First a little background: We have had this washing machine since 2004. It is a high capacity Maytag Atlantis. We lived in San Antonio in a newish house and had no problems with overflow out of the wall. We recently (last 6months) moved into on base housing on a small base, and every load, every time, no matter the size/spin speed, the stand drain overflows.

Maintenance has been out to the house and snaked it, water weenied it, and told me the whole system is vented.

I finally asked what size outlet it connects to, and the standpipe jumpes from the standard drain hose to a 1.5 inch pipe, which can not handle the volume that pumps from my washing machine.

I need to modify my drain hose somehow so less volume comes out at once into the standpipe. I say the drain hose because I can in no way modify this house because it belongs to the government.

Any ideas for simple modifications to the standpipe may be allowed if I present them to maintenance, so anything that has to do with modifying the standpipe has to be... basically pretend Im in kindergarten =) Links and all that, so I can make a presentation to maintenance. I need something, because stopping the washer for each spin cycle 6 or 7 times is time consuming and probably can't be good for the pump motor.

Thanks in advance for your time =D

HI Jenntree...

It is not true that an 1.5" pipe cannot handle the discharge from your washer.

Heck, in Massachusetts almost all residential washing machine drains are piped in 1.5" and they never have issues UNLESS the drain line is choked down and then either we snake the drain OR if the small snake won't fix the issue we cut the pipe out and repipe with new 1.5" pipe. Here, sometimes the drains get choked down with soap/sediments and the stuff hardens like clay... snakes can only punch a hole the size of the snake, right? In this case, cutting the PTRAP out and using a screwdriver and hammer to chisel out the inner pipe to full size is best solution.

Chocking the discharge pipe as you suggest is bad for the pump and will reduce the lifespan of the washing machine pump.

Have maintenance do this right... cut out the pipe back to the larger pipe in the house (if possible) and install new piping... your washing machine will last much longer this way!

Glad to discuss if you want. I'll be back on tonight...

Mark

Mark, thank you so much for the response!

Heh, the maintenance guys are going to hate me =)

A few questions, since really all I know about this issue is what I have googled.

How much space should there be before the standpipe goes to 1.5 inches?

Could this actually be a problem with my washing machine after the move? The movers were not very careful with the machine and I had to spend some money to repair a tub displacement caused by improper stowage. Might it have allowed air to somehow be pulled up into the drain pump causing backflow? I don't know if that is possible, which is why I ask =)

I think that's everything, and I'd prefer not to pinch the drain hose if I don't have to and actually get the problem fixed correctly. That's why I'm here, but darn, anything to stop the overflow while maintenance puts in to fix our plumbing. 6 to 8 weeks of government red tape isn't pleasant haha =D

Hello Jenn Tree, For many years now the pumps on washers are putting out more than they used to do. I've done a lot of work for HUD Housing and I know how hard it can be to get their maintenance team on your side.
Here in California when faced with the situation we just simply change the trap and arm out new to the stack. It doesn't take all that long and is only about a 4 hour job at most. However the patching will take some time. I recommend that you get friendly with the right people you need to get friendly with over there and explain your situation to them. That you just got a new washer and it will ruin the pump if you choke it down. Try approaching that way and maybe you can get something accomplished. Good Luck with it.

As they say it will all come out in the wash. Wish I could be more help.

Robert

Hi Jenn...

Like Pipester said, the TRAPARM (pipe between the trap and where it connects to a vertical drain pipe) is usually pretty short and it is that trap arm that usually needs to be replaced, or at a minimum, cut, snaked/chiseled and then reattached using shielded clamps.

In my area, the standpipe should be between 18-30 inches and then install the trap and then the trap arm runs to a tee fitting that is usually the vent and then the drain will connect to the bigger drain lines. It should be a relatively similar setup for you.

See what the guys think about repiping or at least cutting into the trap arm nearest the largest pipe and seeing what they find as again, choking the discharge pipe is really only a last resort!

Check out the diagram below... may expplain better?

Mark

Mark

Hi again Jenn Tree, when I saw you lived in a Government home I assumed it was a HUD Home. I didn't consider it may be military. Anyway a thought came to me something you might try. Let your fingers do the walking for the most part, but call a few Plumbing Retailers that have some experience with this type of thing and ask them if they might per chance have an old cast iron washingmachine trap that they have taken out of a job laying around. Tell them your situation. What you'll find if you can find one is that dimes to dollars what started as 1 1/2 inch or even a 2 inch Ptrap is probably rusted shut down to about an inch.

This is what I've found with all the traps I've pulled out that are in the 30 year or 40 year old bracket that have the problem your describing. Good Luck and at least you can get some more evidence for your case.

Robert

You probably have it fixed by now.. but if not:

Try extending the pipe up another 12-15" with the same size pipe and a clamping rubber connector (Fernco or similar) This may give enough extra time for the drain to empty.. Judge this based on the amount of water spilling over..