20 year old home. Had shower leak 10 years ago. They replaced shower enclosure. Water now drips into ceiling in kitchen. Replaced caulking around base with silicon caulk. Let it dry for 2 days. Showered in it yesterday and water still leaked into kitchen Plumber came out and said the shower drain pipe was not installed correctly. When I would showe, the weight would shift the shower base up and down and the incorrectly installed shower drain pipe had been epoxied on top of the fitting below the shower drain cover. I am not expressing this correctly probably. But some of the epoxy covering this, had exposed an opening around the circumference of the pvc pipe. This is where the water is getting into. It probably has been this way for a few years, as the plumber saw a water spot by the fluorescent fixture in the kitchen. That spot has been there for over 5 years and now there is another spot that is fairly recent. The plumber is quoting a flat rate of $1175 to replace the shower drain pipe.

I asked him if he could just replace the epoxy and he said no he would not as this was not the way to correctly install the shower drain. He said that it wasn't fitted properly. Something about it should have been set further down and only 1 rib had been reached. I am not certain that this was the correct wording. I'm attaching 3 photos. The tan portion in the photos are what appears to be an epoxy that was applied just below the shower drain cover down to the top of the shower drain pvc pipe. The last one has my finger by the area which is where the epoxy has peeled away from the top of the pvc ipe and the gasket. This is where the plumber said the pipe wasn't installed properly and is most likely the source of the water getting into the kitchen ceiling below.

Is this a reasonable price? Of course, then I have to pay for the drywall to be repaired and painted in the kitchen ceiling in addition to the plumbers repair.

Please advise. The plumber is coming over Tuesday morning to do the job. Thank you.

I'd get 3 bids from local reputable plumbers because that quote is on the high side. His reasoning is sound but without personally inspecting I can't say he is taking you for a ride.

Quote:

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$1175 to replace the shower drain pipe.

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And not even repairing the drywall. Boy would I like to have that job.

Run your shower but don't get in it. If shower leaks, go to Home Depot or Lowe's and get a 1/2 iron pipe cap. Remove the shower head and screw on the pipe cap. Turn on shower. If you have a leak the leak is occurring where the shower arm screws into the drop ell.

If shower doesn't leak with you not in it, get one of those flat rubber drain stoppers. Put stopper in place, run shower, fill up shower pan. Turn off shower, step in shower and remove stopper. If shower is leaking around drain it will leak with you in it.
If it doesn't leak, come back and we will look for leak somewhere else.

I ran the shower yesterday without getting into it and it didn't leak. So I got into the shower and walked on the base as if I was taking a shoewer and it did leak. Preciouly, when I tested it the only time it leaked was when my son was in it showering. So I know the leak has to be the drain pipe. So with that, what would be a reasonalbe amount to repair this drain pipe?

Really hard to say with out seeing. Assuming PVC drain pipe, you should have about $50 in material. Should be a couple hours labor if drywall repair is not included. Don't know the going labor rate in your area but I would say $200-300.

Thank you to all. I am having 3 plumbers to give me their best estimates. I'll let you know what the outcome was. But as the first expert suggested, it seems that $1175 is a high price for a few hour job.

Keep in mind your shower pan is installed poorly. There should be nearly zero deflection from your weight. Most pans have instructions on how to lay a mud base or Structolite under the poan before installing

Ok, I'll mention that to the 1st plumber who is supposed to be here in about 20 minutes. I guess if the shower was installed improperly I wonder if I would have any recourse against the firm that installed it 10 years ago.

No recourse after 10 years but let these plumbers tell you what they think. If they do not mention the pan flexing as a problem keep calling other plumbers. It is actually your main issue, the leak was caused by the flex.

The first plumber quoted $450 to no more than $650 to replace the shower drain depending on when he cuts a hole in the kitchen ceiling to determine where the leak is coming from and how much time it will take. 2 others are coming Monday morning. So I'll most likely be canceling the $1175 plumber.

