Does anyone know what kind of grass this is?

I need to know what type of grass it is so that I know how high it needs to be mowed. I live in Montreal, Quebec, Canada.

http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/8528/1007221f.jpg

http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/6198/1007222c.jpg

Looks like about 60% weeds right now..

3-4" is a good number however. Too low gives the weeds too much of a chance.

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Originally Posted by smoothy

Looks like about 60% weeds right now..

3-4" is a good number however. Too low gives the weeds too much of a chance.

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1. How do I get rid of the weeds (assuming you mentioned that because weeds are supposed to be in lawn).
2. Why does mowing too low give weeds a chance? Can you further elaborate on that?

Weed seeds need light to germinate. Grass cut too short gives them a favorible environment.

A perfect lawn will have no weeds and thick lush grass... I've never seen the perfect lawn yet... but that's the goal. Weed and Feed helps... but you can't use that inconjunction with overseeding at the same time.. it would prevent the new grass from germinating.

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Originally Posted by smoothy

Weed seeds need light to germinate. Grass cut too short gives them a favorible enviroment.

A perfect lawn will have no weeds and thick lush grass....I've never seen the perfect lawn yet...but that's the goal. Weed and Feed helps...but you can't use that inconjunction with overseeding at the same time..it would prevent the new grass from germinating.

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You say that weed seeds need light to germinate and thus, keeping my mowing high and frequent seems the important thing to do. But then you mention that "weed and feed" helps to get rid of weeds. I don't quite understand that part. I'm new to caring for lawn so if you wouldn't mind, please break it down for me.

And can you explain that last part again (but you can't use that in conjunction with over-seeding at the same time.. it would prevent the new grass from germinating)?

Lastly, you mentionned that 3-4 inches is the suitable length for my grass to be cut at but how do I know how high my lawnmower is? Do I need to measure where the blade touches the grass or what is an easy way to measure that the mower is at the desired height (I've never measure a lawn mower's height before).

And you told me that my grass comprises about 60% weeds so I'm guessing that'd rather bad. But other than that, from having seen the photos, can you tell me what TYPE of grass (http://www.weekendgardener.net/grass-types/main.htm) it looks like? It's always good to know.

Thanks again

There is a fertilizer product that includes a weed killer... Thats what is called Weed and Feed. Its not an actual brand name. You usually apply it in fall so it prevents new weeds from growing from seed, and it helps kill many of the weeds that don't die off every fall.

Not cutting the grass too short also helps the grass be healthier... most people cut it shorter than it should be.

Sorry but someone else will have to identify the specific type of grass you have... I lve in a much warmer climate and what grows well here won't do so well there, and vice versa...

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Originally Posted by smoothy

There is a fertilizer product that includes a weed killer....Thats what is called Weed and Feed. Its not an actual brand name. You usually apply it in fall so it prevents new weeds from growing from seed, and it helps kill many of the weeds that don't die off every fall.

Not cutting the grass too short also helps the grass be healthier...most people cut it shorter than it should be.

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OK. Where I live in Montreal, Canada we're not allowed to put chemicals on our lawn so I'd have to go to a store to buy this fertilizer. Does it have to be a specific or I can simply ask for something that will rid my lawn of weeds? And again, I think you missed the part about me asking how do I know how to measure my mower's height in relation to the 3-4 inches you recommended I cut my lawn...

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Originally Posted by Solidify

OK. Where I live in Montreal, Canada we're not allowed to put chemicals on our lawn so I'd have to go to a store to buy this fertilizer. Does it have to be a specific or I can simply ask for something that will rid my lawn of weeds? And again, I think you missed the part about me asking how do I know how to measure my mower's height in relation to the 3-4 inches you recommended I cut my lawn...

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Cut a piece of card board that high and with the mower on your driveway... and obviously NOT running... thats how high the blade should be... you adjust the height of the wheels on the mower. Some are easier to adjust than others.

Wow.. you have some whack jobs up there running things if they won't let you put any chemicals on your own lawn. YOu might have to cross the border to New York and get it... and put it down at night so the grass Nazi's don't execute you. (I'm joking there)

DO they even allow you to kill bugs or rats? Don't laugh... you can't buy rat poison in Italy... you have to have a pro do it.

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Originally Posted by smoothy

Cut a piece of card board that high and with the mower on your driveway....and obviously NOT running....thats how high the blade should be....you adjust the height of the wheels on the mower. some are easier to adjust than others.

Wow..you have some whack jobs up there running things if they won't let you put any chemicals on your own lawn. YOu might have to cross the border to New York and get it.....and put it down at night so the grass Nazi's don't execute you. (I'm joking there)

DO they even allow you to kill bugs or rats? Don't laugh....you can't buy rat poison in Italy...you have to have a pro do it.

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OK thank you for the explanation on how to measure the high of the blade on my mower. But that 3-4 inch height would only work if I mow my lawn regularly each week. Let's say I forget/don't have time to mow my lawn one week and as a result, it grows more. If I then use the 3-4 inch height I was suggested wouldn't I be taking out more than 1/3 of the leaf's height and therefor cutting too low at once? In that case, do you suggest I cut 4-5 inches, for example, and then next time gradually return to my usual 3-4 inches in height?

And as for the weed control, we can still use a weed-man here but they use specific products since the laws are tough due to the chemical's harsh reactions on the environment.

And lastly, I don't think I will be calling a weed man just yet. I went through my tools and found a very handy apparatus that I can use to get most of the weeds out manually, for now.

