I have suds in the dishwasher. I have used wet/dry vac
I have used vinegar, I have used alcohol, I have used cooking oil.
All on the advice of the manufacurer and the detergent company too.
Yet suds. I have used wet /dry vac


The repariman has not helped. I have a new one that saw light suds and he refused to run a diagnostic.. and he saw light suds because he did not wait for a few cycles to run.. finally I got him to order a part he said he ordered a control for it and a new detergent dispenser.

Yet if he and he is not acknowledging suds I now have Taken pictures of SUDS in and dated it. If he replaces parts and suds I will still have suds.
This dishwasher is 1 year old and the warranty has ran out.. the manufacturer has granted me a free service call and parts.. and claims it is hard water
Yet I know there is something more to this issue.

Have repeatedly hand washed my dishes and still washing them trying to get out cascade and the order. I know it is not cascade. It is something else that is causing this...

Can anyone help with this? I have to use the appliance manufacturer's repair people and I have had several and they have not listened to me..
And am wondering if my dishes are safe to use ? I am throwing all the rubbermade out because it reaks of cascade
Also.. besides wet/dry vac and the other things I have used that seem to help and then it does not help. I have ran this dishwaser with the afore mentioned methods at lest 50 times or more and soap. When it starts looking clear and I put more of any of the afore mentioned products in it to make sure it is allright
I again get more soap

Quote:

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Originally Posted by july27

i have suds in the dishwasher. I have used wet/dry vac
i have used vinegar, i have used alcohol, i have used cooking oil.
all on the advice of the manufacurer and the detergent company too.
yet suds. I have used wet /dry vac


the repariman has not helped. I have a new one that saw light suds and he refused to run a diagnostic.. and he saw light suds because he did not wait for a few cycles to run.. finally i got him to order a part he said he ordered a control for it and a new detergent dispenser.

yet if he and he is not acknowledging suds I now have Taken pictures of SUDS in and dated it. if he replaces parts and suds i will still have suds.
this dishwasher is 1 year old and the warranty has ran out.. the manufacturer has granted me a free service call and parts..and claims it is hard water
yet i know there is something more to this issue.

have repeatedly hand washed my dishes and still washing them trying to get out cascade and the order. i know it is not cascade. It is something else that is causing this...

can anyone help with this?? I have to use the appliance manufacturer's repair people and i have had several and they have not listened to me..
and am wondering if my dishes are safe to use ? i am throwing all the rubbermade out because it reaks of cascade
also.. besides wet/dry vac and the other things i have used that seem to help and then it does not help. i have ran this dishwaser with the afore mentioned methods at lest 50 times or more and soap. when it starts looking clear and i put more of any of the afore mentioned products in it to make sure it is allright
i again get more soap

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Make sure the water is hot enough

Make sure the unit drains properly... the drain hose could be not routed properly,making the sink water(and soap) drain back into the dishwasher(it needs to be looped or air gap or 'up high'under the sink)

Try using a solid packet cube of detergent... see if it dissolves at the end of cycle

See if your neighbor has any trouble with hard water

And what model is this unit?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by joey4029

make sure the water is hot enough

make sure the unit drains properly...the drain hose could be not routed properly,making the sink water(and soap) drain back into the dishwasher(it needs to be looped or air gap or 'up high'under the sink)

try using a solid packet cube of detergent ...see if it dissolves at the end of cycle

see if your neighbor has any trouble with hard water
and make sure the unit is empty in the bottom when finished(a bad/weak drain pump)
and what model is this unit?

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Let us all know

Neighbor seems to think theirs is OK but says it runs too long
Other neighbor says they cannot close the door on theirs well and it will not clean
I know why it was not leveled when installed
Same thing happened to me with this new house and my thoughts were that the non leveling may have caused something.. suds or blockage
It is new house new dishwasher a little over 1 yr old
Afraid to use packet at this point since I have so much soap already
Felt the drain tube or what I think is the drain tube during a run of dishwasher again with no soap put in it and the part of the drain tube is warm but the part of the drain tube to the garbage disposal just feels normal not hot, not cold.

Is the dishwasher empty of water at the beginning of a new dirty dish load?I'm thinking it either isn't draining,or it is getting soapy (and easily sudsy)backwater from the sink
The unit must be empty of all water when done working
Ask your water supplier if you are in a known hard water area.Truly hard water could affect the spray jets and drain pump/fill valve by clogging them with scale.
You said that you tried vinegar,
But,go and buy a bottle of "CLR" at a hardware store and follow the directions
To clean out the inside working parts(run a cycle with CLR and no dishes or soap)
I'll check back with you


Is there a sludge of soap in it?