I very seldom will condenm a plumbers pricing online, as I have no idea exactly what they are dealing with, or plan on doing. However, 1175 to repair or replace a shower strainer no matter what material, is just flat out outrageous. Unless they planned on removing the complete shower, and using mortor etc to steady the base, which would be ridiculous. You can add mortor or equivalent from the under side to reiforce the drain areas of the shower in a worst case senerio. You most certainly made the right decision by getting some more quotes. Please let us know the final outcome.

Quote:

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. When I would showe, the weight would shift the shower base up and down and the incorrectly installed shower drain pipe had been epoxied on top of the fitting below the shower drain co I ran the shower yesterday without getting into it and it didn't leak. So I got into the shower and walked on the base as if I was taking a shoewer and it did leak.ver

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Congratulations Fred, You just did a bang up job of analyzing the .problem.
Your plumber was half way correct when he said it wasn't installed correctly but it wasn't the pipe that was put in wrong it was the shower base itself.
In your discussions with these clowns, (epoxy indeed! ) did the word "bedding" ever enter into the conversation? Because not bedding the shower was the beginning of your leak. You were doomed before you took your first shower. When we install a PVC drain (see image) we put a rope of plumbers putty under the lip of the drain. As we tighten the nut the excess putty is squeezed out leaving the drain seal. Over the years as the base flexed and gave the drain seal worked itself out and there's your leak.
Looks like what should have been a simple repair job turned into a major project.
What to do? First off if the old drain's shot cut it out and replace it. Make sure the lip has a rope of putty and the rubber washer goes next to the bottom of the base followed by the fiber friction washer. Tighten the nut until it's tight and lastly, prim band glue the drain pipe to the drain.
Now you can bed the base in. Some plumbers use wood to shore up the base to prevent flexing. I prefer to use cement or mortar. You puddle up the cement until it squeezes next to the base making sure to get plenty around the drain. Do this all over and let it set up and cure before using.
Good luck and I just gave you my best shot. Tom

Thank you Tom. As I am an amateur, I'll have to have a plumber do what you are talking about. I live in the Chicago area, so I am not sure how much this job should cost. Any idea? The plumber that was here this afternoon said $450-$650. He said getting to by cutting into the kitchen ceiling and replacing it should run about 2 hours unless it is more difficult to access. So is he talking about doing what you are recommending. Whoever epoxied that covering under the drain cover, that will all be replaced he said. So I am not sure we are all talking about the same thing or not. I'll print this out and show it to him after they recommend what needs to be done. On Monday, 2 other plumbers are coming over at 7:30am and 9am. After I get their prices, I'll cancel the $1175 job set for Tuesday. What highway robbery, they really have you by the... when you are in dire straits. Fortunately, we do have another shower to use.

I forgot to add the 1st plumber that wants to do the job on Tuesday for $1175 said that the part he is putting in. I am not sure if the wording is correct or not, would be guaranteed for 20 years. I think he said it is glued together. I mentioned it to the plumber who came over on Sat. and said the job would run $450-650 depending on how difficult it might be to get to the pipes through the ceiling. He said when you buy a home it is only warranteed for 1 year and raised a big stink about that 20 year guarantee. I didn't care for his attitude to be perfectly candid. Should I be concerned about a part having a guarantee of 20 years? This 2nd plumber said no one would guarantee the job for 20 years, but again, I said it wasn't the job but the shower drain fitting if that is the correct term. Anyhow, the 3rd and 4th plumber are coming over Monday at 7:30am and 9am so I'll show them your replies after they try on their own to diagnose the real problem here and what it will cost to fix this.

If I can chime in here for Tom, what Tom is saying is that fiberglass shower pans flex. He is also saying that this flexing is what caused the leak. He is saying that proper installation would include doing something to prevent the flexing.

I have a suggestion. Forget the guarantees. The shower drain is PVC. For all intent a purpose PVC last forever. What is not guaranteed is the work.

My suggestion is that you get out your hammer, a step ladder and a drop cloth. You can use the wife's best bed sheet for a drop cloth. You can buy new ones for the money you will save.

