Had leak at base of tub drain extension. Cracked at elbow which then had another straight piece to a 2nd elbow that went into bottom of an old drum trap(circa 1940's) . Drum trap then emptied out top into what appears to be a 1 1/2 or 2 inch pipe. That pipe angles over into main cast iron drain from under toilet about 3 feet away.

Managed to get the tub drain entension, the elbows and drum trap off.

Now the problem is from the bottom of the new tub drain extension to where the pipe that exited top of drum trap is a about 6 inch's higher, and approx 6 inch's over. The old set up looked like a rube goldberg set up.

Very tight confines between dining room ceiling and floor of bathroom above and tub drain extension comes down within 1/2 inch of a cross joist for house. Even if I can get a P trap installed it's still not going to be same height as existing old pipe that came out top of drum.

One optin I see is to install the p trap.. run it alonmg side of joist over to side wall of house( 1 1/2 feet. Then elbow it and rund 1 1/2 line down to basement and install a Tee or Y connection into the main 4 inch charlotte drain pipe. That would only require my covering the pipeing with a small additional piece of sheet rock in corner section of dining room.
Finally. I notice the 1 1/2 extensions from new tub kits when placed into 1 1/2 pvs pipes still has about 1/8 inch clearance. Is there a reducer piece I need for the connections. Or does the glue once applied melt the pipes together/

OK. Update. With a little creativity I was able to get the J trap connected and slid end piece into the original existing horizontal pipe. Had to cut off about 1 inch from the tail piece after the Tee but still plent enuff to fit into the connector of the trap. It is holding water so appears OK. NOW, if someone could help me with how to remove the old tub drain. I purchased a PO removal tool. However, in my current drain I still have a stem from the old pop up stopper( I got the actual stopper section off with no probvlem). I've tried turning the stem counter clockwise and clockwise for an hour and it just keeps spinning. Can't get the removal tool down into drain corrrectly with this stem in the way. Any suggestions?

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if someone could help me with how to remove the old tub drain. I purchased a PO removal tool. However, in my current drain I still have a stem from the old pop up stopper

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You are talking about two different sections here. The tub drain,(called "The tub shoe) and the pop up stopper. Did you get the tub shoe off and why are you removing the drain and pop up stopper to install a "P" trap? Are you tearing everything out and starting from scratch? This should be a simple job. Tear out the old drum trap and install a "P" trap under the tee off the tub shoe. Then connect the horizontal lines together. Seems to me you're making a simple job awfully complicated. And please tell me more about this "stem" that's giving you trouble. Stem to what? What's it connect to and why does it have to come off? Back to you, Tom

Thanks Tom. Got the drum off finally. I can't get the shoe off. Since I was replacing the old Drum with a new P trap figured do the tub shoe, drain and all at same time. Thankfully the tub shoe and drain weren't the issue so for now I'll just leave it alone. The stem in question was in middle of the drain after I removed the stopper. The drain itself is an old Gerber model. Trying to use a removal tool I broke off the tongs. But since the drain isn't the problem I'm just going to leave it alone for now. Meanwhile,my house was built in 1910, and had an outhouse. As they updated the drain lines someone took a strange circuitous route down from the T behind tub(for the overflow tube)-then a double elbow into bottom of drum-out top of drum into a 1 1/2 galvanized steel pipe that was offset about 3 inch's from the center of tub shoe and T. That pipe then ran over a beam and sloped across yet another till it reached an old cast iron main 4" drain coming off under the toilet. Thus trying to run the straight extension off the P trap over to same drain would require drilling through or chopping off half of 2 cross beams( a real drama). Or, as easier just run a new tub drain line across to side wall( 1 1/2 feet away( and then down to basement where can connect back ito main drain with a wye. That too would mean some renovations to side walls and a new hole through the flooring. I've managed to get the P trap connected by shortening the tail piece off the tee and turning the T so the tail is on a slight angle rather than straing vertical. It allows the connections to set and it's holding water. So until June when I'm rippinmg entire 2nd floor apart and will be all installing new bathroom , drains as well as rear wall to house this temp set up should suffice. Thanks again. Bob E

Hi Guys

What about replacing the old drum trap with a new PVC drum trap (available at any plumbing supply store)... just a thought here?

Mark