Hi, I have a cabin high in the mountains in Colorado. I have a well and an 85 gallon bladder type pressure tank that is set at 40 psi on and 60 psi cutoff. The system works fine. I am now building a 40'x60' barn about 400' away from the cabin. I will cut the copper pipe and place a tee fitting just after the pressure tank and run a 400' water line to the barn. I was told that I needed another pressure tank, so I ordered a Amtrol Well-X-Trol WX-202 20 gal Well Pressure Tank.

First, after really thinking about it, I probably don't even need the tank, but it is being shipped and it will cost a lot to ship it back.

Can I install the pressure tank in the barn as I had intended? Will it improve the pressure in the system? Can I just install the pressure tank without any controls? It would be extremely difficult to run electrical wires back to the well pump switch. Please help me figure this out….. Ron

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I was told that I needed another pressure tank, so I ordered a Amtrol Well-X-Trol WX-202 20 gal Well Pressure Tank.

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Did a plumber tell you that? Why? To add pressure? Volume? What?

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First, after really thinking about it, I probably don't even need the tank,

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So what brought you to that frame of mind?

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Can I install the pressure tank in the barn as I had intended? Will it improve the pressure in the system?

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Yes and no! Yes you can install the bladder tank and no it won't improve the pressure.
My advice would be to run the service line to the barn,(what size will the line be?) and sell the extra tank on E-Bay. Good luck, Tom

What is your water demand at the barn? As Tom said the answer is yes and no. A tank at the barn will not increase your pressure but it will increase the volume available for short period.

If you install the tank at the barn you will not be running electric to the tank. The well pump must be controlled by only one tank unless you want to get into a complex system of relay switching and valves.

More than you ask, but I assume the mountains of Colorado occasionally get below freezing. Unless you have heat in the barn, you would have to provide some means to prevent the tank freezing or provide means for draining the tank and lines.


See this post for a suggestion on how to prevent pipes from freezing in unheated barn.

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/plumbi...ng-587953.html

You've got it. Might as well install it as it won't hurt anything. I think I'd put a checkvalve before the smaller tank. It would hold pressure at 60# in the tank until you are ready to use water in the barn. Again, not a great benefit, but whatever.

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Originally Posted by speedball1

Did a plumber tell you that? Why? To add pressure? Volume? What?
So what brought you to that frame of mind?
Yes and no! Yes you can install the bladder tank and no it won't improve the pressure.
My advice would be to run the service line to the barn,(what size will the line be?) and sell the extra tank on E-Bay. Good luck, Tom

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So, you would NOT install the second pressure tank. I am installing 400' of 3/4" PEX tubing.

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Originally Posted by rlgerst

So, you would NOT install the second pressure tank. I am installing 400' of 3/4" PEX tubing.

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I just don't see any great advantage in installing the tank. It won't hurt but won't give toy more pressure, However, If you want more volume you could install a inline 40 gallon galvanized pressure tank. If you want the extra volume for the barn saved for the barn use install a check valve in front of the pressure tank. Good luck. Tom

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Originally Posted by rlgerst

Hi, I have a cabin high in the mountains in Colorado. I have a well and an 85 gallon bladder type pressure tank that is set at 40 psi on and 60 psi cutoff. The system works fine. I am now building a 40'x60' barn about 400' away from the cabin. I will cut the copper pipe and place a tee fitting just after the pressure tank and run a 400' water line to the barn. I was told that I needed another pressure tank, so I ordered a Amtrol Well-X-Trol WX-202 20 gal Well Pressure Tank.

First, after really thinking about it, I probably don't even need the tank, but it is being shipped and it will cost alot to ship it back.

Can I install the pressure tank in the barn as I had intended? Will it improve the pressure in the system? Can I just install the pressure tank without any controls? It would be extremely difficult to run electrical wires back to the well pump switch. Please help me figure this out….. Ron

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OK - I can install the second pressure tank and get a little more volume. If I do install it, I will install it with no controls. I like the "check valve" idea. I will see how much it will cost me to return it, but there is always eBay.

I want water at the barn to wash the motorhome and ATV's. I will have a sink, but no toilet and that is all that I want the water for.

I plumbed my cabin so that every time that I leave the cabin, I completely drain all the water even in the summer. All my pipes have a slope to several drain points and I leave the drains and faucets open to dry out. Works great. I also turn off the inverter completely removing electrical power to the cabin and barn. The only power is from solar with a generator backup.

NOW, this new 3/4" PEX water line will run downhill from the cabin to the barn and will have a constant downhill slope until it reaches the barn. Then it will rise sharply through a 3” pipe that I have installed under the slab that turns vertically to be inside the barn. NOW, I want to drain the water to the barn every time that I leave the cabin. So at the lowest point I would like to install a drain that would drain the 400’ water line from the cabin and also drain the water from the barn. The lowest point will be underground about 3 feet from the barn because that is where the water line enters the 3” access pipe to the barn. HOW CAN I INSTALL A DRAIN THERE? UNDERGROUND about 4’ deep? How would you install a drain? Again, I need to figure this out. Please help…… Ron

The fact that it is a downhill run to your barn will work for your good. You get an extra little pressure boost, depending on how much the drop is.

I'm assuming you want to drain the line every time to avoid freezing? Anyway, does the slope continue down from the barn? If so, then could you run another hundred feet or so of pipe to a point below the barn where you could put a spigot? Open that spigot, and drain the whole line above it.

