My Bryant plus 80 is not igniting the gas during the cycle I have check all the sensors for continuity and I also checked them during cycling up for the 24-26 vac during the cycle the voltage appears on each side to ground. The gas valve release the gas at the proper time.. When it thinks the ignitor ( glow plug) is on( I don't think the gas valve would even open if the sensors were a problem anyway.. It just doesn't seem it would get that far). The gas turns on and the flame is not sensed because of no glow plug there for the valve shuts back off. Of coarse if cycles there times. The light code idicates an ignition problem. After check fuses and what every and voltage right to the board I have come to believe it is the board unless I am missing something. Now I have found out that the replace board part # is 325878751 ( a conversion brd I guess) but it does not have all the connectors the original brd (Part # HK42FZ009) has when I look at the picture. Is this true? Is the new brd wired differently. I would imagine all of this come with the kit if it is. I would love to look at the direction before I purchase this brd?. Want to make sure it is the replacement brd... I just want to see how it is wired up. MY Question: Does it appear I am on the right trace at this point assuming it is the control brd and do you have or know where I can get the replace meant instructions? Thanks

Most likely it is as simple as a bad glow plug. Check for 120v going to glow plug right before gas valve kicks in. If you get voltage, then the board is doing its job, but the glow plug itself is bad. A glow plug is much cheaper and easier to replace than a control board. So I would start there. Glow plugs (hot surface igniters) work kind of like a light bulb, they burn out.

Thanks for replying..

I didn't mention this I not only checked to see that there was no voltage coming to the ignitor at the time the gas valve was releasing gas... I also put 120 voltage directly right to the ignitor separate from the furnace ( disconnected from board ). It glowed just fine. That was a great reply seeing how I forgot to mention how I checked the ignitor. I even had the board out looking for burn spots bad relay... etc. Somehow the board is not relaying the 120 to the ignitor... unless I am overlooking something.. looking like the brd. Again thanks for the response..

Oh. Well you are correct then. If the gas valve is opening, but the glow plug is not getting voltage, then you most definatley have a bad control board. I actually just came across a unit today that had the same simptoms. I didn't mention it earlier, as most times it is just the glow plug. Good trouble shooting on your part. If no power is being sent to the igniter, yet the gas vavle flows gas, then you have either a bad wire between board and glow plug, or a bad board. Im betting on a bad board at this point. About the replacement board; it should come with instructions, and all adaptable wiring to fit your unit. Seems they are constantly changing things. It can surely be a headache, but should work out just fine. Get that board, and please do let me know how things work out. Take care.

The universal board has the adaptable wiring harness as mygirlsdad77 stated.

Thanks everybody for your help especially "mygirlsdad77". I will get the board and thanks for thet on the back troubleshooting" I do with electrnic boards at work ( copy machine /tshoot shop tech) so I measured a lot on this situation (not an expert on the new furnaces) because the boards are so expensive I thought would be ask to comfirm I was on the right track... I will let you know. Oh, I do here they make reconditioned brds ( I saw on line somewhere) with some warranty but I am not sure it comes with the conversion kit nor do I know how reliable they are... any experience on this ?or where is the place to get the reconditionsed board I should get it from or should I stay away from the recond..
Thanks

Not sure about the recon board. We just take what our suppliers send us, which is new factory boards. If you can find a recon for a great price, and it comes with a warranty, I don't see a problem with that. If your only going to save 20 or 30 bucks, I would opt for the factory new board.

I thought I would give everybody somefeed back on my furnace situation. I did my home work looking up control brd price... after looking at the price of everything I one line and locally I found out that no one gave a warranty once you bought it on line or locally. But I found one place on line called " Air1supply" that sell the ICM ( not OE) conversion control brd ( I checked out the ICM website... very nice). The price on the board was 124.95 no shipping charge and get this... gave me a one year warranty.. so I thought I would take the chance.. I even call them up to confirm the price and warranty. It came in with good instruction new schematic and code label... came with the wiring you needed with the board. I put it in and it works just fine the igniter come on and the furnace lights OK. I left the covers all off for a couple of day to make sure.
But I do have another problem and this one is puzzleing me . When I went put on the covers on the furnace cycled OK but when it got to the ignition... It lit up and immediately shut down.. blows a 34 code. So I took the cover back off make sure safety door switch was not the problem. Bottom line I have analyzed it that when I ever put the one cover on( one with the slits which does allow air to come in ) it blow the error code 34.. ( which is an ignition problem ). Again the igniter comes on and the gas ignites. Cover on it shuts down after liting and blows the code. Cover off works fine... I think I seen it shut down only once with the door off. This would explain why the old brd finally blow.. I remember the shut off and on problem before the ingiter finally didn't come when the brd gave out. So... I checked the chimmy to see if blocked.. not quite sure but I didn't sense a clogged chimney.. it has a top hard to see. It appears there some sort of an air pressure problem or flame sensor is on the verge of blowing... either way I am puzzled. I never have to reset a sensor.. all appears to work and ignite fine with the door off.. It can not be the board and it is not the door switch I have it taped it close. So sorry I am so wordy with this but I like to explaind all so any reading this can be clear what I checked for... Anybody see this problem..? I am sure one day it will finally shut down even with the cover off... something odd is going on with this.. should I clean the flame sensor?. should I check out the force air fan.. ( I have been hearing a small rattling sound for the past two years.)? Don't know.. any suggestions?? Anyone?. Oh, filter is new.. Thanks.. I know this is odd but this is what is actually happening... Thanks in advance

Clean the flame sensor with sand paper and then check it.