I have a 1989 Honda civic LX, 1.5, manual transmission, while driving about two weeks ago it just stalled. The car starts, it sounds a little like it might be misfiring, once in first its having a very hard time going. After it gets going and goes into second and into third it will continue to go, but when it slows down or comes to a stop it stalls again and doesn't want to go, but will start. I have changed the pcv valve, checked hoses, changed fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs and cables, gaskets. I checked fuel pressure, changed distributer cap and rotor, main relay is fine. At first I was getting a code 16, after messing with the coolant temperature sensor the code went away but it still won't start. I also took out the fuel pressure regulator, and looked at the fuel injectors. I can't tell if the injectors are bad, but they looked pretty clean? I am at a loss as to what else to do? It still starts just fine, but will not want to go? When I first checked the spark plugs the resistance on the wires wasn't bad, yesterday one of the wires wasn't testing for resistance at all so I replaced them. The new spark plugs are also very dirty already, and I haven't drove the car, but started it 20-30 times between changing and testing things? I also cleaned out the air intake valve? Please please help? I am going to lose my job if I can't get it fixed, and obviously don't have means for a mechanic...

I would replace the Ignition Control Module and coil. Everything about your description screams poor ignition spark, from misfirings and stalling, to poor performance, to the condition of the new plugs. This will likely solve your problem.

Ignition Control Module (ICM or Igniter) and Coil Replacement

Bench testing ICMs and coils is virtually useless. It does not come close to simulating the extreme heat that often causes these components to fail. I recommend replacing these critical and problematic components every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.


1. Disconnect negative battery cable, recording any radio codes first.

2. Remove hex-head machine screws (3), securing distributor cap to housing, using an 8mm nut driver.

3. Move distributor cap and wires off to the side.

4. Remove machine screw securing rotor to shaft, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver. A 1/4-inch drive magnetic bit holder (e.g. Wiha 52650) with a #2 Phillips head bit works really well. It may be necessary to "hit" the starter once or twice, in order to rotate rotor for access to mounting screw.

5. Remove rotor and leak cover.

6. Unfasten ICM wires, remove coil mounting screws (on distributors with a coil inside), and set coil aside. Trick: Removing the coil first, on distributors with a coil inside, improves access to the ICM.

7. Remove both screws securing heat sink to housing, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver.

8. Remove heat sink from distributor and unfasten both screws mounting ICM to heat sink, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver.

9. Clean connections with #240 abrasive cloth or steel wool.

10. Coat the back of the new ICM (or old ICM, if reusing) with a thin, even coat of silicone heat transfer compound. This special silicone grease increases heat transfer to the heat sink. Failure to apply silicone heat transfer compound will cause the ICM to quickly fail. Arctic Silver 5 is recommended by an AMHD member, which is available at Radio Shack.

If the ICM and the heat sink are simply placed together, the small air gaps (insulator) that naturally exist between them will inhibit heat transfer. By filling these gaps, the compound allows a direct path through which heat can travel. Failure to apply this grease is one reason why some Hondas suddenly die. Attention to detail makes a big difference with modern day electronics.

11. Mount ICM to heat sink and reinstall ICM, ICM terminal wires, coil, coil wires, leak cover, rotor, and distributor cap. Ensure female ICM connectors fit snugly--crimp with pliers, if necessary.


Conceptually, the ICM is a large output transistor (switch) controlling current through the primary coil. ICMs replace points and condenser in older vehicles. In the primary coil, current builds to 5 to 12 amps, generating lots of heat (due to inductance). Then, the ECM controls when the ICM "switches off" current to the primary coil, causing amperage to go to zero. When this happens, 12 to 14 volts in the primary coil is "stepped-up" to 30,000 volts in the secondary coil. This process creates a "type" of alternating current required for the coil (step-up transformer) to work. In a properly working ICM, timing is precisely when needed to fire each spark plug.

Bottom Line: ICMs and coils take a beating.

