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I have a 2 year old mini dachshund that barks, whines, scratches and pees in her kennel all night or every time I leave. When I got her as a puppy she was crate trained, she's never loved it but she seems to have gotten worse. I have tried different crates, bedding, toys, covering the crate, shaking a can with penny's when she whines... etc. Nothing is working!! I take her out at night right before bed and limit her water in the evening. HELP!! I don't know what to do.
Putting puppy pads in the crate will only confirm to the dog that it's okay to potty in the crate. Very bad advice.Quote:
Originally Posted by calkins10
Getting a bigger crate is also bad advice. The dog should be able to stand up, turn, around, lie down, and that's it. If the crate is too big you're asking for more behavior issues.
To the original poster. I have a few questions.
1. How old is the dog?
2. How long is she in the crate during the day?
3. How often is she taken for a walk, and how long do your walk her?
4. Has she been checked for any medical issues?
Time to read the rules. My post was not at all incorrect. Yours however was, and would be deserving of a negative rating.Quote:
calkins10 does not find this helpful : very bad advice. I am just trying to make her life easier you know not picking up crap and pee everyday and it doesn't reassure her. Did u ever think the crate could be too small?hm?and if your not stupid it says she 2 YEARS OLD! So don't tell me wron
I did miss the age of the dog, but that's a minor point, and not worthy of a reddie (negative rating).
You however would deserve a negative rating. Suggesting that the OP (original poster) put a puppy pad in the crate, that's the worst advice ever. In fact, puppy pads period are not a good training device, but to put one in a crate is by far the worst advice I've ever heard.
Also, suggesting that the OP get a larger crate, when you yourself admit that you have no idea how large the crate is, is also horrible advice. That's why I wrote down in detail how large the crate should be, because we weren't told.
I'm far from stupid. It's takes more then owning a dog to give advice in the dog forum. You posted horrible advice, I corrected it.
I suggest you read the rules of the site before you post any more. Also, in the dog forum we don't take too kindly to people guessing. If you don't know what to do, which you obviously don't, then leave it to those that do have the answers. :(
Calkins, I highly suggest you do some research on training before you start posting here. We love and welcome new members who can offer VALUABLE advice.
Puppy pads are very confusing to dogs and puppies. You are allowing him to pee in the house, and on top of something, he can't differentiate between a pee pad and a piece of carpet or anywhere else in the house. When pee pads are used the puppy never really understands why it is okay to eliminate inside sometimes, but not always. Why can it pee on this piece of cloth, but not that one? Why pee here, but not there?
Truthfully unless you want a dog to eliminate indoors all the time, they do not work and should not be used with pups older than eight weeks of age.
The best way to train a puppy for house training is the crate method. The crate is not used as a punishment, but rather as a den. The puppy does not want to mess in its den so is taken outside several times a day. As it gets older it can hold its bladder and bowls longer and longer (also better food means less poop).
A crate is supposed to represent a den, and a den in the wild is small. Only big enough for them to stand up, lay down and turn around in. Any bigger then that, and they will designate a bathroom area. Your dog seems to be suffering from separation anxiety. How many hours a day are you away? If you are gone a full day, why are you crating at night? Seems that he is spending most of his life in a crate. If you must crate at night, are you able to bring the crate into your room? Have you tried leaving soft music on during the day? This seems to sooth a lot of dogs that suffer from anxiety.
What is your exercise routine like when you are home? A tried dog, is a happy dog! Have you ever considered obedience training? The more commands a dog knows the more secure they are.
For the time being I would remove all bedding and toys from the cage, and only use the pan that belongs in the crate. Sounds cruel I know, but it will help with the "mistakes" while you are away.
She is almost 2 years old, crated 1 day a week for 5 hours Im home any other time. I crate her at night cause I can't trust that she won't pee on the carpet or try to get in my bed, I don't do the whole sleeping with the dog thing. She gets walked at least 8 times a day 10-20min walks. I also don't do puppy pads, always believed that they would just teach the dog to pee in the house, good to know I was right on that.
She is in perfect health, doc hinted at separation anxiety, but gave no advice to help.
Thank you everyone for the advice.
It definitely sounds like separation anxiety.Quote:
Originally Posted by audreysowner
This is fixable, but it's not easy, and it's not quick. I'll ask Bella (Aurora bell) to answer this one because she has lots of experience with this sort of thing. Sadly I know she's already in bed, so you'll have to check back tomorrow to see her reply.
I'll PM her and let her know, I'll also PM our other dog pro Shazamataz. I've never had to deal with separation anxiety. I do know what to do, in theory, but Bella has dealt first hand with dogs with this issue, so she's definitely the expert you need in this case. :)
** Apologizing in advance for the super long post**
Thanks for the kind words Alty :) Yes, unfortunately I do have lots of experience with anxiety and the joys it brings. So, to better understand your situation, I just need a few quick questions. How long have you had your pup, how old was she when you got her, and where did she come from? Pet store pups, have the worst issues when it comes to housebreaking.
