Ask Me Help Desk - Do I have to remove Rotten Wood?

I have a rot problem where a deck is bolted to the end joist. The rot goes right through the joist. It is impossible to remove the section of joist without removing the deck and this is just not possible. Does all the rotten would need to be removed? If the water leak is eliminated, will it continue to rot?

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonny rotten

I have a rot problem where a deck is bolted to the end joist. The rot goes right through the joist. It is impossible to remove the section of joist without removing the deck and this is just not possible. does all the rotten would need to be removed? If the water leak is eliminated, will it continue to rot?

Well, what's better, someone getting injured or killed when the deck collapses and sues you?

Rotted is rotted... its structural and has to be replaced. There is no shortcut.

My question is will the rot continue if the water source is fixed, Can I do a partial replacement? I remember hearing rot spreads like cancer if you don't completely cut it out. Not sure how true that is. Hoping for a definitive answer.
I was thinking of cutting out the top 5.5" and scabbing in a 2x6 with epoxy. The inside ceiling joist is mostly okay just about 3/4" at the top about 8" long.
Would you remove a section of the deck wall plate? Seems like the only easy solution. Screw it back in? Perhaps add some joining plates after?
Thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonny rotten

My question is will the rot continue if the water source is fixed, Can I do a partial replacement? I remember hearing rot spreads like cancer if you don't completely cut it out. Not sure how true that is. Hoping for a definitive answer.
I was thinking of cutting out the top 5.5" and scabbing in a 2x6 with epoxy. The inside ceiling joist is mostly okay just about 3/4" at the top about 8" long.
Would you remove a section of the deck wall plate? Seems like the only easy solution. Screw it back in? perhaps add some joining plates after?
Thanks

Reason #2 to replace.. not cover up. You will have created a PRIME haven for both Carpenter ants and Termites. Not to mention certain types of mold and fungus.

Personally, it it was MY house... I do it right or not at all. Half measures always have a way of coming back and biting you in the butt when you aren't looking. And usually end up costing you far more in the long run. If you do it for someone else... you might be liable if a failure even years down the road occurs and its discovered you took a shortcut.

Someone else will have to endorse something like that... I personally am opposed to it.

Its hard for us to know the situation without seeing it. If your rot section is only as big as you describe then you should be able to rip it out and replace it with some wood repair epoxy. Its usually necessary to use Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer prior to the actual epoxy. Rot Doctor is a good website worth checking out.

Just because part of a board is rotten, doesn't mean the whole thing needs to be replaced. You may need to go through extreme lengths to see how far the rot goes and the extent is what decides replacement

Thanks for the input, I am in the middle of a huge renovation on my own house and keep looking for the end in sight. (Need to get a real job that pays)
When taking out a rotted kickplate under a second floor rear entrance door above the second floor deck the deeper I dug in the deeper the rot went. I had already removed the clapboard around the door and about 8 pieces under the deck down to the door below it (three family rental). I knew in the back of my mind I opened a big can of worms and their was no simple way out. But I guess I needed to hear it from someone else.

I cut out 80" of the deck plate and left 4 joists hanging from the floor boards. I cut out the rotted sheathing and found the rotting joist was just the tip of the iceberg. Both the top plates of the wall below are rotted and the top of the studs below. Luckily the rot only went less then 1 1/2" deep. Because there is no way to replace them (the rear doors are right next to the jack studs that go to the roof peak 38' up

I cut out the rotted portion of the end joist exposing the second joist and used a sawzall to cut the top plates flush with it. (what a pain in the @$$) Giving me a 2x depth. Tomorrow I will gorilla glue and nail a 2x ripped to 3" to the double top plate and replace the joist above. Then I will replace the cripples below. I decided the gorilla glue will add some strength as well as fill any voids. Then I can wrap this up and put it back together again.
The major lesson here is I should have never used waferboard when I built this place 15 years ago. Penny wise and pound foolish. One little leak and the waferboard becomes a sponge. All of this rot was caused by the waferboard. If I had used plywood here originally it most likely would have been limited to a rotted kickplate.
Thanks again for being a voice of reason. I think we have all learned at one point or another its always faster and easier to just do it right, right now.