And be positive you are using dishwasher soap,not dish soap... I know this sounds funny,but we cannot overlook anything

Why would a repairman order a part when there is no indication that you need the part? That makes no sense at all because he would have had to run tests to see what is wrong; however, I doubt you need anything but cleaning it out with CLR and I would install an air gap (Available at: Buy Design House 522961 Dishwasher Air Gap - Oil Rubbed Bronze | MainFaucet). This will prevent any backflow problems which can keep your dishwasher from draining properly. You should also check out the filter before you do anything and check the drain and pump. Look at these: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/8010163/Dis...ol-Kenmore.zip

I have no idea this is the 4th repair visit 3 by some other company and 1 here..
Because they refuse to listen to me
Now I took pictures
I was just about to pull the drain hose out and run the dish washer cycle with a bucket under it but someone told me it was OK because it looped...
I simply do not know what to do and when ever that part comes in I will try again to tell him it is no good putting in new control part and dispenser when I am getting soap in the dishwasher without getting the soap out

And I wash them by hand over and over and see no excess soap and then put in dishwasher and soap

Am going now to re wash my dishes a g a I n

Quote:

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Originally Posted by drtom4444

Why would a repairman order a part when there is no indication that you need the part? That makes no sense at all because he would have had to run tests to see what is wrong; however, I doubt you need anything but cleaning it out with CLR and I would install an air gap (Available at: Buy Design House 522961 Dishwasher Air Gap - Oil Rubbed Bronze | MainFaucet). This will prevent any backflow problems which can keep your dishwasher from draining properly. You should also check out the filter before you do anything and check the drain and pump. Look at these: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/8010163/Dis...ol-Kenmore.zip

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What meter?? He refused to check anything with diagnostic and I have to use fridigare's repair people

I have a fridigare the cheapest dishwasher they make not whirlpool or kenmore

Buy a volt/ohm meter from Radio Shack or Home Depot. Any good digital meter will work. It does not matter what brand you have. You have to test all of them with a meter.

I am having a similar problem with my kitchen faucet and my dishwasher. When I use my faucet I get suds coming from it and it fizzles, smells of chemicals and then dissapates. After several months, my 4th plumber told me that he believed the hot water heater anode rod was bad. I replaced my hot water heater yesterday. After examining the magnesium rod, it was partially gone and very corroded. I am still getting the soapy water but my plumber believes it will clear up. Check this out on internet regarding the rods. It was identical to the problem I am experiencing. I am hopeful that eventually the line will be free of this corrosion and my water will return to its former state. I have very hard water and apparently this can corrode the rod faster. Good luck - I know what you are going through.

You need a water softener/filter to get rid of the problem. You will need a water test to see what the impurities are and fix the problem. The symptoms you gave me do not indicate that the problem comes solely from hard water. Are you near an old dump? You may not know about it because they tend to hide info about old dumps. I was near an old dump and the water smelled like ether. You may have to look into old county records or find an old timer who can tell you. There could also have been toxic wastes dumped where it got into the aquifer several miles upstream. In Florida we have underground rivers that pop up for a while and go back underground in limestone caves. The water is so clear it seems like you are floating on air when you are in the water. You can see the bottom at 100 feet depths. Where are you located?

I live in upstate NY. My plumber showed me the rod - it definitely was corroded. I have been running my water and it actually appears to be better. I have city water and they have tested it when it first happened and they found nothing. Anode rods can cause the water to have a horrific odor. I am hopeful that this new heater will resolve my issue. Thanks for your input

The anode rod is a more reactive metal meant to corrode faster than the other metals that are bonded electrically with the metals in the water heater. See: http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://images.tutorvista.com/content/metals-non-metals/metals-reactivity-series.jpeg&imgrefurl=http://www.tutorvista.com/content/science/science-ii/metals-non-metals/reconcept-series-metals.php&h=371&w=253&sz=17&tbnid=yW6LlTgWWjsh1M: &tbnh=90&tbnw=61&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dreactivity%2Bof%2Bmetals%2Bchart%26tb m%3Disch%26tbo%3Du&zoom=1&q=reactivity+of+metals+c hart&usg=__ChgL7B0mUDOvh9lyMN7zKgKR1H4=&docid=gppI iTB2Rza8UM&sa=X&ei=rMs2UN-UGIb-8ASxtIGAAw&ved=0CD0Q9QEwBA&dur=81
When different metals are bonded together galvanic action occurs that produces an electrical current and corrosion on the most reactive metal which becomes the anode. Front loading washing machines were built that had an aluminum spider gear on a stainless steel tub that corroded away in six months. See chart:

Did you ever get your problem resolved and if you did how was it resolved. I am having a problem with suds in my kitchen faucet - I also have a dishwasher. I just replaced the water heater because of a bad rod. When I stop using the water for an extended period, suds reappear. I have been told that everything is drained properly by 4 plumbers.

Kooolkat, where do you live? What is the water like? When you have a bad rod in a water heater just get a new rod, unless more is damaged. You may need a water softener/filter.

We had the same problem with our KitchenAid dishwasher. We put CLR in both soap dispensers and ran it. Success! Thank you Joey4029!