I need help, I read so many posts on here, TXgreasemokey seemed to be most helpful.
Here is my situation
I have 2000 civic EX, runs great normally never had an issue, Maintenance has been done at or before every interval. And I do have a mechanic in the family to help with things.

I started having a starting issue (after the car sat for more than a few hours) Everything I looked up, was misleading, Most sites cover won't start when hot.
I did a complete tune up, first
Then changed 2 sensors, the ECT engine coolant temp sensor
And sensor that my brother pointed to as being a culprit, that had nothing to do with starting, but I changed it, because he does know about old cars.

Description of my problem, come out to start it, I will have to crank and crank it, and eventually almost flood it, then it will start. If I crank it without pushing the gas pedal down it will not start,, and the WEIRD part is, It always seemed to start,when I was letting the key go, (so as the ignition tumbler was returning to off) it would catch..
I did not replace or test the ignitor yet, or the map sensor, which might be culprits, (from everything I have read)
I'm throwing a used map sensor in soon.
But the issue is, once it starts, it runs like a dream, and when it is warm, starts right up,so could these parts be bad, if they only don't work when cold..?
Maybe the main relay?
Please lend me some advice
[email protected] if you want to E-mail me directly

Action Plan:

1. Check the ignition switch--your description makes it suspect.

2. Attach a scan tool to the DLC and check for codes. A code appearing for the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor, Top Dead Center/Crankshaft Position/Cylinder Position Sensor, or MAP Sensor would likely "nail" the cause of the problem. The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor provides input to the ECM for providing, if necessary, a rich fuel mixture. Therefore, it wasn't necessarily bad that your brother replaced this sensor. These are prime areas to check out.

3. When the engine is started, the ECM is supposed to provide a rich mixture by increasing injector duration; therefore, run the K-Test on your ECM, particularly when it's cold and the engine won't start. The MAP Sensor is the "key sensor" on Hondas, so you will want to thoroughly check out the connection and operation of this sensor. Check vacuum hose connections. They rarely go bad, which is good since they are so expensive.

4. Read sections A and B, in the link below, and perform tests:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ics-46563.html

5. Replace fuel filter.

6. Make sure spark plugs (NGK only), spark plug wires, rotor, igniter, coil, and distributor cap are in great shape.

7. Give plan to your brother to execute.

OK, I should have been more detailed
First off thanks for your quick response and help
We did do a tune up, cap rotor, NEW NGK plugs and NGK wires, new air filter,

My brother also hooked up a scanner, and there were NO codes, and the fuel pressure was good, Because initially he said to change the fuel filter (which I did) ,then we would check the fuel pump pressure, fuel pump pressure is fine.
And the most puzzling thing,is ,when warm it not just runs smooth but runs strong, So I was thinking, maybe the ignition switch ,based on other posts I read..
Some kid said if it starts, when you go past normal cranking spot, or as the key returns , worn contacts, could be to blame, and I thought, I have my answer, But if that is tru, how come when it is warm it fires up immediately?

Cars draw greater amperage when they are cold and it may be too much for the ignition switch at that point. Your brother can easily take the switch apart and check it out. Read section H below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ics-46563.html

All I can say is run the tests in items 3 and 4 of the Action Plan. What is wrong should become apparent.

Thanks so much, I'll work on those items, you have mentioned and get back to you
It may be next weekend though, it is FREEZING dang cold out here in NJ
THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR HELP, you are the best
God bless

Oh sorry to be a pain the butt, I saw igniton assemblies on that popular auction site for like 50-60 bucks, should I get one, I guess run all the test first, is it my tumbler ( the part that turns) or more like a switch plate with contacts,etc that would be to blame.

Also, if I lived in NJ, I would only use synthetic engine oil. Cars start MUCH EASIER with it in winter--easier on battery and starter. Oil pressure builds 7 times faster than conventional oil.

Just the ignition switch, not the lock.

Here's what they look like and cost at RockAuto.com:

Manufacturer Info

I would get the Standard Motor Products brand for $40.79. Many Standard Motor Products are the same as Honda OEM for 1/3 the price. They are often made by TEC (Tokyo Electric Co.), the same company that makes them for Honda.

