I was driving home from work, and my 96 dodge neon was driving and handling smoothly. Suddenly, the engine just died! When I pulled the car to the side of the road, I waited a few minutes to try to restart it, and it would not restart. Could this be a timing belt issue, and if so, would I have noticed anything different prior to the car stalling?

It could easily be a TB issue and end just like what happened to you.

Also, if the TB is fine, check for codes and check all under hood and under dash fuses; particularly, focus on the Crankshaft Position Sensor and Camshaft Position Sensor. When you turn the ignition switch to ON, does the Check Engine Light come on for 2 seconds and then go out? During this 2 second interval, can you hear the fuel pump run?

In order to help you, I need more information. When you try to start the engine, does the starter turn it? And if the starter turns it, does the engine sound normal while cranking? You could have a failed fuel pump or just a clogged fuel filter. Usually, if a timing belt breaks (or some of its ribs come off it, allowing a change in valve timng), the engine will sound very odd while cranking it because the four cycles it normally goes though (intake, compression, combustion, exhaust, then repeat), will be upset by the valves not opening and closing in their normal timing relationship.

The engine does crank normaly when I try to start the car. The crank shaft sensor, and cam shaft position sensor were both replaced.. Crank shaft sensor was replaced about 1 year ago, and the cam shaft position sensor and an o2 sensor were reaplced within the last 5 months.

Also... I can hear the fuel pump turn on when I turn the ignition. No check engine light came on just before the car died. The check engine light does come on when I turn the ignition, but it goes out after about 2 seconds, and I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the ignition on. I am the second owner of this car, and from what I understand, the timing belt was never changed in the car.

It's looking more like something happened to the TB--should be easy enough to check. Have a friend crank the starter motor, while you remove the oil filler cap and see if the camshaft rotates.

Thank both for the assistance! I know nothing about repairing a vehicle, and this just through me for a loop because the car actually runs great for it's age! Someone also mentioned a sensor of sorts might cause this when the engine gets too hot? Again, I'm not a mechanic, and aside from putting the key in the ignition, and sarting the car, I know nothing! LOL The car is at the mechanic, and I have been waiting for his diagnosis. I did get a free tow out of this.. Not sure why that was, but I did not argue! LOL Thanks again, your help has been much appreciated!

Keep us posted.

Tell your mechanic (if he or she is not certain what the problem is), to try spraying a SHORT spray (maybe one to two seconds) of starting fliud into the air intake hose (disconnected) at the air filter output end), and then immediately (as in, having a helper) crank the engine. If it fires at all (even for a second or two), the problem(s) your car has, include lack of adequate fuel delivery. DO NOT use too much (or repeated) applications of starting fluid, or you could do serious internal engine damage! Your problem could be fuel pump (yes, it runs but does it PUMP?), or a fuel pickup problem (screen clogged?) or a pinched fuel line, or a clogged fuel filter. Or perhaps the fuel injectors are not working due to a wiring problem or a controller failure. But if you have NO engine starting using starting fluid, you may have an ignition failure. If the check engine light is coming on for a short time, then going out, that is normal, intended as a circuit check procedure, and does not indicate error codes are present. If you had a sensor failure, it should cause one or more error codes and the check engine light should NOT go off on its own, with the ingnition key on. Of course, if the camshaft is not turning, the engine will not run at all, so that is a critical check!