I recently bought someone's headache shaped like an 90 acura integra. The instrument cluster does not seem to want to work right. It was in the dreaded condition of halfway apart when I got it. I've went online and verified all the wires are in the correct positions in the connectors. I even went as far as swap another cluster in to see if that gave me any results but condition stays the same. Tach doesn't move. Check engine light stays on once key is turned. Car will crank and run, just no tach. Cluster has power at the appropriate wires. I can't remember the pin locations off the top of my head but it's the yellow wire and the black and yellow wire that is supposed to have power when the key is on. When tested with multi meter they do have power. Tach gets signal from the igniter in the distributor. It's the blue wire. No voltage on the blue wire when checked. I'll wait for questions. I

I would check your Engine code, and verify continuity of wire from Distributor to tach.

I checked continuity from the igniter to the tach and it is good. I'm working on those codes.

Codes, 6, 7, 9,10, 14, 17. I'm looking them up now.

6=engine coolant temp

7=throttle position

9=cyp sensor(cylinder)

10=intake air temp

14=idle air control

17=vehicle speed sensor

OK I've been working on it a while now today. I pressed the tps wire fully on the sensor and that fixed code 7. I cleaned the iacv with brake cleaner and put it back on, fixed code 14. I ran a wire to the ecu from the cluster for the vss, fixed code 17. I cleaned the connector at the cluster and got a ebrake warning light and a battery warning light at startup. Still got a check engine light with code 6, 9, and 10. Still no tach. Speedo works but it's mechanical. I put a plug on the dimmer and got the cluster lights to work and dim. I still do not have a working temp gauge or fuel gauge. Also the high beams won't come on and the blue high beam indicator also does not come on. Where is Texas grease monkey?

Hopefully TXgreasemonkey will be here shortly, great on Hondas in particular.
Good work so far, I would look for maybe a bad/loose ground.
I would test the fuel sender, Gauge should get power from Ignition when switched on and the ground to make the gauge work from the sender with variable resistance, at the gauge, I would briefly short sender to ground and watch fuel gauge. This will tell if it is the gauge or, sender/wiring, you may find or fix another problem as well.

Hightbeam and Indicator get power from the Headlight switch or a relay.
I believe High and Low beam are Fused separately, Check fuses, if good, check Headlight switch.
Good Luck, you're almost there.

I tried yet another cluster I had at the shop from another 91 and I still get the same results. While I rummaged around the shop I found an old intake manifold, robbed the iat sensor from it and installed it on the integra. After clearing the codes, they came right back. I ordered a new sensor yesterday but in the mean time I thought I'd try it. I will still put in the new sensor when it gets here in a day or 2 but I am thinking it's in the wiring since so much of it has been messed with and I'm pretty sure that sensor was good. I really want to get the tach working so I can start breaking in this freshly rebuilt motor. So far it's just idled till it got up to operating temp and cooled off a few times. (I had to use an aftermarket water temp gauge) I got the plug for the high beam on the driver side from pull a part but I didn't put it on today. I 'm pretty sure I'm missing the relays the go to the high beams. In fact it appears all the relays within arms reach of the passenger side shock tower have been scavenged. I'm in the process of replacing them. I still think the igniter may be bad. I've not tried to test it yet.

Sounds like you like this Car, I would get a shop Manual, it will save you much time and money, tell location of fuses and relays, lot of valuable information. Be sure it has a good schematic.
This is what I use for tracing:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PROGRESSIVE-...item231bb1b7e0

Actually the model I have has not only has a tone that you can put on a wire and detect with Inductive Amp, But has continuity tester N.O. N.C. NO with Latch and NC with Latch, Great for Cars, Boats, Phone, Alarm, Anything with wires.

Was a bad igniter in the distributor causing the problem

No surprise.