Hi: I'm having a problem with my honda ,when I start it on the morning ,when is cold the car crank and start but stop after a second and then I started it again and I have to depress the gas to keep it running and the rpm goes up and down from 700 to 2000 rpm and I have to keep holding the gas pedal until reaches a little of heat and then after a couple of minutes keeps running by itself but with fluctuation on the iddle .then after a 3-5 minutes of warming up, the engine works just fine and it runs great . I already check and I can hear the fuel pump when I open the ig sw. I changed the iddle control valve and the eacv and the thermostat and did some test from the haynes manual and the honda dealer cd rom and the map is OK. Egr ,OK . I don't know what else to check any help will be apreciated.one thing I notice is that when I turn the heather or ac on the fans didn't come on . Is that wrong?

You need to replace the ignition control module (igniter). This should solve your starting problem. Because of the age of the car, you really should replace the coil, rotor, and distributor cap at the same time.

I already replaced the cap and rotor a month ago , I tried to swap parts from several that I bought from the honda heaven ( used parts) and it's the same . I mean those parts are expensive just to buy them and try 'em and find that is not the problem .I will try to replace the coil. Is that what you're talking about right? Thanks for the fast response

I believe your problem is caused by a bad igniter. Coat back of igniter with silicone grease before installing.

Here's what it looks like:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=194&ptset=A

I'm sorry I can't see nothing with the link that you just send me. Where is the igniter located? Thank you

Inside the distributor.

OK . Is there a way to test it before buy it? And why is only doing this when is cold? Thank you

Also I changed the distributor a year ago and put new rotor and cap a month or two ago

If you changed the distributor a year ago, and it came with a new igniter and coil, then forget my suggestion. As to why your car acts up only when it's cold, I can't tell you. Some components act up when hot, others when cold. My experience is that one sign an igniter is bad is fluctuating rpm. This makes sense since the BLU tachometer wire connects directly to one of the igniter terminals in the distributor. I believe the odds are quite high that if you replace your igniter the fluctuating rpm problem will be solved. Your decision, though.

Well the rpm fluctuates only when cold then after the car is warmed up works fine. Do you think I still need to change the ignition module? Thank you .sorry for all the questions.

That's my assessment from afar. If you want, remove the igniter and take it to Autozone, O'Reilly Auto Parts, or some other store that tests igniters for free. Many outfits will test coils for free also.

You said not only does the rpm fluctuate when cold, but it stalls. This is characteristic of marginal electrical systems, where something fundamentally is wrong. Igniters are computer-controlled as to when to open and close the coil's low voltage circuit. When igniters start to fail, they become erratic.

You could also check out the Fast Idle Thermo Valve, which is controlled by a thermowax plunger. This is factory adjusted, however, and should not be disassembled (only replaced). Since you already replaced the Idle Air Control Valve, there are not a whole lot of alternatives.

Yes I already changed the fast iddle control valve 3 times I have 4 of these parts from the yunk yard and I don't think that all of those are damaged or worn out because the car does the same ,I mean it should notice a little difference between changes don't you think so? But I'm not an expert ,so I apreciated any help. Thank you. By the way the first one that I put does make a diference I bought it from eBay and the seller said that was removed from a good working car . The car had the transmission damaged. So all the others work as the one I bought from eBay.

Ive been having problems with my honda accord 92. After I adjustef the valves and put a little of oil in the pistons by the spark plugs hole it started stalling and its very hard to start when cold but start but if I shut it off after it reaches normal temperatures it does not start again even it doesn't crank can some one help me with any experience on this

Socalstarter, I would install a new Ignition Control Module (ICM), which is located inside the distributor. Apply silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM.

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Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

Socalstarter, I would install a new Ignition Control Module (ICM), which is located inside the distributor. Apply silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM.

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thank txgreasemonkey I checked all the electrical sistem using my multimeter and found out the ignition coil to be bad so I changed it last Friday and now my car starts at the first try. I have another isues with this 92 accord lx it vibrates bad when in idle specially.when reaches normal temperature. The other think is my timing belt broke so I intalled a new one now after I intalled it the car make a weird noice when running ( the same noice it make when low on power steering) do you know what can be the reason

Socalstarter, failing ICMs frequently cause unusal problems with engine performance, especially when they reach normal operating temperature. I would replace it and check the timing with a timing light. Regarding the timing belt noise, did you replace the tensioner pulley when you installed the new timing belt? Did you properly set the tension on the new belt? Finally, was there any damage to the engine, when the timing belt broke?

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Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

Socalstarter, failing ICMs frequently cause unusal problems with engine performance, especially when they reach normal operating temperature. I would replace it and check the timing with a timing light. Regarding the timing belt noise, did you replace the tensioner pulley when you installed the new timing belt? Did you properly set the tension on the new belt? Finally, was there any damage to the engine, when the timing belt broke?

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I don't think I have any damage because I checked the compression and all my four cilinders got 175+_ . I will replace the icm and adjust the timing if necessary. I did change the tensioner but I didn't know I should have the timing belt adjusted to some specified tension. What's the tension it has to be? Or where can I find it? Thanks for your help so far txgreasemonkey

Socalstarter, on most 4-cylinder Honda engines, you line-up the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley and the oil pump, along with the proper timing marks on the camshaft and the engine block. Then, with the engine at TDC on the compression stroke, you rotate the crankshaft 3 teeth counterclockwise (CCW) past the camshaft timing mark. This will set the proper tension on the tensioner, which is free to move at this point; then, torque the 14mm tensioner bolt to 33 lb.-ft.

There's a tension side (camshaft pulley to timing belt drive pulley) and a slack side (water pump to camshaft pulley) to the timing belt. The tension side should be "banjo" tight.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

Socalstarter, on most 4-cylinder Honda engines, you line-up the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley and the oil pump, along with the proper timing marks on the camshaft and the engine block. Then, with the engine at TDC on the compression stroke, you rotate the crankshaft 3 teeth counterclockwise (CCW) past the camshaft timing mark. This will set the proper tension on the tensioner, which is free to move at this point; then, torque the 14mm tensioner bolt to 33 lb.-ft.

There's a tension side (camshaft pulley to timing belt drive pulley) and a slack side (water pump to camshaft pulley) to the timing belt. The tension side should be "banjo" tight.

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thank you so much for this info I am going to readjust it this weekend. You know I got this car from my brother and he had it down for almost 3 years I just made a tune up when I got it and it was running perfect for more than a year but now to many parts are failing down but its my fault because I was just running it without too much care. Just another question is it very complicated to change the clutch? Because its very expensive. I have some experience fixing my cars but I have never changed a clutch