OK, So I am going to replace the Main Switch Relay. If that fails I will try the ignition coil and then the ignitor. The Check Engine light came on this morning and didn't turn off. So I got to get to work to start replacing the parts on my car before it gets worst. My question is does anyone know on Auto Parts Fast at RockAuto which kind of ignition coil and ignitor to purchase? When I go to look up those parts on rockauto.com under my 98 Honda specs it brings up 3 different ignition coils and ignitors. Which one is it? I know a little about cars the basics you might say and I'll be replacing these parts myself. Which leaves me to ask also does anyone know of a website that can provide step by step directions with some illustration on how to replace the ignitor and the ignition coil for a 98 Honda? Or should I just purchase the Haynes Manual?

Read sections A and B in the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ics-46563.html

Information is also applicable to Accords--you didn't say whether you had a Civic or an Accord. Also, you should have specified your car model and engine. Be sure and run the K-Test on your ECM.

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Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

Read sections A and B in the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ics-46563.html

Information is also applicable to Accords--you didn't say whether you had a Civic or an Accord. Also, you should have specified your car model and engine. Be sure and run the K-Test on your ECM.

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I go to turn it on (not to start the car) and the Check Engine Light doesn't turn off. I then try to start and all I hear is a click and nothing else. The click sound is out somewhere in the engine. My fuel pump is fine I can hear it winding when I turn on the car. I read the test in the link you provided. What's the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse?

1998 Honda Accord 4Dr
Engine
Type: Aluminum Alloy: In-Line 4-Cyl.
Displacement (liters): 2.3
Horsepower @ rpm (SAE net): 135 @ 5400
Torque (lb.-ft. @ rpm): 145 @ 4700
Compression Ratio: 8.8: 1
Valve Train: SOHC: 16-Valve
Fuel System: Multi-Point Fuel Injection
Ignition System: Electronic w/Immobilizer

What model--DX, LX, or EX?

Don't worry about the igniter or coil, at this point. Your problem is with an under-dash fuse--ACG (ALT) (S) , ECM, main relay, or ignition switch. The ACG (ALT) (S) fuse controls power to the main relay. Run tests in that order. All of your attention must be directed to getting the CEL to go off.

Follow the steps outlined in the link and test all under-dash and under-hood fuses.

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Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

What model--DX, LX, or EX?

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Sorry about that. It's a DX. Thanks for your help.

Read section CC on igniter and coil replacement:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...s-46563-4.html

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Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

Read section CC on igniter and coil replacement:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...s-46563-4.html

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Thanks a lot this helps me.
What is the best way to maintenance and take care of the A/C system?

Honestly, taking it to Honda or a shop specializing in Honda/Acuras. Don't let just anyone work on your A/C system--I have seen horror stories.

If you decide to replace your igniter, the best thing for you to do is look at your current one, to ensure you order the right one from RockAuto.com.

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Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

If you decide to replace your igniter, the best thing for you to do is look at your current one, to ensure you order the right one from RockAuto.com.

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That's what I was going to do. It actually looks pretty easy to replace. Thanks!

You had mention on one of the questions that the Transmission is a sensitive matter for Honda and that maintaining it is important for a long lasting. I have noticed when my Honda slows down (on an automatic transmission) to down shift it jerks a little on the first gear. It doesn't happen all the time but it has happened several times. It usually occurs when I'm in a parking lot just rolling I may accelerate a little and then when I slow down (without pressing on the brake) to the 1st gear that's when it jerks. Is my tranny giving me signs that it will fail soon? If it is I may consider getting another car. This was my 1st Honda and in a way with having some problems with this Honda I'm very disappointed.
Thanks for the help! TX! I've learned a lot.

Try draining the transmission and refilling with Mobil 1 Synthetic Multi-Vehicle ATF. Drain when transmission is hot. Simple job that pays huge dividends.

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Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

Try draining the transmission and refilling with Mobil 1 Synthetic Multi-Vehicle ATF. Drain when transmission is hot. Simple job that pays huge dividends.

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Well I changed out the Main Relay today. The bad news is it did not fix the problem. I guess now it's time to move onto the ignitor, coil, and cap. It's a little frustrating it had the symptoms of others and the main relay fixed their problem. But it didn't fix mine. I had to drive to the next town to buy it.

Run the K-Test, before doing anything else. You are not following my advice and focusing on getting the CEL to go out. If you don't get the CEL to go out, replacing the igniter, coil, and distributor cap won't make any difference.

Did you test all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

Run the K-Test, before doing anything else. You are not following my advice and focusing on getting the CEL to go out. If you don't get the CEL to go out, replacing the igniter, coil, and distributor cap won't make any difference.

Did you test all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter?

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The CEL is no longer there. But the reason why it's probably not there because when I went to change the main relay I disconnected the negative cable from the battery. At least that's what the parts person at Honda instructed me to do. I think disconnecting the battery reseted the computer and abled the CEL to go out or I guess I had 2 problems the main relay and the same starting problem. The main relay is now fixed but that starting problem still exist. I'll Run the K-Test.

What's the status of the fuses?

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Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

What's the status of the fuses?

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Everything is OK on the fuses

If the CEL goes out and you record 5 volts, after running the K-Test, then the igniter and coil is next on the agenda.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

If the CEL goes out and you record 5 volts, after running the K-Test, then the igniter and coil is next on the agenda.

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You I was just going to tell you how many volts and it is 5 volts. I'm thinking it's the coil. Another person also from this website just emailed me that she had the same problem as I did and it was her coils because she never changed the spark plugs and they got damaged. It cost like $600.00 at the dealership she said. It looks simple to fix though.
But TX I know your busy I just wanted to tell you thanks a million for your help. I really appreciate it.

My recommendation is to replace both igniter and coil--they both are problematic.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

My recommendation is to replace both igniter and coil--they both are problematic.

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I'll do that this weekend. Now will my car stall if I keep driving it like this? I'm going to try to have it fixed tomorrow but at the same time I need my car today to run some errands.