I found a leak in our building from an old lead supply line that runs underneath the floor. The floor boards come up right where the leak is - so I could get at it and got a good look and the lead pipe had been crimped to seal it. (the pipe was cut off and crimped)The pipe was leaking pretty heavily from the crimp. I tried plumber's epoxy before I realized that this would not work on a lead supply---Sooo I cut the pipe cleaned it up, put on some flux, crimped it again and then heated it up to seal the crimp. This did not work, there was a small hole that I missed. I have since tried to reheat, but the hole only grew bigger. Is this the right approach? Should I just start over and try again? Someone at the hardware store told me that lead pipe leaks on supply lines are unfixable and I'm going to have to rip out the whole pipe! Tracing the lead pipe has proved a little difficult... Any advice?

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Originally Posted by pippiz

I found a leak in our building from an old lead supply line that runs underneath the floor. .... Any advice?

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God I hope this water supply line is not connected up to the drinking water system. Need more description as to what this pipe is connected to and size. Also what type of fitting connections are close by. Are you sure this is a lead supply line? Nm

I doubt anybody will disagree the best thing is to trace the pipe back to wherever it starts and remove it completely. If that was easy, it may have been done long ago. And if responded to heating and crimping, it must really be a lead pipe. Is the OD in good shape and matches modern pipe? If so, some sort of a compression fitting connecting to a capped nipple should fix it. The Shark's Tooth fittings come in caps, but I don't know if they work with lead. I like the CPVC compression unions. Cheap and many sizes in stock at any hardware or home center.

The pipe is definitely lead and looks to be 1 inch. It runs a couple feet under the floor and then there is a section of wall actually removed where I can also see one of the main drain vents. It runs parallel (kind of underneath and behind) the main stack and actually curves upward with it I can on ly see from there that it goes up about 2 feet... it might go all the way up to the ceiling (12 ft) for all I know. This building used to be the old library in this neighborhood. The 3rd and 4rth floors burned down in a fire in the 70's - and they just lobbed the building off at the second floor -- so there are a lot of oddities. Ripping out the pipe seems to mean ripping out wall and ceilings... Is there anyway to just seal it? I'm not sure if the pipe IS actually 1 inch... it looks a little bigger.. I will look into whether those compression fitting can work with lead.
P

What you need to do is measure the OD of the pipe. Modern 3/4'' copper or CPVC pipe is about 7/8'' OD, and galvanaized and PVC are just over 1'' OD. They make compression fittings to fit them that have end caps that squeeze down on rubber sleves. They will seal on anything close to the right diameter and reasonably smooth. Match the OD of the lead pipe to a modern pipe and buy the correct compression fitting. I am not sure how the regular brass compression fittings would work on lead.

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Originally Posted by pippiz

The pipe is definately lead

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If this is part of the domestic supply in your house, at least install a water filter to eliminate the lead in the drinking water. Especially if you have young ones. Nm

The 'lead pipe' is likely a 3/4" galvanized pipe. you can use a 3/4" galvanized dresser couple but they tend to blow apart if not supported very well.

Well, this building was built in 1890 so I'm not sure if that means the pipe is lead or galvanized - ( does that mean coated?) but it was soft as butter.
However, I used a Mcdonald compression fitting over the pipe rather than recrimping it...
AND it works great!
I'm really glad I didn't have to rip up the floor.
Thanks everyone, really helpful advice!

You really do have actual lead pipes. I suggest you don't drink that water.

Good to hear. Doug brought up a point I should have on supporting the pipe. I don't recognize the McDonald fitting. Unless it uses the metal ferules that dig into the pipe, it could blow out. I have a number of the CPVC ones in my house, but secured them with wire to make sure they never blow out.

I was sure after you cut and crimped it, you knew if it was lead. A magnet would quickly remove all doubt.

How much pipe do you have to work with? If have a foot or two to work with cut a piece off and take it to a plumbing supply store. It is relatively easy to get a compression coupling to fit lead pipe.

The other option is to crimp the lead.I guess I'm showing my age but I have run into lead hundreds of times and if it can't be disconnected from the source I crimp them off.
The best technique is to flatten the pipe. Put a sledge hammer on one side then hammer the opposite side of the pipe until flat. Then fold the flattened piece and repeat.
I have never had one leak after it has be crimped completely.
As for drinking to water from lead pipe. Lead gets a coating after a few years and the lead stops leaching into the water. Once it is disturbed the coating breaks down and you should run the water for a few minutes before you drink it. If your abandoning this line that shouldn't be an issue.
Gook luck.

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Originally Posted by Ken 297

How much pipe do you have to work with? if have a foot or two to work with cut a piece off and take it to a plumbing supply store. It is relatively easy to get a compression coupling to fit lead pipe.

The other option is to crimp the lead.I guess i'm showing my age but I have run into lead hundreds of times and if it can't be disconnected from the source I crimp them off.
The best technique is to flatten the pipe. Put a sledge hammer on one side then hammer the opposite side of the pipe until flat. Then fold the flattened piece and repeat.
I have never had one leak after it has be crimped completely.
As for drinking to water from lead pipe. Lead gets a coating after a few years and the lead stops leaching into the water. Once it is disturbed the coating breaks down and you should run the water for a few minutes before you drink it. If your abandoning this line that shouldn't be an issue.
gook luck.

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Hi Ken, You got to be an old timer. Thanks for the fix info.

Hi again Pippiz. I hate to repeat myself, but in this case... INSTALL A CARBON WATER FILTER AT THE kitchen and bathroom SINKS. :D :D nmwirez