I've already had the ignition replaced via a Honda recall. The fuel pump, distributor cap, rotor motor, and alternator are all new. My hoses are fine. The battery is in good condition, yet my Honda dies on me while I'm driving. The radio continues to work and the dash lights up. The car will not restart immediately. I have to wait a few minutes. The starter is new, as well. What's the issue? Thank you.

Replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil inside the distributor. Be sure to apply silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM.

I just had the main relay replaced this evening. I'll look into the ICM and coil. Can the ICM and coil be tested to see if they are, in fact, my problem? Thank you. Also, I inadvertently submitted this question twice. Please disregard the second submission. Thank you.

Bench testing ICMs and coils is virtually useless, since it doesn't come close to simulating the heat generated in the real world. Heat is the nemesis of ICMs and coils, which causes them to breakdown under load. These are the two most problematic components on Hondas. I recommend replacing them every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

I'm virtually certain this will solve your problem. In 45 minutes you should have "like new" reliability and performance. Do a search on this site and see the hundreds of people who have had similar problems solved by replacing these components.

Wonderful! Thank you for your time and input.

The weak links in Hondas are ICMs, coils, distributor housings, and main relays.

Gotcha. The Main Relay that was replaced this evening was a first shot at a solution. I'm definitely going to get that ICM replaced. I looked up the replacement procedure. I'm sure I can handle it. Thanks again! Have a wonderful evening.

Great! I will use those directions as a guide. I appreciate it!

These sort of problems are almost always distributor related. Let me know how it turns out.

Will do! Thanks a lot for all your help. You've given me info that the Honda techs at two separate dealerships were unable to provide.

Save yourself some money and install an aftermarket ICM and coil. We haven't had any problems with them at AMHD. However, if you ever need to replace the distributor housing, due to a failed bearing and/or internal sensor, only go genuine Honda. All other new aftermarket distributors for Hondas have been problematic.

I'm already on it. Auto Zone has the ICMs for $70.99. The coil was 60 or so bucks.

That should do it.

I certainly hope so. I'll let you know in a week or so.

Okay.

Hello! My 1998 Honda Accord EX recently shut off on me. The dash (RPM, and mileage gauges) went out and the ABS light illuminated. I pulled over and parked. The car ran for about five minutes then shut completely off. I attempted to restart it to no avail. There was no "clicking" when I attempted to restart the ignition and I noticed that my brakes were difficult to push. Also, there was no "turning" of the motor. My windows went up, but they went up slower than usual... almost a drag type of thing. The ignition has already been replace via Honda recall and my main relay has been replaced, also. My security key light did not illuminate in an unfamiliar way, so I do not believe it's an issue with the ignition switch. Usually, I can figure these things out, but I'm not too sure about this one...

. Remove and fully charge the battery. Most auto parts stores will do this for free.

. Test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter.

. Check for codes.

. Check/replace the ignition switch for wear or pitting.

Does the Check Engine Light come on for 2 seconds and then go out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)? My gut is that it's the ignition switch again.

Thanks, Tx! The engine light never came on. We jumped the car; it ran strong for less than five minutes and shut back off. The engine does turn. I'm going to take the battery to Advanced first and then work down your list of suggestions.

Just left Advanced. The battery was at 1, but is supposed to be at 550. DEAD. It's currently being charged. Alternator, perhaps? That's what we'll check next.

Alternator checked out fine. I'll continue to drive the car until we figure this thing out. But, as of right now, the issues appears to have been the battery.