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # US510 {IGNITION SWITCH}

I HAVE CASTROL SYNTEC IN THERE NOW,like I said having a brother that's a mechanic is helpful,and he gives great advice too, just not up to date on the civics and newer cars, so you're help is greatly appreciated.
I will look into testing, then getting that switch

Castrol is a good choice, made right there in NJ.

Well, it really crapped out on me today, I was hoping to nurse it along until the weekend, then I would have the time to work on it, do the test(s) , etc.
But no such luck..
Good old Murphy's Law,it was colder than a witch's (insert body part here)
And my car was cranking and cranking, until my battery died, I did a spark ,test, and guess what I was getting no spark,
I already have the ignition switch on order, Now I think I need to order the ignitor /igniter (whatever spelling you like)
If those don't work, my last move is a Map sensor) then I guess. If that doesn't work, Ill sell my car on eBay, perfect Civic MANY MANY NEW PARTS, runs so good when warm,
Harder than chinese algebra to start.

, when cold

That's a shame. It's no fun either working on cars in cold weather, either. If you get to the end of your rope, tie a knot and hold on. You will solve the problem soon--don't bail, yet.

Thnks for the words of advice , I'm so hoping, this ignitor, and ignition switch, end it..
I talked you up at work today,
I have been dealing with idiot after idiot out here,
And everyone, was recommending the things I already did.I thank you 100% for knowing the other things to check. You have been extremely helpful!

Guess what TEXAS GREASE MONKEY
I fixed it, started it up,and drove it today..
I'm happier than a pig in slop

Of course my parts arrived on THE COLDEST DAY of the year for us, (coldest in 2 years)
About 9 degrees out..
But my brother showed up, helped me smack in a new distributor assembly
He got me a decent deal on it..
And NO more messing around,
It would have been a 5 minute job,,
But a stupid plastic connector, was a pain in the BUTT,
The cold,was making the plastic real spongy and brittle too..
ANYWAY
Cracked one tab on it, But got it all together,
Turn the key, wham, Started right up, and ran beautiful
My brother put the timing light on it, dialed it in,
Im good to go

Still don't know if it was the ignitor, the module inside the distributor, or whatever,, But it doesn't matter to me,
My brother siad, he'll test it all later, and put together a spare for me, out of my parts,and some from his shop

BUT the mystery is over,and it runs.
Im so glad..

THANKS AGAIN, for all of your help,DEVOTION, and encouragement
MAY the LORD bless you and your family.
P.s. if you need any favors let me know.
I can come up with something for you .

Nice going. I can't imagine having to work on your car, when it's 9 degrees outside. People who don't work on their own cars miss the sense of accomplishment and victory that comes from tackling these problems. Thank you for your kind words.

Hey TXGreasemonkey, I have another issue (minor one this time, ) maybe you can help with
I put on some aftermarket rims, and the guy at the shop said I may feel some wobble from them, because they didn't have spacers (or whatever term people use for the piece that sits in the inner part of the rim, where it mounts to the hub area)
I put them on regular, there was a wobble feel,
I then bouth spacers, that kind of change the backspacing ( I think that is the proper term)so now they sit flatter and further out from the hub.
I think it helped the back, but the front are still acting funny ( my steering wheel shakes at medium speeds back and forth ,in short quick movements ) similar to being out of alignment
BUT , I took it in for a computerized alignment in the past ,when I had the steel wheeels on, and old tires and it ran like it was on rails , straight as an arrow no wobble.
The new rims are used but not beat up, the tires are brand new and each wheel was high speed balanced..
Do you think I need more of a spacer in there. A 2 and one, or one thick one. Or possibly less of a spacer?
Not sure if you'd know this.. Any help as always is appreciated.
Tom in NJ

Tom, I'm not a fan of using wider rims and tires. They tend to cause premature wheel bearing failure, plus steering and alignment problems. I'm really not a good person to ask concerning these type of problems. Sorry.