Hi Experts:

I'm new to the forum, and I'm not a plumber - but I'm doing my second DIY bathroom remodel and I have just a few questions that I'm hoping someone can help me with...

I'm replacing a leaky 36x36 shower pan in our master bath. I selected a larger Swanstone solid surface pan, 36x42 - so, of course, I had to move the drain line. That job went extremely well, but slow - as I was working through a small access hole cut into the floor decking. I'm pretty proud of this part - the drain pipe is perfectly centered in the center of the drain pan when it's in the installed position. I simply replicated the existing trap design, but I used all new PVC from the main trunk forward.

Now, I'm ready to install the Oatey brass no-caulk drain to the pan and the drain pipe. The Oatey instructions are dismal, so I'm wondering:

1.) Should I use a bead of silicone caulk between the top flange of the drain and the top surface of the shower pan? The "instructions" call for it, so I bought some GE Silicone II Bath and Kitchen caulk; wondering what the experts think...

2.) What kind of wrench do you use on the drain flange bottom nut? While the PVC bodied no-caulks have a large plastic hex, the brass nut simply has four lugs. I think a big pipe wrench will work - and also: how tight is tight enough? I won't have access after the pan & wall tile re-install without cutting through the kitchen ceiling below; I'd like to get this correct the first time.

3.) Finally, I'm thinking that I will simply use a large square-shank screwdriver and a small crescent wrench with the flat "wrench" piece to tighten the no-caulk gland to the pipe. Again, how tight? Also, does it make sense to lubricate the rubber gland before tightening? What lube would you use?

I know, I'm full of questions... :)

Thanks in advance for your answers. I'm a mechanical engineer by training, but I'm just a bit out of my league on this job.

Happy New Year!

-don

Hi Don,

(1) We use plumbers putty between the lip of the drain and the base of the shower pan but if the instructions call for silicon jel that's what I'd use. A small ring around the lip and clean the excess off immediately after tightening.

(2) A 14" pipe wrench should give you purchase, but use anything that works. Tighten it until the caulk squeezes out and then put some muscle behind it and snug it tight.

(3) The neoprene gasket will go next to the bottom of the pan and fiber washer under it to prevent binding when you tighten the nut. The neoprene gasket does not have to be lubed.

Congratulations on taking on a major plumbing project. Tom

Speedball:

My humblest apologies for not responding sooner - I headed to Des Moines on the 4th for work and encountered 16" of snow... what fun!

I really appreciate your rapid response; you've helped a lot... thanks so much for your assistance. I'll let you know how it goes when I get back home.

Temporarily in Austin, TX,

-don strimbu

There is a tool from www.bulldogdraintool.com that works great with no caulk shower drains.