I've tried everything I can think of. Main relay, fuel pump, distributor, cap, rotor, spark plugs, plug wires. I checked all the things that have been suggested on this and other forums, like continuity from harness to pump, harness to ground, pump to ground, ecu to ground, all fuses, but still no fuel pump working.

. Does the CEL stay on, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)?

. Check the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse in the under dash fuse box. It's really best to check all under dash and under hood fuses with a test light or multimeter. Visual inspection is not good enough.

Fuel System Troubleshooting

This is a two-part problem: 1) Determine if the fuel pump works, and 2) Determine why the PGM-FI Main Relay doesn't work properly.

If you don't hear the fuel pump run, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II):

Problem 1: Determine if the fuel pump works.

1. Disconnect the main relay from the main relay connector. Jump main relay connector Terminals 5 and 7, turn the ignition switch to ON, and listen for the fuel pump in the gas tank. If you can hear the fuel pump run, which is usually the case, it is likely good and you should proceed to Problem 2. If it doesn't run, go to Step 2.

2. Turn the ignition switch ON. Measure voltage between main relay connector Terminal 5 and ground. If there's not battery voltage, test/replace the ACG (ALT) (S) (15 A) fuse in the under dash fuse/relay box. If necessary, repair an open in the wiring between the main relay and the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse. Verify that you now have battery voltage to Terminal 5. If the fuel pump still doesn't run, however, go to Step 3.

3. Check for continuity between main relay connector Terminal 7 and the fuel pump. If necessary, repair an open in the wiring. If the fuel pump still doesn't run, go to Step 4.

4. Check fuel pump. Even though it's certainly possible, I have never seen a Honda fuel pump fail. They are very reliable. Clean connections and thoroughly test pump motor, prior to replacement. Before going any further, all efforts must be focused on getting the fuel pump to run (i.e. solve Problem 1 first), when main relay connector Terminals 5 and 7 are jumped and the ignition switch is turned to ON. If the main relay and fuel pump still don't work properly together, however, go to Problem 2.

Problem 2: Determine why the PGM-FI Main Relay doesn't work properly.

5. Check for continuity between main relay connector Terminal 2 and body ground, with the ignition switch OFF. If there's no continuity, clean the main ECM ground, which is usually located on the thermostat housing. Look for 3 wires going to a brass connector. Remove the 10 mm bolt, clean with No. 240 abrasive cloth, and apply dielectric grease. If necessary, repair an open in the wiring between the main relay and the main ECM ground. If there's continuity, go to Step 6.

6. Measure voltage between main relay connector Terminal 1 and ground. If there is not battery voltage, test/replace the ECM fuse (15 A) in the under hood fuse/relay box. If necessary, repair an open in the wiring between the main relay and the ECM fuse. If there is battery voltage, go to Step 7.

7. Turn the ignition switch to START. With manual transmissions, depress the clutch pedal. With automatic transmissions, the gear selector must be in Neutral or Park. Measure voltage between main relay connector Terminal 6 and ground. If there's not battery voltage, test/replace the STARTER SIGNAL (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. If necessary, repair an open in the wire between the main relay and the STARTER SIGNAL fuse. Should the main relay and fuel pump still not work properly, go to Step 8.

8. Perform the K-Test on the ECM. Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch ON (not start). Using a multi-meter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate. The ECM controls grounding to main relay Terminal 8, which affects when the second relay inside the main relay opens and closes. If the ECM cannot control grounding to the second relay, the fuel pump will not run. The only alternative is to replace the ECM.

SUMMARY OF MAIN RELAY PROBLEM AREAS:

Terminal 1--Test ECM fuse in under hood fuse box.
Terminal 2--Clean main ECM ground on thermostat housing.
Terminal 5--Test ACG (ALT) (S) fuse in under dash fuse box.
Terminal 6--Test STARTER SIGNAL fuse in under dash fuse box.
Terminal 7--Test continuity to fuel pump.
Terminal 8--Test ECM (K-Test).

I did ALL of this, but still no fuel pump... Nothing wrong with the car, but still no pump.

I don't have anything to add to my original write-up.

Don't feel bad. It's got me stumped and I've got the car to look at... Will repeat, and test some more. This ghost will show its head. I had to buy a new to us car so the wife could get to work.