Hi:

On Thu 17 Jan 2008, TxGreaseMonkey said in his answer "Check Connector (SCC): Reading OBD-1 Codes" that once the service connector was jumped the series of CEL flashes would indicate a problem. But my CEL light just stays on when I jump the connector. Is this a Code 0 meaning that the ECU is bad? Or is this a no-code meaning that the ECU is good?

I have changed the plugs, wires, distributor, swapped out a good main relay (mine is good), and here's the strange thing - when I turn the key to the "ON" position the CEL comes on, I hear the fuel pump and a click after about 2-3 seconds when the CEL goes out which is all normal which I believe indicates that the ECU is good? Or not? I checked the fuel line - I have fuel flowing but no spark.

I just don't want to change the ECU for nothing! I already have changed everything everyone has suggested!

Thanks!

Suessy

If the CEL comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), which it sounds like it does, the ECM is likely fine and the problem is with the distributor. Over 50% of new aftermarket distributors for Hondas don't work at AMHD. I only recommend genuine Honda distributor housings, where it's fine to install an aftermarket ICM and coil to keep the cost down.

If you bought a complete aftermarket distributor, I'd try and exchange it for another. Still, it's preferable for reliability and performance to go Honda.

If you perform the K-Test on your ECM, I bet it will show 5 volts:

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it’s probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate. Many Hondas parked for several years are now back on the road. "The K-Test creates massive value, by providing a low cost solution where one did not previously exist."--TxGM

Thanks so much for getting back to me so fast! I bought the distributor on kijiji.ca from a local young man who owns a garage in the area and they repair Hondas (I think it's just a home garage where they have installed a lift, etc.) and I spoke to the father who said they pulled the working distributor from a working 1993 Honda Civic and he asked me some questions and I'm pretty convinced of their honesty so I don't think it's a distributor problem. But I'll try to get the rotor off this used distributor (it's stuck tightly on there!) and check the coil and ignitor. I am *definitely* going to immediately check the MAP sensor stuff that you recommend! Thanks!

My gut is it's definitely a distributor issue. They invariably are, if the CEL goes on and off normally.

I would ask for a refund, buy a genuine Honda distributor housing, and install an aftermarket ICM and coil. You need reliability you can trust. You don't want the distributor to fail at 70 mph in the left lane, during rush hour. There are a lot of junk distributors on the market for Hondas.

I will talk to the Dad of the young man who sold me the distributor but it is definitely a genuine Honda distributor - exactly like my own that I removed. The Dad, as I said, is a Honda mechanic and I'm sure he will live up to his promise of it working. I'll let you know! But I am doing the K-test tomorrow morning - again - I'll let you know. I really appreciate your help with this. I have received such great help from car experts on DoItYourself.com and ErictheCarGuy on YouTube, I can't believe how much everyone knows. There is so much to learn but I am getting there!

Suessy

If you believe the distributor housing is good, try replacing its ICM and coil. Should it still not work, install the new ICM and coil in a new genuine Honda distributor housing.

OK - will do.

Thanks!

It'll take me a while to get the dang rotor screw off but where there's a will...

Use a precision Phillips head #2 from a bit driver set.

Hi TxGreaseMonkey:

Will do for that Phillips head screwdriver. But get this... I checked the fuses and all of the under-hood ones made a test light light up BUT only a few of the under-dash ones did. The ones that did *not* light up at all even with the key on "ON" (and I tested them even with the clutch in) were all just dead - I changed them but I got nothin': STARTER SIGNAL 7.5A, TAIL LIGHT/INSTRUMENT LIGHT/LICENSE LIGHT 10A, R HEADLIGHT LOW BEAM 10A, L HEADLIGHT LOW BEAM 10A, R HEADLIGHT HIGH BEAM 10A, L HEADLIGHT HIGH BEAM. Strangely enough, if you look at the set up of the fuse box, these are all the fuses right in the middle which are actually there - the others in the middle I don't need because I didn't buy the daytime running lights model, or the power windows, but I'm betting they wouldn't light up either.

Also, I checked the voltage across the + socket (yel/red)on the MAP connector with a body ground (didn't know where the thermostat housing was) and I got 0.01 and then just for the heck of it as it says it the manual, I checked the voltage across this socket (yel/red) and the one left to it (grn/wht) and I got 5.1V and the left 2 sockets (wht and grn/wht) and I got 4.69V. So then I just thought I'd, for fun, at this point because I really am totally confused now, check the voltage across the distributor 2P connector (blk/yel wire) and ground and I got nothing! I don't know if this means anything (I think this is the ignition output signal?) or if the clutch has to be in?

If this is getting too confusing for you too, let me know. Holy cow! I'll still be checking the distributor though.

Thanks again!

Suessy

Power to Distributor Test. Turn ignition OFF. Disconnect the 2-P connector from the distributor. Turn the ignition switch ON. Measure voltage between BLK/YEL (+) terminal and body ground. There should be 12+ volts read. If not, repair an open in BLK/YEL wire between the 2-P connector and ignition switch.

If the wiring is good, check the ignition switch for wear, pitting, or melting.

OK - will do it again. Thanks!