Herego; http://montreal-lawn.ca/img/controle_manuel.jpg

Thanks for the help. If I need anything else, I'll be sure to reply.

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Originally Posted by Solidify

OK thank you for the explanation on how to measure the high of the blade on my mower. But that 3-4 inch height would only work if I mow my lawn regularly each week. Let's say I forget/don't have time to mow my lawn one week and as a result, it grows more. If I then use the 3-4 inch height I was suggested wouldn't I be taking out more than 1/3 of the leaf's height and therefor cutting too low at once? In that case, do you suggest I cut 4-5 inches, for example, and then next time gradually return to my
usual 3-4 inches in height?

And as for the weed control, we can still use a weed-man here but they use specific products since the laws are tough due to the chemical's harsh reactions on the environment.

And lastly, I don't think I will be calling a weed man just yet. I went through my tools and found a very handy apparatus that I can use to get most of the weeds out manually, for now.

Herego; http://montreal-lawn.ca/img/controle_manuel.jpg

Thanks for the help. If I need anything else, I'll be sure to reply back.

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Personal experience... you can go straight to the 3-4 inches... grass is pretty forgiving in the spring when its wetter and cooler (when this thread was posted). During the hot dry days of the heart of summer its easier to hurt it. That actually is a good rule of thumb, but neither of us fave fantastic lawns... (I have a lot of trees and shade). But its not critical. Keeps your blades nice and sharp matters more.

You are being deceived about the so called horrific ecological damage. Reasonable use doesn't hurt anything... and if you overdue it.. you will kill the grass well before you create a superfund cleanup site, or before you create anything unsafe or unhealthy. But I understand you have to follow whatever laws the loons in government force on you.

Boy I'm glad I don't live up there. Besides those wicked winters you have.

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Originally Posted by smoothy

Personal experience....you can go straight to the 3-4 inches....grass is pretty forgiving in the spring when its wetter and cooler (when this thread was posted). During the hot dry days of the heart of summer its easier to hurt it.

You are being deceived about the so called horrific ecological damage. Reasonable use doesn't hurt anything....and if you overdue it..you will kill the grass well before you create a superfund cleanup site, or before you create anything unsafe or unhealthy. But I understand you have to follow whatever laws the loons in government force on you.

Boy I'm glad I don't live up there. Besides those wicked winters you have.

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Haha all right, straight to 3-4 inches it will be. It will be easier for me considering my mower doesn't have a lever to raise and lower the tires manually but rather, it needs to be adjusted by screwing the wheels at their new heights each time I'd like to change it.

And yes, I don't know much about the environmental effects of chemicals on lawns but my conclusions are based on the laws I'm required to follow up here, which in a sense, is quite stupid on my behalf, but nonetheless, thank you.

One more thing while I have you online. My lawn in my backyard is fine but the front lawn for my home has an incredible amount of bumps which causes two problems; (1) it makes it so that mowing is a complete hassle as the mower tosses and tumbles on and off uneven grass and secondly, (2) it makes it so that the result of my mowing is uneven (patches are cut shower that other due to uneven surfaces). Therefore, I ask what are the many ways (if there are many) that I can go about to address this issue?

For the bumps... do you have a rental equipment place. You can rent a lawn roller from... usually you fill them with water for weight, and after a few rainy days is a perfect times to roll the yard.. when the ground is soft... dry hard ground doesn't shift much.

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Originally Posted by smoothy

For the bumps...do you have a rental equipment place. you can rent a lawn roller from....usually you fill them with water for weight, and after a few rainy days is a perfect times to roll the yard..when the ground is soft...dry hard ground doesn't shift much.

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I'm sorry but I don't quite understand what you suggested I do. Once again, I'm a newbie in lawn care...

And while I have you here, I'd like to mention that I bought 'Weed B Gon' with the easy handle sprayer but it doesn't spray very far/strong which is annoying since I need to bend down and do my whole yard on my knees up close to the weeds.

I also bought a bag of 'CIL Golf Grass Seeds' so I will put that on my lawn after my weeds are gone.

A lawn roller is a big drum with a handle. The drum is usually filled with water to make it very heavy... then drained so its light enough to transport. Through sheer weight it flattens out the dirt. If you've ever watched them pave a street... thats the basic principle with the roller thing (except that one is powered and vibrates too.

Afer a few days rain the ground is soft enough to respond to a lawn roller well. Don't expect it to be perfect... but a few times a year over a couple years can make huge differences.

GO to an equipment rental place... and ask them for a LAWN ROLLER... they will know what you mean.

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/pub...Va43SheYxUdyeQ

Quote:

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Originally Posted by smoothy

A lawn roller is a big drum with a handle. the drum is usually filled with water to make it very heavy....then drained so its light enough to transport. Through sheer weight it flattens out the dirt. If you've ever watched them pave a street...thats the basic principle with the roller thing (except that one is powered and vibrates too.

Afer a few days rain the ground is soft enough to respond to a lawn roller well. Don't expect it to be perfect.....but a few times a year over a couple years can make huge differences.

GO to an equipment rental place...and ask them for a LAWN ROLLER...they will know what you mean.

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/pub...Va43SheYxUdyeQ

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That makes a lot of sense but since you say I'd be using it "a few times a year over a couple years" wouldn't that mean I'd be renting the lawn roller more than once at this rental place?

Having said that, not that it's not a good way, but are there other common ways to flatten out a lawn with bumps?

Not that doesn't require completely reseeding it and a LOT of work... that I know of.