I am planning to build a 12x12 shed on moderate slope. We have 42" frost line where I live so I'll be drilling some fairly deep holes :-( About 1/3 to 1/2 of the shed will sit on pretty level ground but the remaining part will be hanging up in the air where the grade steepens. I figure I'll have to build what amounts to a ground-level deck to use as the base for the shed. So, with that in mind I drew up a plan that I think might work but want some expert advice and also wondering if there is a better, easier, and/or cheaper way to accomplish the same thing. Any advice would be appreciated, thanks!

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I assume you will check on all local codes but you should tell us what will go inside this shed. 9 sonotubes of concrete looks a bit like overkill for a shed. Where is the door and how big? On the door side 2 tubes, 1 in each corner should suffice with aheader over the doorway. Is this a shed roof and if so the right and left walls will not be load bearing so 2 tubes should do it. All tubes must be a full 42" below grade. Back to you

Ok, sorry I was sort of in a rush. Yes, I will get a permit and follow all local codes. The shed is a "Clerestory" style roughly 12x12x12. It will be built with 2x4 studs 16" on center. There will be one double door (two 30" doors for 60" total). It will house a mower, snow blower, pressure washer, a couple of bicycles, and various tools.

The plans show a wood foundation resting on 8x8x16 solid concrete blocks. I'm now thinking that would be much easier assuming I can stack a couple of blocks on the slope end. This would make it a 'floating' foundation and would avoid having to dig and pour piers. It would certainly be easier but would it be sufficient and last? I'm attaching my various drawings below.

Thanks for the response and any advice, ballengerb1.

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Yes the last drawing is much simpler but remember to check yuour codes to be sure it allows a shed to float. Mine does

I'm pretty certain floating sheds are OK, they are all over around here and permitted accordingly (though most are just on 'skids').

I'm thinking the outer (slope) end might only need 2 blocks stacked... hard to tell until I start excavating and trying to level the 4 rows of blocks.

Also, I beefed up the outer (load bearing) joists by adding additional 2x4's (the plans called for 2 and I figured a 3rd wouldn't hurt).

Do you have any advice on setting the blocks? The ground around here is pretty much solid clay. I assume I would place them on some gravel or crushed rock base. And, if so, should I compact it? I'd like to know that they'll be where I place them after 5 or 6 winters :-)

Thanks again.

I can't give you any further info since I don't know where you live and what codes you must follow. Kind of have a suspicion you're not pulling a permit so I'm afarid of giving you advice which may get you into hot water. Yes I'd dig down past all loom and lay crusted gravel with fines and compact every 2". In my area I have to fill the blocks with concrete and rebar also anchoring the perimeter to the block with steel anchor bolts into the crete. Treated lumber for the base too. Other than that I'd really suggest a discussion with the local building department, I built one without a permit and it did not go well when I got a visit from the inspector.

I'm not sure what I've said that leads you to believe I won't pull a permit... I fully intend to do so and just want to have a good plan to present to the inspector (which is why I'm seeking advice.)

I'm in Iowa so our climates are similar and I suspect the soil condtions may be too. I had planned to use solid blocks which is what the plan calls for but it sounds like you're describing the hollow blocks (that you fill with concrete & rebar). I guess I would have to use those if it were required to put j-bolts up through the base plate (if that is what you were saying). Guess I will have to see what the inspector says I can and can't do.

Correct, at some point you need to know the codes. There are many ways of building things but codes varyand dictate what you can do. RE: the block, plans may say soild block but you will have a heck of the time finding such a block and then putting an anchoring bolt through it. I'd go with cement block which can be filled with concrete and rebar, large anchor bolt sticks up so the treated floor plate can sit down over it

Ok, thanks for the help. I'll give the building inspector a call and get some specifics on what is allowable and what isn't.

This is a great information for the people who are looking for building a shed. Thanks for sharing keep on updating the good work .