Spread out the drop cloth, get up on the step ladder and knock a hole in the ceiling under the shower. Make a hole big enough to see and work. It is just about as easy to repair a big hole in drywall as it is a small one.

Now that you have the ceiling open you can see where the leak is and what you have to do to fix it. So will the plumbers coming on Monday. You never know what problems you will have until you can see what's inside. Therefore, the plumber always to has to say "IF". With the ceiling open you and he both should should know what has to be done and how difficult it will be and how long it will take before you start.

What you are doing is what the plumber will have to do anyway, so you have nothing to loose. You will be able to talk more specifically with the plumber and even if you don't know what you are talking about, the plumbers won't know that. It makes a difference.

What you will probably find is the shower drain is very close to a floor joist, making properly tightening the drain difficult. Who knows, you may be able to tighten the nut that attaches the drain to the shower pan and stop the leak.

Working with PVC is not that difficult. This is a fairly simple repair for a plumber. It is as much or more work to repair the ceiling as is is to stop the leak.

Open up that ceiling and post some pictures and we can probably tell you exactly what has to be done.

As I said, this has ballooned up from a simple repair job to a major project. Harold's suggesting that to save on labor cost you do the "scut" work and bare the bottom of the drain and trap. I agree with him, plus you can see for yourself instead or taking someone's word.
Fred! If you've never listened to my recommendations listen to me now.
All the new parts and all the labor that you put into this repair will all be for nothing unless THE SHOWER BASE IS BEDDED IN because if the base still gives and flexes you will have the same problem on down the line,
Not being bedded caused this problem in the first plac.
Follow Harolds excellent advice and open up the ceiling.
Please keep informed of your progress. Good luck, Tom

Hello Harold,

Excellent advises sory it wouldn't let me give you a positive rate, Thanks.

John

I am little late to this conversation, but my advice to you is: stay away from the plumber who wanted to charge you $1,150.00.
As far as the "glued part" goes... it is P-trap that should be always glued when installed in the ceiling.
Good luck... Milo

I mentioned in posts #7 and #9 that the pan is poorly installed. 9 out of 10 pans must be set in mud, compound, structolite, etc... but there are a few that require no bedding. Movement in a plumbing fixture or piping system is a disaster waiting to happen.

When I said I walked around the shower when it was running to determine if the gasket in the shower drain was giving due to the shower pan flexing, I saw that from an ThisOldHouse Video on tYouTube that the plumber Richard mentioned. I cannot say for the sure that the base is flexing nor can I say when they put in the replacement shower enclosure 10 years to fix a shower leak. I wonder if they even replaced the shower drain. That water stain by the fluorescent light fixture in the kitchen has been there at least 6 or 7 years. I thought it was from the light fixture but that $1175 plumber said it was a water stain. I know the insurance company adjuster that was out here last week said they will not take care of the plumbing repair just the damage that resulted. If they have to rip out the shower enclousr to fix the problem, I wonder if they will cover that. 10 years ago when I was with the previous insurance company they paid for the entire repair to rip out the shoewer enclosure, paint the bathroom, fix the kitchen ceiling where they accessed to assess the originail problem and paint the ceiling. Would you have the insurance company adjuster come back out prior to doing this job? I don't want to start cutting holes in the ceiling myself. I am really not very good with stuff like that. I did silicone caulk the base and I thought that would have been the source of the leak, but as I said much earlier in the original post, it did not. I tend to agree with Tom that there must be some flexing and then there is that epoxy crack at the top of the pvc pipe where I think the water is getting into. I watched another video This Old Handyman and he said he would just try to patch it with silicone and see if that fixed the problem. But I think that is just a banaid fix. I feel that the problem was never fixed when they ripped out the 20 yr. old shower enclosure 10 years ago, and as Tom pointed out never put down the proper bedding. Richard from This Old House suggested using a plater of Paris bedding to get a good solid base to prevent any flexing. But a little bit of knowledge can be dangerous in this humble writer's hand!!