Hello,
I have a whirlpool washer LSR8233EQ1. After the cycles are complete, the clothes are too wet to put into the dryer. Often there is some water at the bottom of the tub. When trying to diagnose the problem, I see that the washer spins while draining. Is this normal for my model? Could this be the problem?

It should spin when draining, question is, does it spin very fast?

Is the drain hose clogged? Is there excess lint in the drain hose? Is the pump filled with lint?

Is the drain hose obstructed? How is the drain hose connected to the drain line - is there an air gap around the hose (like it should have), or is it taped or clamped onto the drain line? If so, is the drain line clogged?

Stew

Thanks for your quick response. Seems to be spinning fast enough. I haven't found any lint or blockages in the hoses, the pump or between the tub and liner. THe pump seems to be o.k. - the wheel turns.
Should the tub spin freely when it's off? It does not.
Any ideas?

As it drains, it should start spinning slowly, then speed up as it drains; the final portion of the spin cycle is very fast. Essentially, the spinning tub wrings out the clothes using centrifugal force.

With the water remaining in the bottom of the tub, it would appear that it is: a) not spinning long enough, or b) there is something preventing all the water from getting out in the time allotted by the timer to perform this task.

I am not familiar with the model you have, so I am speaking in general. It is unlikely the timer is "too fast". So, for the unit to actually stop spinning too soon, it would have to be a circumstance wherein the motor is overheating and stopping due to this condition, making the spin cycle too short. This, too is unlikely. This can be confirmed if, right after it stops, you reset the timer to spin and it restarts immediately.

Therefore, it is more likely there is an as yet unseen obstruction, or something impeding the spinning tub, or both. You may have to open the top of the case (do you know how to do this?), split the inner tub so you can more closely inspect the space in between inner and outer tubs. Socks love this space...

Stew

I don't know how to open the case. Is it hard?

UNPLUG THE WASHING MACHINE FIRST.

This is one of those "I wish I was looking at it questions"...

Some washing machines have two clips under the top; flashlight, look in the crack between the front and the top.

If they are there, Then insert a thin putty knife into the crack between the top and the front about an inch from the side. Push in slightly, there is a spring clip that you can push in about 1/4" or less. This will release the top; you'll have to push in while sort of lifting a bit. Do one side at a time, then you can tilt up the top, it will lift and tilt back at the same time.

If not, you have to go in from the back and unscrew the top from the case... again, flashlight does wonders.

Maybe somebody else on here is familiar w/ your model number and can tell you which way is THE was for yours.

Stew

Thanks Stew.

I got it all apart. Thought I'd get lucky and find a sock somewhere but didn't.

The outer tub is clear plastic, easy to see through. I also took off the plastic rim along the top between inner and outer tub-- again, no socks or anything.

The agitator seems a little wobbly. Should it wiggle at all?

Also, the tub does not spin freely. I can move it by hand, but should it spin easily?

Finally, if the washer was not exactly level would it affect how thoroughly it spins or drains?

Agitator should have no effect on draining, might be OK to wiggle a little bit.

You're moving the transmission, it doesn't have to spin freely.

Level doesn't affect draining, may affect "walking".

Is the pump clear? Can you see if something's in there?

Stew

The pump looks okay. I took it off the shaft and looked in it. I even spun the wheel around and could see nothing inside.

Anything else I should try? Should I buy a new pump? Motor? New washer?

Thanks again for all your help.

If the tub is clear, hoses are clear, and pump is clear, then we've got a spinning problem. Anything under the agitator?

No belts on that machine, clutch/brake problems... ewww.

Stew

Is the machine in a basement location? We have been having problems with new Kenmore washers, which are manufactured by Whirlpool. Same problem on a brand new machine, the tech that came out said that although they say they can drain up to 96 inches into a standpipe, they cannot pump that high. First one went back, new model suggested by Sears came and same problem, specially on permanent press cycle. We are waiting for the tech to declare the second machine unusable in a basement setting, meanwhile have no machine to use. Tech says Whirlpool is aware of this problem and is working on a fix, but they shouldn't continue to sell the machines until they are fixed and state that they are for groundfloor use only. Does anyone know a machine we can get that can successfully pump into a standpipe approximately 85" up?

Good point - there's another thread on here about that exact question. I didn't put 2 and 2 together on that angle here.

Can I resurrect this thread 5 years later? I will also start a new thread, I hope this's OK...

My wife and I own a small apt complex w 3 washers and 3 dryers. We bought them new 7-8 years ago, and are the push button coin operated top load models. Manufactured by Whirlpool.

One of them recently had a complaint that it was shaking or wobbling excessively. I removed the front cover, and all seemed in place. I verified the sliding blocks, the 3 springs in place. I even removed the front cover of the adjoining machine to compare them. All seemed fine... I then washed a medium load of shop towels, they came out normal damp, and I removed the "out of order tag".

A month or so later, one of our good tenants mentioned her clothes were soaking wet, so I wonder if the 1st prob was just overloading/unbalanced, or if the machine isn't draining/spinning properly?

I have read a couple of posts regarding a clutch lining. I've had minimal clothes machine experience, and the local repair shop mentioned a rubber coupler. I have replaced one of these on our machine at home, but from my recollections, this machine doesn't have this type of connection. I'll have to pull the cover and take some pix for this forum.

Moving along, I mentioned to my wife that maybe it's time to sell these machines and upgrade to modern front loaders to save water. We pay for every drop, and even though these don't get too much use, why wait till they're troublesome and rusty?

We collect around $300-400 per month based on $1.50 per load on the wash and dry machines, so that translates to $75 per machine, (the 2 closer ones get more use, this's one of those), so the $6,000 they cost was paid off a few years ago.

I'm not impressed with these machines as the dryer had a few problems when new due to careless assembly, and one of the washers consistently left the tub half filled, even after numerous parts were repaired under warranty. After a year, Whirlpool "scrapped" the machine and gave us a new one. I saved a number of parts from it before it was hauled away.

These machines replaced Maytags that were rented, and those always seemed to have electronic probs, and we made little of the money collected and had to wait a week or two until the tech would show up to replace the circuit board. Thus we bot these non-electronic machines. The only downside is that the tenants couldn't add coins to increase the wash or dry time during the cycle.

I don't imagine there are any "manual" machines available any longer... Recommendations?