I have a home that was built in 2010. The DW discharges out the basement wall, approx 4 feet up from the floor, and out into my own septic system. The builder roughed in a Shower, Toilet & Sink that discharges into a vented grinder pump crock that discharges into the main DW line. The furnace condensate and water softner also discharge into this crock through a floor drain.

I would like to finish the bathroom, but I noticed that there were no vents roughed-in. Since the shower, toilet and sink discharge into the vented crock, are any other vents needed?

Hi Sparky

Great question here! I'm glad you asked it, too because you can be sure that there is additional venting needed!

If Wet venting is allowed in your area then the 2" drain pipe coming out of the ground to pick up the sink will tee off 1.5" and pick up the sink at about 18" to center of drain pipe (if pedestal sink, or 15" to center if a vanity base) and then continue up full size 2" until you can connect into a 2" or larger vent upstairs... or you can also penetrate the roof separate and end the vent run that way. This one 2" vent will be WET VENTING the toilet and shower and individually venting the sink...nice when allowed!!

If individually vented fixtures were required you would have multiple pipes coming out the ground, so I am quite sure this WET VENTING is the right way to go.

Finally, with all that being said, I still want you to check with local codes enforcement...just a quick call to confirm what I have suggested, OK?

A 2" cleanout before the PTRAP under the sink or pedestal is probably required, but if not, install one anyway... will be glad when/if the sink clogs!

Thanks for the quick reply!

I found the closest 2" vent, about 50 feet away. It is the vent to a first-floor toilet. It is in-between the joists of my basement, approx 2 feet away from where the toilet comes down and starts it's run.

Is it okay to tie into this vent where the vent is mostly horizontal? It does turn 90 deg up, but it gets into the floorboards almost immediately (would be very difficult to squeeze a Tee in there).

I noticed that the crock's vent is 1.5", and does not tie into any other vent. It looks like it goes all the way to the roof by itself. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think any other venting is allowed to connect to this 1.5" crock vent... Right?

I do plan on checking with local codes before starting, but I wanted to get a clear idea of what work I have ahead of me first :)

The "crock vent" must remain a "dedicated vent"... code requirement, so you are right.. nothing else can connect into this vent.

To connect the 2" vent from the basement will require you to connect into that toilet vent at 42" above the finish floor of the toilet... so can't connect the vent in the basement... must be connected at minimum 42" off the finish floor upstairs.

With that being said, however, the 50 feet is pushing code requirements! Here, you would probably need to increase that vent to 2.5" AND CONNECT INTO 2.5" or larger vent (i.e., a 3" or larger vent) at a minimum of 42" on the 1st floor (or above), so you may be better off running this basement vent up and through the roof by itself (or at least into the attic area and connect into a vent up there).

Your thoughts..

Thanks again... Definitely running out of options here... My fall-back is a question about a Studor valve (AAR). They are allowed in my area. Would one of these work on my application instead of trying to run a vent stack to my attic/roof?

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... My fall-back is a question about a Studor valve (AAR). They are allowed in my area. Would one of these work on my application instead of trying to run a vent stack to my attic/roof?

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You can not install a Studore Vent on a dedcated pit vent. A dedicated pit vent both sucks in and expels air. Since a AAV will only allow air to be sucked in and not expelled It won't work. Sorry! This vent MUST be dedicated. That means you can't tie back to a existing house vent or use a AAV. Good luck, Tom

Hi Tom,

My pit already has a 1.5" dedicated vent. I was wondering if my Shower, Toilet and Sink vent could be a AAR instead of tearing my house apart to add a new vent line to the attic/roof.

Thanks

Sorry if I misunderstood. You have options for your fixture vent.
1. You may run it out the roof or revent back in the attic to a existing roof vent.
2. you may revent back into a existing dry vent, **or**
3. Yes, you may vent the fixtures with a Studor Vent since they are allowed in your area. However, The AAV MUST be assessable for service and replacement. That simply means that you can't wall it in. Good luck, Tom

Thanks Tom!

I have another twist to this... I am thinking about putting in a basement laundry room, with a double utility sink. I would like to run the drain over to the bathroom Sink drain that I have been previously discussing. I can keep the pitch, and the overall run would be about 30'. I would also put a separate Studor Valve in as the vent for the double utility sink.

Would tying the laundry utility sink into the bathroom sink 2" stub-out be allowed? Basically there would be the Toilet, Shower, Bathroom Sink, and Laundry Sink all running into the same vented grinder pump pit.

Thanks again!

I can see the discharge from the washer backing back up in your lavatory with today's more powerful washer pumps.

I assume the lavatory stubout is 1 1/2" and not 1 1/4" that you'll in a older home.
1 1/2" is too small for todays washer pumps. Even if you have to open up the slab would it be possible to tie back to a 2" drain line? Let me know,Tom

Hi Tom,

My lavatory stub-out is 2". I'm wondering if this 2" is okay to have both a bathroom sink (1.5") and laundry utility sink (1.5") tied into. This 2" also appears to be the Wet-Vent to the Toilet & Shower.

Thanks

Hi Sparky

Double check with your inspector, of course, but in my area you cannot install a washing machine or a utility sink receiving discharge from a washing machine on any wet vent... period! As Tom alluded too, the sheer volume of water can overwhelm the system and can siphon fixtures PTRAPS allowing sewer gasses to "burp" into your home creating "problem odors" down the road... ;)

A simple call over to a local plumbing inspector should confirm or conflict with my answer... OK?

Mark

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This 2" also appears to be the Wet-Vent to the Toilet & Shower.

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That wet vent did it! I'm with Mark, It's a no-no in my code also. You may tie to the main but before you start anything check with your local Building Department. Good luck, Tom

Thanks guys! What about having the Laundry/Utility sink (with it's own AAR) feed the Shower 2" stub-out (with a trap under the gravel)? I would not install a shower at all. Again, this shower 2" joins the toilet drain, along with the bathroom sink 2" stub-out (wet-vent for the toilet & shower). The bathroom sink 2" would have a sink attached, along with it's own AAR.

If the shower were already in place I would advise against it. It's not too good a idea to drain a washer pump into the lowest fixture in your house. You're just asking for a flood. However,
If the shower's roughed in all you have to do is remove the shower trap and tie back to the open 2" drain line. Good luck, Tom

As long as you add an AAV to the wet vent (for toilet and sink) and an additional AAV for the utility sink (via shower drain) I'm OK with it, too!

Like Tom said, remove the underground trap and use a long sweep elbow to come out of the ground to pick up the sink... add AAV and full size 2" cleanout (called a test tee) and you're all set!

Good luck!

Great! Okay, hopefully last question... Do I need to remove the shower trap (under the gravel)? I could easily add a cleanout right above the sweep Tee that brings the laundry sink to the shower stub-out.

Thanks again for all your help!

Remove the shower trap and sweep up out of the slab. You can add a Cleanout Tee to the sweep and a sanitary tee to the clean out tee. Come off the branch of the tee with a 2"" "P" trap and a 36" standpipe.
From the top of the tee install a 5' raiser with your AAV. This should do it. Good luck, Tom

Great! Thanks to all for the advice... I'm going to run this solution past my inspector to make sure they accept it before doing any work!

Let us know how you make out. Good luck, Tom