My refrigerator/freezer is not cooling the way it usto. Got up this morning and found water on the floor. It's only cooling about 56 deg. On the freezer side and 60 on the fridge side. I checked the coils in the lower back that was a bit dirty and cleaned them and the compresor is kind of hot but I noticed that when it turns on it only runs for about 7 to 8 seconds then clicks off. I checked all the fans and they are all running. I opened the freeser panel to check the condenser and its clean with no ice but it feels cool when touched. I turned the power button off then on again to see if it resets anything and no change in temp. I also unpluged it for a while and plugged it on again and no change. This is a side by side model # GLHS67SEPB0 with digital display . I checked all the harnesses and unpluged them one by one and plugged them back on just in case it was a loose connection and no change. I had this fridge for almost 5 years being new and it has no warrantee. Can someone please help me with finding out what to check next. Thanks

Is the condenser fan running? If you removed the back to clean it did you replace it? Some refrigerators will not route the air through the coils unless the cover is in place. You need to wash out coils to get them clean and you should let it cool all the way down before re-starting it. Make sure the condenser fan is working. It sounds like air is not going through the coils for some reason.

Yes the fan is running. I had the fridge off overnight to let everything cool down. I put the rear cover back on and plugged the fridge back on,the compressor clicked and started running for about 6 seconds and the starter clicked back off while the fan is still running. It keeps doing this and then turns back on a few minuted later and does the same thing over and over. The compresser was cold after it sat off overnight and after plugging the fridge it started to get warm. The condenser coils just started to warm up after the compressor keeped turning on and off and the evaporator after a few minutes started to get cold again. For some reason the compressor doesn't stay on long enouth and keeps turning off.
I do want to mention that after all this I took the run capacitor off the starter to see if the compresser turns on and it did turn on and it did the same thing. It didn't make any difference with the run capacitor off. Also almost every time the starter clicks when he compressor turns off I see a small spark when the lights are off in the kitchen. Is a very small spark between the compressor and the starter terminal. I don't know if this is normal but I just wanted to mention it in case. How do you test the starer and the run capacitor to see if they work and is there a way to buypass it to see if the compressor stays on longer? Thanks for your help.

You have a tight compressor or a grounded compressor. Unplug everything from the compressor terminals and check the resistance with an ohm meter. Check each terminal to ground-that means one lead on a terminal and one on a copper line. If you read anything the compressor is bad. Then read all terminals. The highest reading will be between start and run, next is start and common, and lowest is common to run. If any reading is open then the compressor is bad. Example: Start to run=10 ohms, Start to common= 6 ohms, and common to run= 4 ohms. Most of the time the top terminal is common and the overload is plugged onto it. After checking it out go to an HVAC parts house and buy a universal hard start kit with a start capacitor. If you have a run capacitor take it in and you can get a replacement that can be wired from start to run with some terminals and wire. Get a kit that is for compressors from 1/5 to 1/2 HP. Wire it up and this should cure the problem. As for the spark, it's normal to have a spark from the contacts on the start relay, but not to ground. The relay sounds like it's bad. Here is a manual: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/8010163/Com...ata_Manual.pdf

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Originally Posted by drtom4444

You have a tight compressor or a grounded compressor. Unplug everything from the compressor terminals and check the resistance with an ohm meter. Check each terminal to ground-that means one lead on a terminal and one on a copper line. If you read anything the compressor is bad. Then read all terminals. The highest reading will be between start and run, next is start and common, and lowest is common to run. If any reading is open then the compressor is bad. Example: Start to run=10 ohms, Start to common= 6 ohms, and common to run= 4 ohms. Most of the time the top terminal is common and the overload is plugged onto it. After checking it out go to an HVAC parts house and buy a universal hard start kit with a start capacitor. If you have a run capacitor take it in and you can get a replacement that can be wired from start to run with some terminals and wire. Get a kit that is for compressors from 1/5 to 1/2 HP. Wire it up and this should cure the problem. As for the spark, it's normal to have a spark from the contacts on the start relay, but not to ground. The relay sounds like it's bad. Here is a manual: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/8010163/Com...ata_Manual.pdf

