Speed, Mass & Milo,
Thanks for your replies. I appreciate the information.
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you said a 15PSI meter... and only 10 PSI for your test... please explain that, OK?
My code is 15 minutes at 10psi on a 30psi gauge with "an appropriate scale such that pressure loss can be easily determined." I ran my pressure tests at 10 psi for 15 minutes on a 15psi meter with 0.1psig markings. Is there a reason I should rather have used the full range of the meter?
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You are still delivering gas to the appliances at 1/2PSI, right?
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I am not sure what you mean by "still," but that is what the ng line pressure is here/ will be to the appliance.
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if the meter has a seal leak then the gas company should either repair or replace it. Have you contacted the gas company about this problem?
I haven't contacted them (yet?). I figure they'll want to know why/how I know there is a seal leak...
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you aren't testing through the meter are you?. so you don't overpressurize the gas valves and break them, OK?
I did not disconnect the gas meter during my test, so I tested through the meter (?). I thought that it wasn't necessary since the incoming valve was closed, and I didn't want to disturb any of the old connections. Is it likely I did damage to the meter/ diaphragm? I understand that was wrong. I should have opened the right hand union, loosened the left hand union (after closed valve) and rotated the meter away to allow for capping or the test gauge. Correct? Can I totally disconnect the meter, set on ground, test, then reconnect?
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Also, remove all valves from the new system. Plug all ends with metal cap. Then attach gauge and retest.
I had capped the attic line and tested at the range stub, however, have since added ball valves at both locations. So, to confirm, I cannot test from the meter against the two ball valves? I must remove, recap and test? Do (ball) valves leak at pressures higher than 0.5psig?
Thank you very much for your help.