:( Is there any way to find people that got sick Dachshund pups from the same breeder. I mean there site says that you can talk to past buyers but you know they won't give you the names of dissatisfied buyers. I would really like to find out if others were done wrong too.

I know what you mean - the breeder may or may not disclose the people who bought pups that were sick.

You could contact your state's Veterinary Medicine Board and file a complaint there. You could contact the association that registers the dogs, such as AKC, and lodge a complaint about the breeder. If the other owners registered their dogs, the breeders name would pop up on a search. Does this dog breeder advertise in any of the dog magaziines? A letter to the editor does amazing things.

Did you sue the breeder for not living up to their promises? The pup should not have been sick. I certainly wish you the best. Is your pup well now?

Partly this might depend on where they went. Talk to your vet. If he feels it is a problem, he might quietly check around with other vets in town.

Over and over I have read about the importance of checking a breeder, but seldom see specifics on how. Of course, I don't do that. I am given healthy, well bred puppies. Of course, even sometimes the is a problem with the best bred puppies. If you travel very far, a healthy puppy can pick up a fatal disease at a rest area on the way home.

I found this written by Karen Peak: Questions to Ask A Dog Breeder:

1. What is the asking price of the puppies?

Some breeders will ask the same for pet quality and show potential puppies. Compare prices with other breeders of the same breed and if the price is considerably higher or lower do not hesitate to ask why. Do not hesitate to ask why if there is a big difference in pet and show pups.

Unless there is a visible disqualification or the puppy visibly will not be showing potential, the younger the pup the harder it is to determine show quality. A person who really knows the breed can have a good idea what pups have show POTENTIAL and what may not. Much happens while the puppy grows and that eight week show prospect may not be show potential at 9 months!

And avoid ANY breeder who charges different for males or females or who charges extra if you want a pedigree or registration. It is not that expensive to register a litter so the potential owners can individually register puppies. (Many kennel clubs like the AKC require all litters to be registered by the breeder. Then papers are sent out that are given to buyers of puppies so the owner can register them in their name).

2. What health tests have been done on BOTH parents of the litter?

Any breed should have hips (OFA or PennHip) eyes (CERF) and ideally thyroid. Then is up to you as potential buyer to know what other tests the breed you are looking at should have. The breeder should be able to show documentations of all tests. Do not blindly accept their word – some dishonest breeders will lie and say all tests have been done.

And if the breeder says there is nothing in the line so testing is not important, avoid this person as well. Some health problems are polygenetic (more than one set of genes involved – not a simple dominant/recessive). Some health problems take years to show fully or may be there but not showing outwardly. For example, some dysplastic dogs never show signs of having it and it is only diagnosed upon testing.
What temperament testing and socialization has been done?

Granted, young puppies should not leave the property due to a growing immune system; however, the breeder should expose the puppies to as many things as possible like vacuum cleaners, children, house sounds, etc. The older the puppy, the more experiences it should have. Has the breeder temperament tested and what method was used? A good breeder will help match the right personality to you. If you are a quiet family and the breeder pushes a dominant pup on you, leave. On the other hand, if you like the look of one puppy and the breeder, after interviewing you, decides it is not the right match, respect that.

3. What goals does the breeder have with the breeding program and how does the breeder go about to achieve this?

If the breeder breeds just to produce more dogs, for pets only or anything that does not go towards the bettering of the breeder's lines and the breed as a whole, go elsewhere. And if the breeder breeds for working ability first, you could end up with a handful! Look for one who breeds for companionship as well as type and working ability – unless you are looking exclusively for a working dog.

4. What does the breeder feel are the strengths and weaknesses in the breed and the breeder's program?

The breeder should be open with you about the program and where they hope to go with it. Avoid the breeder who insists there are no better dogs around then his.

5. Can you see the pedigrees of both sire and dam? Can you see at least the dam?

The sire may not be on site but the dam should be. If not, you could be dealing with a broker (one who sells dogs not bred by that person).

6. What type of contract does the breeder have for pet or show puppies (it should include a spay/neuter agreement and health guarantee)?

Do not get pressured into becoming contracted to show or breed your dog – even if you do plan to show and possibly get into breeding someday. Everything should be spelled out in the contract. And be wary of a breeder sells you a young puppy that is "definitely show quality." So much happens during growth and development – the younger the puppy; the harder it is to tell show quality. A breeder who really knows the breed can tell if a young pup has POTENTIAL but should not be guaranteeing the dog will be a show dog.