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Ok this is what I did. I searched and found out what to do. I had already did just what you told me to do. I checked the terminals with the meter and had 10 ohm s on start to run, 6 ohms and 4 ohms on the run and start with the common terminals. What I also did that I now regret... was to jump start the compressor directly using the plug that connects to the starter and got it to run without using any capacitor. The compressor was running fine the freezer was getting cold the fridge was also starting to cool also. So I let it run for a few hours and it was getting late (around past 12pm at night)so without thinking I lie down in bed and I fell asleep. When I woke up it was 4 am and I went to check right away and the fan was running on the fridge but not the compressor. So I was like oh no... I checked the current on the plug hopping maybe the fridge somehow cut off the power on the plug. Well that was not the case. I checked it and it was reading 120 ac volts like it should so I now realized I just killed the compressor. So I checked the terminals with the ground with the multimeter and now I find that there's a short. So now I don't know what to do. So I'm guessing maybe because I didn't put a cap on the compressor the thing must of overheated. I'm I correct?
Anyway If there's anything else I can do to save this refrigerator and get it running again without breaking the bank please let me know what are my options. I checked to see how much a refrigerator like this one cost and they are almost twice as much of what this one cost me 5 years ago and they look a lot cheaper made. Now they're using a lot of thin metal grate for shelfs instead of glass like mines has. Thanks.

If the compressor now reads from a terminal to ground then all you can do is change the compressor. In order to fix a burn out you have to install a high quality Sporlan or Alco suction line dryer and a liquid line line dryer of one of those brands, or similar. You can get a good compressor for about $150 (1/3 hp) and the dryers and R-134a + silver (59% is the only kind to use on the compressor.) for about $60. Then you have labor. When you ran it with no run capacitor you ran way too many amps. Some small compressors have run capacitors to help with the highly inefficient R-134a as that gas takes 50% more energy to run. We need to lobby for the repeal of the Montreal Protocol banning the efficient gases like R-12, 22, and 502 plus some more. All of the good gases got banned on a stupid theory that will not hold water. Look it up. Compressors using R-134a do not last as long, either. Not in your home or your car where it costs you 3-7 miles per gallon more than R-12. All it takes is a simple error to kill an R-134a compressor or one of the new R-410 AC units that also use 50% more energy.

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Originally Posted by drtom4444

If the compressor now reads from a terminal to ground then all you can do is change the compressor. In order to fix a burn out you have to install a high quality Sporlan or Alco suction line dryer and a liquid line line dryer of one of those brands, or similar. You can get a good compressor for about $150 (1/3 hp) and the dryers and R-134a + silver (59% is the only kind to use on the compressor.) for about $60. Then you have labor. When you ran it with no run capacitor you ran way too many amps. Some small compressors have run capacitors to help with the highly inefficient R-134a as that gas takes 50% more energy to run. We need to lobby for the repeal of the Montreal Protocol banning the efficient gases like R-12, 22, and 502 plus some more. All of the good gases got banned on a stupid theory that will not hold water. Look it up. Compressors using R-134a do not last as long, either. Not in your home or your car where it costs you 3-7 miles per gallon more than R-12. All it takes is a simple error to kill an R-134a compressor or one of the new R-410 AC units that also use 50% more energy.

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Can a refrigerator be converted with another type of gas like for example r-12? What will it take to convert it and will it be worth doing?
I just got a quote from a repair man to fix the fridge for $300. + tax with a new compressor. Is that a good price or should I keep shopping around? He told me he has the part for my model fridge in stock.

You cannot find R-12 any more. The liberals made sure of that until the laws are repealed, which should be done. Write your congressmen and senators (if they are republicans.). $300 is an excellent price.

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Originally Posted by drtom4444

You cannot find R-12 any more. The liberals made sure of that until the laws are repealed, which should be done. Write your congressmen and senators (if they are republicans.). $300 is an excellent price.

