Ask Me Help Desk - 1999 honda accord lx stalling while driving, won't start up sometimes

Hello! I have a 1999 honda accord lx with 214,xxx miles on it. My car has been getting worse MPGs over the past year. I do drive it roughly 100 miles a day though for my job. I had to get a new catalytic converter done in June. Not much improvement with my MPGs. About a month ago the car died after I stopped at a light, made it through the intersection but died a little ways down the road from the intersection. The steering wheel locked up, but I was able to sort of move out of the way some before the car completely died. It took about 5 tries to get the car to start. By the way my radio and lights stayed on. I drove it around a parking lot for 10 minutes. Then parked it to run in a get a smoothie. Roughly 4 minutes later, I cam back and it wouldn't start! Took about 5 tries again. I sat and let it run for 15 minutes before I went home. About a week later, it wouldn't start. Took a few tries again. Then a week later it died when I was going about 25 mph down a hill at night. I almost didn't notice it but I noticed that the green key light was flashing and the steering wheel was locked. Took awhile to get it started. My boyfriend told me to give it gas as I start it. But in the two weeks or so it has died once while driving it. And it doesn't like to start all the time. Two days ago it took 20 minutes to get it started. It died before I could give it enough gas to help. Last night my dad looked at the car. Luckily for me the car wouldn't start about every other time. The green key light flashes. The engine does make the noise turning over noise. The fuel pump does come on.. quiet but it does. Once the car dies now I have noticed that the dash lights go out except for the green key light. We did an oil change last month. New air filter 3 months ago with new spark plugs and wires. Ive tried the seafoam every now and then in the gas tank. When we did the oil change we put half in the gas tank or half with the oil and half in the gas, run it for 5 minutes or so. Then did the oil change. No change in MPGs. (least of my worries right now) My dad looked at my cap and rotor about 4 months ago and he said it look fine. Some wear but fine. The mechanic did do a fuel injection service thingy with my cat convert. And my dad replaced an O2 sensor about 4 months ago since the car was throwing codes left and right... no check engine light since June when it said to replace the cat convert. The EFI box was fine. The solder was perfect! Nothing wrong at all. We do have a fuel strainer but my dad wants to do it only if it needs it... which it prob does. And I am tight on money... PLEASE HELP!!

Replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil, located inside the distributor, will solve your problem. Apply silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM. I recommend that you also replace the rotor and distributor cap. High resistance in those components often causes high secondary voltage to find an alternative path to ground, which is often through the ICM and coil. It doesn't take long until they are fried.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

Replaceing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil, located inside the distributor, will solve your problem. Apply silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM. I recommend that you also replace the rotor and distributor cap. High resistance in those components often causes high secondary voltage to find an alternative path to ground, which is often through the ICM and coil. It doesn't take long until they are fried.

Thanks :) do you think I should also put a new fuel filter on? Since I have it. I am hoping it will improve my mpgs! My fuel pump is working.. So I don't want to mess with it...

No, since it's only a strainer on the end of the fuel pump. If you had a separate fuel filter, then I would have said yes.

Replacing the ICM and coil will solve most of your problems. Afterwards, you won't even worry about the strainer. I'd return it for a refund.

Since funds are tight, here's how to do the work yourself:

Ignition Control Module (ICM or Igniter) and Coil Replacement

Bench testing ICMs and coils is virtually useless. It does not come close to simulating the extreme heat that often causes these components to fail. I recommend replacing these critical and problematic components every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

1. Disconnect negative battery cable, recording any radio codes first.

2. Remove hex-head machine screws (3), securing distributor cap to housing, using an 8mm nut driver.

3. Move distributor cap and wires off to the side.

4. Remove machine screw securing rotor to shaft, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver. A 1/4-inch drive magnetic bit holder (e.g. Wiha 52650) with a #2 Phillips head bit works really well. It may be necessary to "hit" the starter once or twice, in order to rotate rotor for access to mounting screw.

5. Remove rotor and leak cover.

6. Unfasten ICM wires, remove coil mounting screws (on distributors with a coil inside), and set coil aside. Trick: Removing the coil first, on distributors with a coil inside, improves access to the ICM.

7. Remove both screws securing heat sink to housing, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver.

8. Remove heat sink from distributor and unfasten both screws mounting ICM to heat sink, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver.

9. Clean connections with #240 abrasive cloth or steel wool.

10. Coat the back of the new ICM (or old ICM, if reusing) with a thin, even coat of silicone heat transfer compound. This special silicone grease increases heat transfer to the heat sink. Failure to apply silicone heat transfer compound will cause the ICM to quickly fail. Arctic Silver 5 is recommended by an AMHD member, which is available at Radio Shack.

If the ICM and the heat sink are simply placed together, the small air gaps (insulator) that naturally exist between them will inhibit heat transfer. By filling these gaps, the compound allows a direct path through which heat can travel. Failure to apply this grease is one reason why some Hondas suddenly die. Attention to detail makes a big difference with modern day electronics.

11. Mount ICM to heat sink and reinstall ICM, ICM terminal wires, coil, coil wires, leak cover, rotor, and distributor cap. Ensure female ICM connectors fit snugly--crimp with pliers, if necessary.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

Since funds are tight, here's how to do the work yourself:

Ignition Control Module (ICM or Igniter) and Coil Replacement

Bench testing ICMs and coils is virtually useless. It does not come close to simulating the extreme heat that often causes these components to fail. I recommend replacing these critical and problematic components every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

1. Disconnect negative battery cable, recording any radio codes first.

2. Remove hex-head machine screws (3), securing distributor cap to housing, using an 8mm nut driver.

3. Move distributor cap and wires off to the side.

4. Remove machine screw securing rotor to shaft, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver. A 1/4-inch drive magnetic bit holder (e.g., Wiha 52650) with a #2 Phillips head bit works really well. It may be necessary to "hit" the starter once or twice, in order to rotate rotor for access to mounting screw.

5. Remove rotor and leak cover.

6. Unfasten ICM wires, remove coil mounting screws (on distributors with a coil inside), and set coil aside. Trick: Removing the coil first, on distributors with a coil inside, improves access to the ICM.

7. Remove both screws securing heat sink to housing, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver.

8. Remove heat sink from distributor and unfasten both screws mounting ICM to heat sink, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver.

9. Clean connections with #240 abrasive cloth or steel wool.

10. Coat the back of the new ICM (or old ICM, if reusing) with a thin, even coat of silicone heat transfer compound. This special silicone grease increases heat transfer to the heat sink. Failure to apply silicone heat transfer compound will cause the ICM to quickly fail. Arctic Silver 5 is recommended by an AMHD member, which is available at Radio Shack.

If the ICM and the heat sink are simply placed together, the small air gaps (insulator) that naturally exist between them will inhibit heat transfer. By filling these gaps, the compound allows a direct path through which heat can travel. Failure to apply this grease is one reason why some Hondas suddenly die. Attention to detail makes a big difference with modern day electronics.

11. Mount ICM to heat sink and reinstall ICM, ICM terminal wires, coil, coil wires, leak cover, rotor, and distributor cap. Ensure female ICM connectors fit snugly--crimp with pliers, if necessary.

Thanks :) I will tell my dad. Unfortunately he won't be able to anything until tomorrow :(

Have him take his time and use a quality screwdriver; then, he shouldn't have too much trouble.

Gas mileage will also improve, if you use full synthetic 5W-30 engine oil (e.g. Mobil 1). It will help your Accord make it to 400,000 miles. Be sure to change the transmission fluid every 30,000 miles.

I also have a 99 honda accord that died randomly while driving. Honda said there was a recall on something in the ingnition and honda will fix the recall for free.