I need to replace a valve which has been stripped. However, it has 2 threaded fittings going into it which are attached to the inline copper pipe. I am not sure if I can just use a crescent wrench to loosen the fittings to remove the valve or not. I have pictures. Anyone help?

Can you post the pics and we will see the best option for you.

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Originally Posted by relw

I need to replace a valve which has been stripped. However, it has 2 threaded fittings going into it which are attached to the inline copper pipe. I am not sure if I can just use a crescent wrench to loosen the fittings to remove the valve or not. I have pictures. Anyone help?

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Thanks! Couldn't post the pictures from my tablet computer (in fact, can't even log in) so it forced me to try a real computer. Now I see the attachment buttons.

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Originally Posted by mygirlsdad77

Can you post the pics and we will see the best option for you.

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Sorry, still learning how to use this service.

Hello Relw,

I have some instructions for you see the image, Thanks.

John

Hi, pics turned out just fine. You won't be able to simply unthread the complete valve, unless there is a union on the side I can't see. You will have to cut the copper pipe on the side with the most room and then unthread the valve. You may then thread on a new Ball valve and then sweat in a union to connect the cut pipe back together. Oh, and look closely at afaroos pic, as you may need to remove that portion from the valve body for it to clear the joist when unthreading the complete valve body. What is to the left of the valve in the above pic? Can you maybe post a pic of that, so we can see what kind of room you have to deal with? There are a couple other options if you don't feel comfy soldering, but threading a new valve on and then soldering in a union would be ideal.

If you are up to soldering, cut the copper on side with most room on it, it appears that is the left side, then heat male adapter on right side and pull whole valve and male adapter off and replace with copper to copper to copper ball valve and coupling.

Thanks guys. Sweating joints is not my forte. I'm great with wrenches and Teflon tape! I'm thinking of just dissassembling the valve and replacing the innards without removing the entire valve. I know it's the coward's way out, but it's a holiday weekend and I don't want to have to call a plumber to stop the leak from the junction. Any thoughts? Oh yes, to the left is just another 6 feet of copper leading to a T junction to indoor and outdoor faucets.

Hello Relw,

That is what I was thinking of to dissassemble and take the parts to a plumbing supply and get new ones, Thanks.

John