Note: Distributor cap contacts can oxidize or corrode, creating high secondary resistance, which can result in rotor and ICM failure, reduced mileage, CEL coming on, catalytic converter failure, or failed emissions test. The secondary ignition system will destroy the ICM and coil, if you do not properly maintain the ignition system. This means replacing the distributor cap, rotor, and spark plug wires every 60,000 miles.

WARNING: Intermittent ICM failure can allow fuel to build-up in the exhaust system. Detonation can then blow the exhaust system off the vehicle.

Afterwards, remove and fully charge the battery, which most auto parts stores will do for free.

Thank you, j forgot to mention the coil was tested for continuity and was fine? Could it just be the ICM?

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Originally Posted by 22JAM

Thank you, j forgot to mention the coil was tested for continuity and was fine? Could it just be the ICM?

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Sorry not continuity but was tested for and tested the same as a brand new one, so we did not replace it? Should we just get a new ignitor?

Yes, it could be. However, bench testing coils and ICMs is virtually useless in real life. It doesn't come close to simulating the intense heat under load.

Start with a new igniter, if funds are tight.

Thank you, you wouldn't for sure happen to know that I can just replace the igniter on a 1989 Honda Civic LX without replacing the entire distributor? I appreciate your helpa and directions, ia m going to try and replace it tonight. Please wish me luck, this has been a large project that I originally thought was just a tune up.

Yes, you can replace the igniter on your car without replacing the entire distributor. Follow my instructions and you shouldn't have any trouble. If you run into trouble, you can simply remove the distributor, place it on your workbench, and remove and replace the ICM and coil.

Just be careful not to booger up the screw heads going to the heat sink or the ICM. Again, use a precision tip #2 Phillips head screwdriver.

Distributor Replacement

At AskMeHelpDesk.com, over 50% of new aftermarket distributors for Hondas have not worked out of the box. Many of those that initially worked didn't last very long. Therefore, I only recommend genuine Honda distributor housings. It's fine to buy a Honda housing and install an aftermarket Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil, to keep the cost down. Three reasons account for the majority of Honda distributors needing replacement: orange dust, oil inside, or failed sensors.

1. Disconnect negative battery cable, after recording radio code.

2. Remove #2 Phillips head screw, securing 2-P and 8-P connector mount to the side of the distributor, using a precision screwdriver. Access is often improved if the air filter cover is removed first, using an 8mm nut driver. Separate 2-P and 8-P electrical connectors. The trick to separating these connectors is to squeeze the connector's mounting release first and remove from mount. Then, the connector will separate--do not force.

3. Mark distributor housing and bracket, for timing to be close later, using a scribe (or awl) and straight-edge.

4. Remove three hex-head machine screws, securing distributor cap to housing, using an 8mm nut driver.

5. Move distributor cap and wires off to the side.

6. Remove machine screw securing rotor to shaft, using #2 Phillips head screwdriver, and leak cover. It may be necessary to "hit" the starter once or twice, in order to rotate rotor for access to mounting screw.

7. Remove three 12mm bolts securing distributor housing to engine.

8. Remove old distributor, place on table, and remove coil, igniter, and cap seal.

9. Install old igniter, coil, leak cover, cap seal, and rotor in new distributor. Ensure female igniter terminals fit snugly--crimp with pliers, if necessary.

10. Coat O-ring with engine oil.

11. Install distributor, align timing marks on housing and bracket, and button things up.

12. Use a timing light, to precisely set idle speed and ignition timing.


Note: Due to the ingenious offset shaft, there's no way you can install the distributor incorrectly.

Doesn't make sense why the spark plugs are dirty but if its not the ignition system it could be the idle air control valve, you can take them off and spray them out with carb cleaner and when you put it back on you should notice an immediate difference when you come to a stop. It is only temporary though eventually you'll have to get a new idle air control valve

Harleyquinn09-thank you, we have done so much to the car I can't keep it straight, but we did clean out the air control valve already. It wasn't dirty. We also cleaned and replaced several hoses that we thought may be the problem. We did test all of the hoses for pressure etc. as well. But the more ideas the better so I appreciate any feedback.