7. What does the breeder feed the puppies?

You want to try and keep the puppies on the same brand of food. If the breeder uses something you do not, gradually wean the puppy to your preferred brand. If the puppies have no boosters prior to leaving the dam, look elsewhere.

8. What inoculations have been given?

Eight-week-old puppies should have had their first set of inoculations and you should be given documentation of this. If not, go elsewhere.

9. Can you get references of previous puppy buyers?

If the breeder will not give them, go elsewhere.

10. Can you have your own vet examine the puppy before you fully commit?

You may be asked to put down a deposit but you should have the option of having your vet examine the puppy with in a couple days after purchase (always a good idea to have this done and the breeder may require it).

11. Are you active in any breed clubs (all breed or ideally breed specialty)?

Many clubs have a breeder code of ethics that they want their members to adhere to. Just being AKC registered is not a Good Housekeeping Seal of Approval. It just means the puppy was from registered parents and the breeder has taken the steps to begin the registration process for the puppies. Even pet stores can sell AKC registered pups if the miller registers the dogs. The AKC cannot police everyone professing to be a breeder so again, being and educated consumer is very important.

Use your gut instinct and do not get suckered by cute faces. Remember, this pup will be yours for the next ten years or much longer depending on breed. You should get the best possible puppy possible from the most responsible source you can find.

Many of these questions can be adapted to ask at a rescue as well. Do not hesitate to ask what is know about the background of the puppies (or adult dog), what medical care they have had and has the staff noticed anything about their temperaments that could be of concern? Ask about the adoption agreement and have it gone through carefully with you.

Here is Karen's biography:
Karen Peak began formally working with dogs when she was twelve. After getting married she began doing Therapy work with the Pets and People Foundation in Massachusetts for an additional 2 1/2 years. She now has two TDI (Therapy Dogs International) registered dogs with whom she works the Safe Kids/Safe Dogs Project. Other canine work she has done includes volunteering for three years with a training facility's weekend Dog Play Group and a former Guiding Eyes for the Blind volunteer. Karen's dogs have obtained titles in Conformation, Agility and Obedience. They have been taught Drafting and Skijoring. "I enjoy writing, fighting breed specific legislations (aka breed bans), crafting and teaching my son what I know. But my main love in the world of dogs is my Safe Kids/Safe Dogs Project."

I also found this checklist, called the "Puppy Health Test"

Puppy Health Test

Probably one of the most important thing that you must consider before choosing a puppy is what we like to call the "puppy health test". When you're looking for a puppy, there are a few things that can help determine a puppy's good or poor health. Feel free to bring this checklist with you when you're choosing a puppy.

The puppy's eyes. Look at the puppy's eyes. Are the bright, clear, and clean or are they weepy looking, caked with goo, and runny.

The puppy's ears. Are they clean (both inside and outside) free of ticks and free of bald patches?

The puppy's mouth. Are the puppy's gums and teeth clean, the proper color, and free of sores, plaque and food? Is the tongue clean? Is the puppy's breath have that sour milk puppy smell or does it smell rotten?

The puppy's coat. Is it free from mats, dirt, and feces, especially around the rectum? Is the coat clean and very soft? Or is it patchy with bald spots? Is there evidence of ticks or fleas (small black spots or raised red bumps are evidence of fleas.) Does the puppy smell bad?

The puppy's paws. Are they clean with clipped nails and nothing lodged between the pads? Does the puppy walk easily or does it limp?

How does the puppy act? Is he energetic, curious, and interested in you? Or does he seem to be tired and not interested in you, even when you try to get its attention?

If the puppy you're interested in appears to be in good health, is clean, pest-free, looks like he's eating well, energetic, curious, and interested in getting your attention, then you have a great puppy.

I have learned that just looking into breeders on the internet does not guarantee you will find out everything you need to know. If a breeder only has a small few dogs showing on the web site does not mean that when you go to pick up the pup you see 50 dogs!(adults and pups!) That is the bad thing about puppy mills.

Becaue of this I am now looking into setting up a web site where people can come and share their experience's and let others know about the horrible breeders that sell sick pups! THis way people can be more informed. I hope to have the site up and running in a month.

There is a website, like what you want to develop - but not exactly the same - called "Stop Bad Breeders". Here is the link:

Disreputable Breeders

Here is another one from "Quality Dogs" I see there is a forum on that site for posting and many other things.

Dog Breeders, Puppies for Sale, Dog Breeds Information