Ask Me Help Desk

Ask Me Help Desk (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/forum.php)
-   Cars & Trucks (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/forumdisplay.php?f=41)
-   -   2000 Honda Civic! (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=62999)

  • Feb 14, 2007, 07:37 PM
    Louie Rosecity
    2000 Honda Civic!
    Thank you for reading.. I have an error code 1336 on a 2000 Honda Civic - I found it's a speed fluctuation sensor for rpm - or it's called a cfk? Anyway, it's misfiring on all cylinders codes and throws those codes on an OBDII and the 1336 code. Plugs and wires are new and Runs just fine for me now - Any Ideas on what to fix? I also can't pass emissions now and it has 100k miles? Help please! While I'm at it... Any idea how long it takes to replace a heater blower motor also>? Thank You - :confused:
  • Feb 14, 2007, 08:24 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    Code P1336--Crankshaft Speed Fluctuation Sensor (CKP).

    If this sounds like what was recorded, I believe the only solution is to replace the distributor housing, which contains the CKP Sensor. It's not uncommon for Honda distributors to fail between 50,000 and 120,000 miles. Normally, it's somewhere around 95,000 miles. The sealed bearing starts to fail and it takes out one or more sensors. My advice is to buy a new Honda distributor housing ($125) and install your old igniter and coil. This would be a good time to replace the rotor and distributor cap.

    I have no idea on the blower motor.
  • Feb 15, 2007, 04:46 PM
    Louie Rosecity
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Louie Rosecity
    Thank you for reading .. I have an error code 1336 on a 2000 Honda Civic - I found it's a speed fluctuation sensor for rpm - or it's called a cfk? Anyways, it's misfiring on all cylinders codes and throws those codes on an OBDII and the 1336 code. Plugs and wires are new and Runs just fine for me now - Any Ideas on what to fix? I also can't pass emissions now and it has 100k miles? Help please! While I'm at it ..... Any idea how long it takes to replace a heater blower motor also>? Thank You - :confused:

    I called around and asked for a dist housing and they asked if that was the lower part of the dist or a more specific name? ANy Ideas no that please - I was quoted 140.00 from Schucks / Krager
  • Feb 15, 2007, 05:28 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    You want to go to Honda for the distributor housing, which is pretty self-explanatory. It includes everything, except the distributor cap, rotor, igniter, and coil. It comes with all the sensors. At least 4 people at AMHD have had problems with brand new non-Honda aftermarket distributors. Honda's price is quite reasonable, anyhow ($125).
  • Feb 15, 2007, 05:34 PM
    Louie Rosecity
    Thank you I was just concerned because my local dealer said $303.00 for what I described ( Iread your message to them) and I about crapped! (-:
  • Feb 15, 2007, 06:10 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    I'm sure Honda quoted you a price for a distributor, which included a new igniter, coil, rotor, and distributor cap.
  • Feb 15, 2007, 06:37 PM
    Louie Rosecity
    Oh - I see - Big Question please - Is this a DYI? - I'm a fairly smart technical person I guess and wondered is replacing the Dist Housing this a dyi - my older brother said its not a dyi due to tdc issues, rotor alignment, etc!? Thanks Again - Does nayone have instructions on how to do this at all?
  • Feb 15, 2007, 06:49 PM
    Louie Rosecity
    PLease see post above - It's more than this...

    "To replace the distributor you need to do exactly this:

    - remove spark plug wires from spark plugs
    - disconnect 2 connectors (easily reached)
    - undo 3 bolts that hold the distributor to the engine head
    - take the distributor out

    If i had to do it for someone, i'd charge them $1 or $2. I'd do it on my way to work and still not be late."

    Right?
  • Feb 15, 2007, 07:33 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    1. Disconnect negative battery terminal, after recording radio code.
    2. Mark distributor housing and bracket, in order to get timing fairly close upon reinstallation.
    3. Remove three hex head machine screws, securing distributor cap to housing, using an 8 mm nut driver.
    4. Move distributor cap and wires off to the side.
    5. Remove machine screw securing rotor to shaft, using #2 Phillips head screwdriver, and leak cover. It may be necessary to "hit" the starter once or twice, in order to rotate rotor for access to mounting screw.
    6. Disconnect 2-P and 8-P electrical connectors from tower. The trick to separating these connectors is to squeeze the connector's mounting release first and remove from mount. It helps to use a small flashlight. Then, the connector will separate--do not force.
    7. Remove three 12 mm bolts securing distributor housing to engine.
    8. Remove old distributor, place on table, and remove coil, igniter, and cap seal.
    9. Install old igniter, coil, leak cover, cap seal, and rotor in new distributor. Ensure female igniter terminals fit snugly--crimp with pliers, if necessary.
    10. Coat O-ring with engine oil.
    11. Install distributor, align original timing markings, and button up.
    12. Read Sections C and D, to precisely set idle speed and ignition timing.

    Note: Due to the ingenious offset shaft, there's no way you can install the distributor incorrectly.
  • Feb 15, 2007, 07:37 PM
    Louie Rosecity
    Thank you! You're a GOD in my book! I'm in Portland, Oregon and will be doing this first thing in the morning! Wish me luck -lol - Thank's again very much!! :) ;) :)

  • All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:17 PM.