Ask Me Help Desk - My 1965 Ford Fairlane Won't Start

I have a 1965 Ford Fairlane with the Original Straight 6 engine. I changes EVERYTHING and replaced it with new parts concerning components that make the car engine run. Tune-Up, The starter, alternator, ignition coil, battery wires, plugs/wires & rotor/distributor, added a conversion kit also, New Battery, New Holley Carb (1 Barrel), New Gas Line, Brakes, Shocks, Wipers, Oil Changes, New Radiator & Hoses, Everything under the hood is NEW! The car ran fine for 1 Year Drove in the Woodward Dream Cruise 2010 it was so quiet you couldn't tell it was running when standing next to it. (Had Some Speed/Power Even... lol)

The Problem started after I parked it for 7 months During the winter. I went to start it, and it ran REALLY HARD the 1st time it cranked. Then I tried to drive it, and it was put-putting real bad, so I shut the engine off. I then tried to Re-Start it, and all I got was A CLICK!! The Battery was fully charged, and it drained super fast. I took I got it Charged to full capacity tried it again, and CLICK!! Then NOTHING, No Lights, No Radio, No Start. I Then Parked it out of frustration. I Replaced the Battery twice... Same thing keeps happening... CLICK, and NO Start even with a Fully charged Battery. One of my New Battery cables was pulled out of connector by my son, I put it back together, and since then been having this problem of No Start, Clicking when trying to start, and battery Drain.

I went out the other day with a fully charged battery, I tried to start it again after about 3 weeks of no success. Then... Turned the key, CLICK!! I Still Have Lights and a Fully Charged Battery... But Nothing But A CLICK, Then No Start Still. What Could Be Wrong With This Car, Preventing It Form Starting? Please Help, it has to be something Really Simple I'm missing.

"Car (Starter Motor) Won't Crank"

. Ensure the battery is fully charged, before diagnosing starter problems.
. Test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter.
. Ensure the gearshift is in Neutral or Park (automatic transmission), or the clutch pedal is depressed (manual transmission), if the starter motor does not turn at all when the ignition switch is turned to Start.

1. If the starter motor doesn't turn, but the starter solenoid (relay) "clicks" when the ignition switch is turned to Start, the problem is with the battery, starter solenoid, or starter motor connections.

2. Disconnecting the negative battery cable first, clean battery terminals and cable connections with a battery terminal brush, No. 240 abrasive cloth, or steel wool. Also, check the battery ground cable connection to the body and engine. Apply silicone dielectric grease, when finished.

3. While the negative battery cable is disconnected, clean starter motor and starter solenoid connections. Apply silicone dielectric grease, when finished. Make sure all connections are secure. When installing the starter cable, make sure that the crimped side of the ring terminal is facing out. Reconnect the negative battery terminal last.

4. If the starter motor spins but the engine is not cranking, the overrunning clutch in the starter motor is slipping and the starter motor must be replaced. Also, the ring gear on the flywheel or drive plate may be worn.

5. If the solenoid plunger cannot be heard when the switch is actuated, the battery is bad, the fusible link is burned (circuit is open), or the solenoid is defective.

6. In order to check the solenoid, put the transmission in Park and remove the push-on connector from the solenoid “S” terminal. Connect a jumper lead (12 AWG), or preferably a remote starter switch, between the positive battery terminal and the exposed “S” terminal on the solenoid. If the starter motor now operates, the solenoid is fine and the problem is with the ignition switch, neutral start switch, or wiring. If the starter motor still does not operate, replace the solenoid.

7. If the starter motor cranks the engine slowly, ensure the battery is fully charged and all terminal connections are clean and tight. Then, check connections at the starter solenoid and battery ground. The engine will also crank slowly, if it’s partially seized or has the wrong viscosity oil in it. Synthetic engine oil allows starter motors to turn the engine over easier and faster, thus promoting starting and reducing battery drain.

Check the ignition switch for wear, pitting, or melting, after disconnecting the negative battery cable.

When you installed the new distributor, did it include new points and condenser? Did you use a timing light to set the timing?

Quote:

Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

Check the ignition switch for wear, pitting, or melting, after disconnecting the negative battery cable.

When you installed the new distributor, did it include new points and condenser? Did you use a timing light to set the timing?

The points were changed, or the conversion kit made them not have to be changed, I can't remember. The mechanic said something about, the timing ma have to be set. But the car was running great.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

"Car (Starter Motor) Won't Crank"

. Ensure the battery is fully charged, before diagnosing starter problems.
. Test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter.
. Ensure the gearshift is in Neutral or Park (automatic transmission), or the clutch pedal is depressed (manual transmission), if the starter motor does not turn at all when the ignition switch is turned to Start.

1. If the starter motor doesn't turn, but the starter solenoid (relay) "clicks" when the ignition switch is turned to Start, the problem is with the battery, starter solenoid, or starter motor connections.

2. Disconnecting the negative battery cable first, clean battery terminals and cable connections with a battery terminal brush, No. 240 abrasive cloth, or steel wool. Also, check the battery ground cable connection to the body and engine. Apply silicone dielectric grease, when finished.

3. While the negative battery cable is disconnected, clean starter motor and starter solenoid connections. Apply silicone dielectric grease, when finished. Make sure all connections are secure. When installing the starter cable, make sure that the crimped side of the ring terminal is facing out. Reconnect the negative battery terminal last.

4. If the starter motor spins but the engine is not cranking, the overrunning clutch in the starter motor is slipping and the starter motor must be replaced. Also, the ring gear on the flywheel or drive plate may be worn.

5. If the solenoid plunger cannot be heard when the switch is actuated, the battery is bad, the fusible link is burned (circuit is open), or the solenoid is defective.

6. In order to check the solenoid, put the transmission in Park and remove the push-on connector from the solenoid “S” terminal. Connect a jumper lead (12 AWG), or preferably a remote starter switch, between the positive battery terminal and the exposed “S” terminal on the solenoid. If the starter motor now operates, the solenoid is fine and the problem is with the ignition switch, neutral start switch, or wiring. If the starter motor still does not operate, replace the solenoid.

7. If the starter motor cranks the engine slowly, ensure the battery is fully charged and all terminal connections are clean and tight. Then, check connections at the starter solenoid and battery ground. The engine will also crank slowly, if it’s partially seized or has the wrong viscosity oil in it. Synthetic engine oil allows starter motors to turn the engine over easier and faster, thus promoting starting and reducing battery drain.

I'm going to try some of the tip today or tomorrow, and see if that's it. I thought it might be the battery cable, the solenoid is Brand New also. And the wires.