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-   -   Chunk of rust in tub when clothes are done. What's the source? (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=563238)

  • Mar 18, 2011, 08:38 AM
    SkipW
    Chunk of rust in tub when clothes are done. What's the source?
    The latest piece is 1-1/4" x 7/8" x 1/16". Have been seeing these flakes of rust for several weeks but this is the largest and this one appears to have some white paint about 3/8" square on one side. I was having balance problems on the spin cycle but discovered that the machine had gone out of level. After leveling, it runs fine. Washer is a Kenmore Elite mod 110.23012100 ser cm1511577 type 111. It's a top-load unit. Does this mean I should start shopping for a new machine?
  • Mar 18, 2011, 08:52 AM
    summer_girl
    I would keep an eye on it, but I'd also shop just in case. I think it depends on how long it can stay in balance, and if an attempt at repairing the balance is too costly to bother with. A lot depends on how old it is. If nothing else it would be good to get familiar with all of the different features available now, and decide if you would want to make the switch to a front loader when the time comes since those are the more prevalent model any more.
  • Mar 18, 2011, 08:01 PM
    ma0641
    Run your hand around the top of the washer drum. Any rust? Sounds like the drum porcelain has disintegrated and is flaking off.
  • Mar 19, 2011, 05:10 PM
    desipearson
    Get a new washer.the front loaders are more expensive and I think are harder to repair.top loaders use more water but cost less and when something does go wrong it costs less to repair. Easier to move and repair.front loaders have big counter weights made of concrete. The seal on the door fails often and leaks. Good luck.
  • Mar 20, 2011, 11:05 AM
    drtom4444
    It is possible that you have calcium and iron buildup in your washer. You can get some Lime-Away, fill washer and pour it in and let it sit for a few hours. This should remove any buildup. DrTom4444
  • Mar 21, 2011, 09:35 AM
    SkipW
    Comment on summer_girl's post
    I will start researching the newer models. When the serviceman came he found nothing wrong with the machine except that it had gone out of level. He charged me $60 just to do that and I had to redo it after he left because he didn't do a very good job! Hate to think what it would have cost if something was wrong with the machine. At least I learned how to get it open so I can take a look, myself, in the future.
  • Mar 21, 2011, 09:43 AM
    SkipW
    Comment on ma0641's post
    Just reaching in through the top I don't find any rust around the top or see any inside the tub at all. Since I now know how to open the machine I'll do that and remove the plastic piece that goes around the top of the tub and see if it is hiding some. It seems like a funny place to rust since the tub does not fill all the way! But, that last large chunk did look like it might be what you say.
  • Mar 21, 2011, 09:54 AM
    SkipW
    Comment on desipearson's post
    Thanks for the tips. I made the decision to stay with a top loader this last time with all mechanical controls and it has served us well for several years. I'm hoping it will heal itself and keep on keeping on, chuckle. But, I will read the latest reports and see what folks are saying. The simplified motion and water savings of a front loader does appeal to me. Do they really require a special kind of detergent? That's something I control with my present machine by eye-balling the suds and water level instead of just blindly measuring per load size, so I figure I've been saving on water and detergent through the years! Granted, it does take a little longer that way!
  • Mar 21, 2011, 10:01 AM
    SkipW
    Comment on drtom4444's post
    I'm open to any possibilities. If you look at the size of chunk I described, you can imagine a mighty big buildup. Where would this occur in the machine. Would it be beneath the agitator where I can't see it or some other place. All of the tub that is normally visible is smooth and shines not the dull appearance of the usual calcium deposits seen around faucets, etc.
  • Mar 21, 2011, 10:36 AM
    summer_girl
    Most of the new machines are what's called high-efficiency, and yes if you buy one then you need to change to an HE detergent. They'll never make suds like you're familiar with, but the reality is that it's always been the water and the agitation that does most of the cleaning. The HE detergents are more expensive, but they're concentrated so you don't use as much. You definitely should measure HE products out, even if you get a top loader. I replaced my dying machine with another top loader because of concerns I'd heard about with residual water in the front loader doors leading to mold growth. This may have been corrected in most models but the concern stayed with me. I think some of them will even let you add more laundry once the cycle has begun, but all top loaders allow that.
  • Mar 22, 2011, 09:58 AM
    SkipW
    Comment on summer_girl's post
    Thanks for the info. I'll certainly keep it in mind if my machine doesn't heal itself!
  • Mar 22, 2011, 10:02 AM
    SkipW
    Comment on ma0641's post
    I opened the machine and removed the top plastic ring so I have good access for eyeball and hands. Everything looks perfect. I cannot imagine how the chunk and flakes get into it unless with the water or they are coming from under the agitator. Any other ideas?

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