To start, try to make your arrivals and departures very boring and low-key. Don't make a big fuss over saying hello and goodbye. Be very casual and up-beat. Get your dog used to your getting-ready-to-leave cues, like picking up keys and jacket. Go through these actions repeatedly during the time when you're staying home, without actually leaving. If your dog has already learned to associate his fears with your departure cues, it will take a lot of repetitions before the dog will get it.
Throughout your time together, do not give in to your dog's demands for your attention. If he comes to you whining, pawing, barking, jumping, jumping into your lap, or rubbing up against your hand, quietly turn away from him (you can stand up a little slowly to softly dump a small dog out of your lap). Wait until your dog is doing something else that is acceptable (not demanding your attention), and then call him over for some attention. Remember, if your dog can get your attention on demand any time you are home, it will be an even sharper contrast when you are gone.
Another thing I highly recommend is protocols for relaxation and deference. Meaning your dog no longer gets ANY attention or ANY treats from you for free anymore. Asking your dog to sit for 5-15 seconds before hand is all you need to do.
I know it sounds silly to do all this stuff, when your dog is messing in the crate, but it's her state of mind that needs to be reset.
Next, pick a day (or two) when you can practice desensitization without having to actually leave - a weekend is a pretty good time to start.
Figure out what begins your dog's anxiety. Is it when you put on your work shoes? Brush your hair? Pick up your keys? Find the earliest item in your getting-ready-to-go sequence that makes your dog anxious. Then practice doing that action, over and over again, until your dog is no longer anxious about it. For example, put on your work shoes, then take them off, then put them on again, over and over. You don't need to talk to your dog or do anything else special. Act just like you do every morning when you put on those shoes. When your dog is no longer anxious when you put on your shoes, move to the next step in your normal morning sequence; perhaps brushing your hair. (Note that if your dog's anxiety does not decrease after several repetitions, you are probably not working on the first item in your getting-ready-to-go sequence, and you'll need to back up).
Repeat this exercise several times a day (5-10 times if possible), starting each sequence at a time when the dog is relaxed. Do NOT repeat the exercise if your dog seems MORE anxious when you start, or if he can't settle down in between repetitions, or if he follows and watches you MORE between exercises.
You will have to spend a LOT of time with the early items in your getting-ready-to-go sequence, but as your dog learns to deal with this sort of thing, it will get easier. Opening up the front door (presumably the last item in your getting-ready-to-go sequence) will take fewer repetitions than the first item (putting on work shoes, in this example).
When you've worked through your whole getting-ready-to-go sequence and your dog is no longer anxious, you're ready for your first absence session. Up to now, your dog with separation anxiety has associated absences with intense anxiety. The dog has to now learn to associate absences with a lack of anxiety, or calmness. You and the dog will practice being apart from each other for very short lengths of time - the time that your dog can handle - and you will gradually practice longer and longer lengths.
Try to make interactions with your dog on your terms, not his. You pet him, treat him, or play with him when you want, and not when he asks for it.
Here is an article written by the SPCA, for some reason, I could only find Medicine Hat's copy of it, but they are all the same. It has some additional great tips that you will find useful in helping to understand separation anxiety. Your vet probably didn't touch much on it, as they don't usually have a lot of knowledge on behaviors. If you can afford it, a behaviorist is your best bet.
Education : Separation Anxiety in Dogs
Ive had her since she was 15 weeks old, she'll be 2 years old next month and I got her from a breeder. Thank you for the advice.
We are trying to sleep through the night. We feed her twice a day, once in the morning and once at night from 7 to 7:30 pm. We then take her for a 30 minute walk at 8 and give her one more chance to relieve her self again again at 10 before going to bed at 10:30. We are up again at 6 am. However, since January, she she started whining in the mornings as early as 4 and banging and rattling her cage. It is impossible to sleep. We can't figure what changed in our routine to start the anxiety. I haven't identify anything that changed since we moved in September. She never acted this way for the two years we've onwed her since adopting her from the breeder. She was also fine for the four months since we moved from September until January when she started waking us in the mornings. We try not to reward her behavior. We've tried the bean jar, the squirt gun and just tyring to ignore her. She still cries and crashes around in her cage denying all in the house a good night's sleep.
I hope this gives you more clues as to our problem and a lead on a solution
I would try feeding her earlier in the evenings. It sounds like you are giving her enough opportunity to relieve her self, but it's worth a try. I wouldn't be able to tell you exact;y what is stressing her out, seeing as I can't actually see her, but the advice I have given should be a good start in stopping the behavior.
I have to ask. Have you taken her to the vet to see if this is a medical issue? She could have a bladder infection, or something else could be going on. It's never a bad idea to rule out the medical when a dogs behavior suddenly changes.
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