vented. Does my adding 12" of run require additional venting?

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If this is the washer box you b ought .(see image)m I see no problem in installing it, This means opening up the wall and installing the box on the studs. (see image)
As shown in the image the trap and stand pip now becomes part of the washer box.

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the original 2" line is vented. Does my adding 12" of run require additional venting?

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you will have to run a new vent off the sanitary tee the trap connects to and run it over to the old vent and connect using a inverted tee, Don't forget to slope the line back to the washer. And lastly I would place the washer on a washer pan and run a 3/4" PVC line out for a drain. Good luck. Tom

Thanks Speedball.. That is the box. So from my diagram, does it look like I will need additional venting. Basically all I am doing is raising the drain line to the second floor..

Also, The washer is going in a closet but the dryer vent, supply lines, and rain come from behind. I am wondering if it is acceptable to put the washer box in the closet behind the washer (so you would have to go in the other closet to shut the water off). Thanks.

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Originally Posted by speedball1

If this is the washer box you b ought .(see image)m I see no problem in installing it, This means opening up the wall and installing the box on the studs. (see image)
As shown in the image the trap and stand pip now becomes part of the washer box.
you will have to run a new vent off the sanitary tee the trap connects to and run it over to the old vent and connect using a inverted tee, Don't forget to slope the line back to the washer. And lastly I would place the washer on a washer pan and run a 3/4" PVC line out for a drain. Good luck. Tom

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The washer box should be facing the washer, I realize you're trying to install the washer station without tearing up more then's necessary but you're into a major remodel here, Let's do it right.
Your original hook up left you with a direct open connection to the sewer allowing sewer gas to enter your home. Both dumb and unhealthy. Could also get your house red tagged by The Health Department,
If you share plumbing with a neighbor where do you live and where does this line run to? If something's draining into it you can't use it as a vent, What will be done whit the old washer set up?
How far is it from the trap to the new vent? Back to you, Tom

There is no room for the washer box to fit beside the washer. This is old military housing, all concrete, and there is a bathroom directly behind the closet. My only option is to put it behind the washer with access from a closet behind.

The trap (I know about the trap - can't believe whoever did this originally didn't get gased) is about 12 feet from the vent pipe. As MassPlumber suggested, could I use an AAV?

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Originally Posted by speedball1

The washer box should be facing the washer, I realize you're trying to install the washer station without tearing up more then's necessary but you're into a major remodel here, Let's do it right.
Your original hook up left you with a direct open connection to the sewer allowing sewer gas to enter your home. Both dumb and unhealthy. Could also get your house red tagged by The Health Department,
If you share plumbing with a neighbor where do you live and where does this line run to? If something's draining into it you can't use it as a vent, What will be done whit the old washer set up?
How far is it from the trap to the new vent? Back to you, Tom

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Will you be pulling a permit on this job? Tom

This is one of a thousand units in this complex, and about 2/3's of the units have done the same thing. Two weeks ago I had a plumber stop by to give me a bid (on the recommendation of the electrician, who has a permit for the electrical) and I never heard back from him. No response to emails or phone calls and I just can't wait anymore. Whenever possible, I leave it to the pro's, but I also can't sit around. So no permit for the plumber (waiting for lightning to strike)..

Thanks Tom. After seeing it in writing, I now realize how dumb it is not to just pull a permit and do it right. I appreciate the input.

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Originally Posted by speedball1

Will you be pulling a permit on this job? Tom

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If others in the complex have done the same thing you should be able to get a solid estimate. Good luck and if we can help just ask, Tom

Thanks again. Was able to get the pro over and we passed inspection this morning. He ended up putting in a Studor vent..

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Originally Posted by speedball1

If others in the complex have done the same thing you should be able to get a solid estimate. good luck and if we can help just ask, Tom

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Great news! Thanks for the update. Tom