Mechanic replaced my old throttle body with a lightly used throttle body. ALso installed a new O2 sensor. ECU is still throwing an error 7 & 15 and the car continues to stall at lights and sputter in 1st & 2nd gear. Runs great on the highway and around town but when you stop you got to keep the motor rev'd up to keep it from stalling. Mechanic said the throttle body tested good and should have solved my stalling problem. It appears to be similar to some of the problems I've read here and I'm wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction for troubleshooting. Thanks!

1. Your main problem is that you need to install a new igniter. Be sure and coat the back of it with silicone grease, before installation.

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

2. If the condition doesn't go completely away, replace the Throttle Position (TP) Sensor.

If you plan on keeping the car, this would be a good time to replace the coil and rotor.

Well, I took your advice and ran to AutoZone to purchase the igniter. I let the AutoZone guy talk me out of it though as he suggested to check my vacuum hoses. Since the igniter was $69 and unreturnable, I thought I'd run the vacuum question by you first.

I would go back to Autozone and ask them to check your old igniter and coil for free, which they will do. I don't know what a Code 15 (Ignition Output Signal), however, has to do with vacuum hoses. So check your vacuum hoses, which I don't think is part of the problem, and then get them to test your old igniter and coil. Because of the age of your Civic, I recommend that both of them be replaced. I recommend replacing them every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. My best analysis from afar, though, is that you at least need a new igniter.

After doing whatever you are going to do, reset your computer by pulling the BACKUP fuse in the under-hood fuse box for 10 seconds or disconnecting the negative battery cable.

Good point, I'll pull it out and take it down to get test and let you know the results. The mechanic said he didn't reset the computer after replacing the throttle body. I checked the codes tonight and it is still flashing the 7 and 15. Interesting thing I noticed is that the CEL no longer comes on when you turn the ignition to the on position. Is it possible the mechanic disabled this light?

I doubt that he would know how to disable it and still allow your car to start. Reset the ECM on your own and retest for any codes.

Did the mechanic set the throttle cable and idle rpm properly, after he replaced the throttle body?

I called this morning and he says they set the throttle cable and idle rpm, but he's always wishy-washy when answering questions so who knows. I did verify that he did not reset the ECM. Will it continue to flash the throttle position error (7) even after replacing the throttle body with a known good unit?

Yes, codes 7 and 15 are stored in the computer until it's reset. Just disconnect the negative battery cable for 10 seconds and clear the computer.

I went by AutoZone to pick-up a part I ordered for my 90 Prelude (VSS, go figure) anyhow I asked if they could test my igniter. The manager told me they had no way to test the igniter. Is there anyway I can test it myself once removing it from the car?

It's called a Well's Machine and most Autozone stores have them. Here's are the free services AZO advertises they can perform:

AutoZone.com | In Our Stores | Free Testing

Bench testing this component with a DMM is almost a waste of time.

I reset the ECU and verified the codes cleared. I went to take the Civic up to have it tested this morning and no sooner got down the road and it died on me. I pulled off on a side road and tried to drive in first gear and the car would bog down and die. I finally had to let it sit for a few moments and then it started up and ran fine, I drove it back home in second gear though in fear of the thing quiting on me in low RPM's. I check the ECU and now it flashes 5 (MAP Sensor) and 16 (Fuel Injector). Now more error code 15, very strange. Any ideas?

I broke down and bought the ICM, new rotor, cap, plugs and wires. Had the coil tested and it was good. Replaced everything and the ECU is now only throwing an error 5 (MAP). Going to run out to junk yard a pull a few of some civics before sheling out the $280 for a new one!

Allright, replaced the MAP sensor with a used one, also replaced the fuel filter and filled up with 93. Poured some Gumout High Mileage Fuel Treatment in the tank. No more errors and she passed emissions this morning! The thing is running great, thanks txgreasemonkey! You saved me tons of $$$ with your write-up and assitance. If your ever in Nashville, let me know ahead of time because I at least owe you dinner!

Congratulations! Glad to have been of assistance. Yes, new MAP Sensors are ridiculously expensive. Your Civic should be in great shape now. My objective is "like new" performance for 350,000 miles on my 1993 Civic. Hint: Using synthetic 5W-30 engine oil and synthetic 5W-30 sychromesh manual transmission fluid is a key part of my "game plan."

With 208,000, should I be concerned on switching to synthetic this late in the game? Will it cause any issues switching to Synthetic now?

If your engine and transmission are in good shape, not leaking, and not using oil, you should have no problem. Take the oil filler cap off and, using your finger, check for any varnish and sludge buildup on the underside of the valve cover. If you have a problem, you may want to Auto-Rx your engine first, using conventional oil. Go online and research this excellent ester-based product that does a great job of safely cleaning engines. After Auto-Rxing your engine, or if your engine doesn't need it, start using synthetic lubricants.

You use synthetics for superior performance and for preventing the big unexpected repair bill. Change engine oil and filter every 6,000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. The higher natural detergency of synthetics will help your engine or transmission stay cleaner. Synthetics also help your engine to run cooler, get better gas mileage, increase horsepower, run better in cold and hot temperatures, last longer, and help save your battery and starter motor through easier starting. If you change it yourself and follow the recommended change interval, it costs no more than conventional oil. Synthetics offer a "margin of safety" you need in life.