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I also asked them what's the warranty and he told me 1 year on parts and 3 month labor for the repair.
I have a question?
Have you heard of this service plan that Sears have called Service Smart Agreement? I chat with the guy at their Sears online page and he told me that for $274.99 I can get this service plan and they will send a tech over to check my refrigerator and it covers repairs on each call for up to $500. Including parts and labor and this coverage I can still use unlimited after my repair is done. He said if it cost over the $500 to repair it then I have the option to pay the extra amount and if I chose not to have it repair then they will give me a store coupon of Upto $500. For my next refrigerator I purchace with them. What I don't trust is the I get upto $500. coupon part in the agreement if I decide not to repair it if they charge me a lot more than the $500. To repair it. He said it covers everything including the door gasket, bins, shelfs.
What you think? Have you heard of anyone try this agreement before from Sears? I'm wondering because it sounds to good to be true. I told them that I wanted to read this agreement for myself and if I can read it on their page or anywhere else and the guy said they don't have that option but he told again he will email me the agreement after he processing it. I don't know, but it just don't sound right.. You will think they have a way for me to read the agreement before I pay for it.

There is no way I would buy an agreement before reading it. Sears is known for their rip offs on service agreements and I don't recommend it. You would do a lot better getting it fixed and even better if you could get a different refrigerant than R-134a, but since it was made with that gas it would be too much trouble changing it. Write your congressmen and get the Montreal Protocol repealed. Look at this: Ozone Hole Science Revisited - Hit & Run : Reason.com

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Originally Posted by drtom4444

There is no way I would buy an agreement before reading it. Sears is known for their rip offs on service agreements and I don't recommend it. You would do a lot better getting it fixed and even better if you could get a different refrigerant than R-134a, but since it was made with that gas it would be too much trouble changing it. Write your congressmen and get the Montreal Protocol repealed. Look at this: Ozone Hole Science Revisited - Hit & Run : Reason.com

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Thanks for the advice on the service agreement. That's what I was also thinking. I did read some really bad complaints about Sears service fron unhappy customers.
What other gas is still available out there besides R-134a that you would recommend that to use to convert this refrigerator that will make it more efficient and a longer lasting unit without braking the bank and be worth doing? I will need to know what parts if any would be needed to change my current refrigerators setup. What will it take to do this?

The other gas is called Hotshot and it's a substitute for R-12, however, since your refrigerator was already built for 134a I would think that it would be best not to change it unless you are using a different compressor and shorten the cap tube a couple of inches. It is doubtful that someone doing refrigerator repair would have the training to do this. On a Sub-Zero or a commercial unit there would be a great deal of advantage to using Hot Shot or another substitute like R-b276 gas, but you need a license to buy it. The easiest thing to do would be to stay with R-134a until you can find a used Sub-Zero or a good R-12 refrigerator. Hopefully, we can get the laws repealed if we get enough republicans in office and enough people writing their congressmen. People should be tired of high gas and electric costs due to these new gases by now.

Hey DRTom444 thanks for all your advice I hope these laws will be changed and we can get our gases back and make life easier for all of us. I will take the time to call my congressman and hope they do something. We were talking here about maybe just getting a new refrigerator since the broken one is black and we were thinking of maybe getting everything in stainless steel when we remodel our kitchen. I will fix the black one still and keep it for a backup since it still looks new and probably put it in my workshop. But if I do buy a new stainless what brand and model will you recommend and what brand or model should I stay away from? Any input will help.
Thanks again for your help and all the advice.

Stay away from the ones that have a lot of electronics on them and get one that is frost-free and has a simple defrost timer. Sub-Zero is the best because it's made like a commercial refrigerator. The older ones are better than the new ones, just make sure to clean the coils regularly. The Sub-Zero refrigerators have the condensing unit on the top and you just remove the front cover by lifting it up and clean the coils. They are very simple and very dependable. If something goes out you can fix it very easily, too. Here is a book on one: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/8010163/Sub...frigerator.pdf
If I can help you in any way feel free to drop me an email. I do computer software work and build and design computers, and have a huge library of things to help you out.