As HK pointed out, if freezing is an issue, then putting the tank in the barn just gives you one more thing to worry about. I'd consider just putting it with the large tank near the cabin. It will give you a little more initial volume and somewhat shorter pump cycles. But if you are draining everything every time, then I don't know. Just seems to me to be another headache.

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Originally Posted by jlisenbe

The fact that it is a downhill run to your barn will work for your good. You get an extra little pressure boost, depending on how much the drop is.

I'm assuming you want to drain the line everytime to avoid freezing? Anyway, does the slope continue down from the barn? If so, then could you run another hundred feet or so of pipe to a point below the barn where you could put a spigot? Open that spigot, and drain the whole line above it.

As HK pointed out, if freezing is an issue, then putting the tank in the barn just gives you one more thing to worry about. I'd consider just putting it with the large tank near the cabin. It will give you a little more initial volume and somewhat shorter pump cycles. But if you are draining everything everytime, then I don't know. Just seems to me to be another headache.

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Thanks, Your idea of running the line to create a lower point and put a spigot could work, but I would like to control a valve at the low point next to the barn.

I drain the water every time because when I left it in, it develped a bad odor. Besides water does not need to be in my pipes when I leave it for months at a time. I only use the cabin a few times a year.

Hope that I can find a valve that I can drain next to the barn... Ron

Rigerst, how about blowing the water out of the line with compressed air? I have a similar set-up and before cold weather I open the spigot and blow from the other end. Just a thought.

Unless I missed it, I think the question was how to drain his water line so as to leave it empty.

As far as I know, unless you do indeed use compressed air at the top, the only way to drain your water lines would be through a lower point in elevation. I would think you could simply run a line to a lower point past the barn and put a cutoff valve where that line joins in the barn. When you are ready to drain, just open the cutoff. However, I'm willing to bet that others on this site will have better ideas. Come on guys!

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Originally Posted by parttime

rigerst, how about blowing the water out of the line with compressed air? I have a similiar set-up and before cold weather I open the spigot and blow from the other end. just a thought.

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I live in Colorado and always blow out my sprinker lines at home and the same for the motorhome, but I have set up the cabin to drain itself without blowing out the lines. The way that I intend to run water to the barn is good, but I just need some kind of valve to drain next to the barn. I seems to me that they MUST have a remote valve. Either electrical or manual. Maybe I could build a box containing a shutoff valve and then have a 1-2" pipe on top that so I could run a metal handle to manually open and close the shutoff valve. Does any know of an electrical shutoff valve that I could open to drain and close to use water in the barn? Ron

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Originally Posted by jlisenbe

Unless I missed it, I think the question was how to drain his water line so as to leave it empty.

As far as I know, unless you do indeed use compressed air at the top, the only way to drain your water lines would be through a lower point in elevation. I would think you could simply run a line to a lower point past the barn and put a cutoff valve where that line joins in the barn. When you are ready to drain, just open the cutoff. However, I'm willing to bet that others on this site will have better ideas. Come on guys!

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My bad! Blame it on advancing age and gross inattention. Thanks for picking up on it. Tom

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Originally Posted by rlgerst

OK - I can install the second pressure tank and get a little more volume. If I do install it, I will install it with no controls. I like the "check valve" idea. I will see how much it will cost me to return it, but there is always eBay.

I want water at the barn to wash the motorhome and ATV's. I will have a sink, but no toilet and that is all that I want the water for.

I plumbed my cabin so that every time that I leave the cabin, I completely drain all the water even in the summer. All my pipes have a slope to several drain points and I leave the drains and faucets open to dry out. Works great. I also turn off the inverter completely removing electrical power to the cabin and barn. The only power is from solar with a generator backup.

NOW, this new 3/4" PEX water line will run downhill from the cabin to the barn and will have a constant downhill slope until it reaches the barn. Then it will rise sharply through a 3” pipe that I have installed under the slab that turns vertically to be inside the barn. NOW, I want to drain the water to the barn every time that I leave the cabin. So at the lowest point I would like to install a drain that would drain the 400’ water line from the cabin and also drain the water from the barn. The lowest point will be underground about 3 feet from the barn because that is where the water line enters the 3” access pipe to the barn. HOW CAN I INSTALL A DRAIN THERE? UNDERGROUND about 4’ deep? How would you install a drain? Again, I need to figure this out. Please help…… Ron

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Thanks to everyone for your help….. I did an internet search and found a
3/4" Brass 110VAC Electric Solenoid Water Valve that is Normally Closed. I really think that this is the answer. I will put a tee in the water line at its lowest point. I will point the tee part downward and put this electric solenoid valve on this line. I will dig a deep hole and fill it with rocks. I think that I will put the valve in a box. Since the valve is normally closed, I will have water to the barn. When I want to drain it (after I turn off the water pump) I will “turn on the switch” that will open the valve electrically and I will drain the line from the cabin and the barn. I will have a downslope to all these water lines to this lowest point.
Does this sound like a good plan? Again thanks to all of you for your help….. Ron

Sounds like a plan to me, good luck with it and let us know how it turns out.


I just thought, if the valve fails, you'll get frozen and busted lines to replace.

Just how deep do you plan to bury the pipe to the barn? I would think that the frost line for the Colorado mountains would be quite deep. Unless you put the line below the frost line there is no point in putting it any deeper than necessary to protect it from physical damage. You can then just put a drain valve at the riser coming up in side the barn.

Sounds good to me. Let us know how it works out.