The first time my car got towed was because of an anti freeze leak... less than a week later was driving to work and it slowed down and stalled on the highway all the dash lights came on and everything else went off it was on a Sunday so it got towed and the garage looked at it on Monday it started up fine for them and they couldn't find anything wrong with it... the following Saturday the same thing happened lost power while driving stalled out and wouldndn't start... tried again about 10 minutes later and it half started and creeped along the highway for about a km and then BANG!! My muffler and half my exhaust blew up... towed it again garage looked at it on Monday said they couldn't find anything again charged me for a new muffler and exhaust also changed my fuel filter and fuel sensor... picked it up on Thursday then same thing again broke down on the Saturday on the way to work... towed again.. looked at again on Monday again it started right up for them and they said they couldn't find anything wrong changed the crank sensor... picked it up on Friday stalled out again on the way home from work same problem... towed to a different garage they couldn't find anything either started up for them too... they changed the ingnition compressor.. they also said the wiring was fine as was the vacuum and the map sensor... I am at a loss of what to do any info would be appreciated

You don't mention any but I wonder if any of the shops scanned for codes?
They may also need to keep your car a little longer so they can test and "see" what's happening when it stalls.

Well I don't know what you mean by codes but they've hooked it up to their computer and it doesn't tell them anything plus they've driven it all over when they get it and nothing bad happens I'd like to get them to drive it back and forth daily for a week and I know by the fourth or fifth day it'll break down but I don't know if they'd be willing to do that... plus I can't afford these last repairs so it's sitting in their lot until I can figure out what to do... been searching online for hours for a solution all that seems to fit is a blockage in the fuel pump or a wiring problem.

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Originally Posted by marrianne

well I don't know what you mean by codes but they've hooked it up to their computer and it doesn't tell them anything plus they've driven it all over when they get it and nothing bad happens I'd like to get them to drive it back and forth daily for a week and I know by the fourth or fifth day it'll break down but I don't know if they'd be willing to do that...plus I can't afford these last repairs so it's sitting in their lot until I can figure out what to do...been searching online for hours for a solution all that seems to fit is a blockage in the fuel pump or a wiring problem.

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Let me get this straight... This whole time, you've had your car towed to a shop and they checked your car and told you,"this is what you need." And they gave you a price and you told them to go ahead? Am I right here or not? You tell me...
Cuz if they checked the car and simply "guessed" what the fault was, since they claim they never had a problem, that bit of information should have been made clear to you at that time.

I'd rather hope it's due to mis-communication. Somewhere between extremes.

Nope you're right I've taken it to two different garages they've both told me they can't find anything wrong because it "started up" just fine for them.. so they've guessed 5 times between them for the problem I've paid over 500 so far not including the tows and the problem to my knowledge still exists I'm afriad of my car and the last time I broke down I had my 4 way flashers on as usual and I got hit from behind they took off before I got the licsense plate sigh... I called the first garage and they said they tow it to their garage but they refused to look at it they said it shouldn't be on the road and the second said they wouldn't guarantee their work because they were just guessing at the problem they said they needed to see it right away after it stalled out but because it breaks down either on my way to work or on my way home or the weekend they never look at it till the next day and when they do it runs fine.

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was driving to work and it slowed down and stalled on the highway all the dash lights came on and everything else went off

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If warning lights (e.g., battery, oil, ABS, SRS, or others) start appearing, in concert with one another on the dash, immediately suspect the alternator:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1973613

Has anyone checked the alternator?

If what you say is all true, you doesn't seem that you've been treated fairly and even if you can't stop what's happened you can prevent it for the next person.
Gather all documentation you have such as receipts, notes from phone conversations, etc, and consider filing a small claims dispute, but I'd definitely contact the BBB.
However, without every bit of fact and documentation, you may not stand a chance.

No I don't think it's the alternator it would have have stopped and not started again... it runs for a few days then stalls over again the next day it's fine I'm pretty sure it's the fuel pump but I have no money to test that theory... just bumming rides and taking the bus for now

I know people have mentioned that to me but it seems it would be more trouble than its worth it costs money that I don't have right now right now my main concern is where can I take it that will be able to find and fix the problem for good and how much will it put me in the hole so to speak haha...

Testing fuel pressure is one the first tests that should be done by a shop or tech when faced with intermittent stalling!
Did neither shop bother to do this test yet recommend other repairs, i.e: crank sensor and fuel sensor (what fuel sensor?)?

I've seen many alternators that work fine some of the time. Brushes can wear to the point where they don't make consistent contact with the slip rings. This usually doesn't happen at idle speed; instead, at higher speeds when you're driving down the road. When this happens, the dashboard lights up like a Christmas tree and the car dies. Super simple to test the alternator.

Something pretty fundamental has to be wrong with the electrical system, such as a failing alternator or ICM, to cause all of the dash lights to come on and the car to die.

Always begin automotive electrical troubleshooting by removing and fully charging the battery. When it's placed on the charger, the ammeter can tell you a lot about the condition of the charging system. Most auto parts stores will do this for free.

Next, test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

Be very thorough, since it will save a lot of time and money.

This type of methodical approach allows one to start establishing a "baseline" of what you know is good.

I'm still curious what tests were done and in what order.
The three basics: starting/charging system, primary and secondary ignition systems and, finally, fuel system integrity, including fuel pressure and a clue about sufficient fuel level and delivery volume.
And did they check for DTCs?
All that can be verified fairly quickly by an experienced drivability technician.

Yes I paid for both of those repairs as well as the fuel filter the problem still happened

I recommend you take it to your local Chevy dealer--they should know your car better than anyone. Cavaliers are reliable cars.

Our local chevy dealer went out of business

I believe the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is the source of all of your car's problems. It explains the intermittent nature of your car dying and the resulting exhaust system explosion. It's also simple to fix. Shop around online to get the best price.

I always recommend replacing ICMs at 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. These are extremely problematic components. I'm sorry I didn't think of this earlier.

Conceptually, the ICM is a large output transistor (switch) controlling current through the primary coil. ICMs replace points and condenser in older vehicles. In the primary coil, current builds to 5 to 12 amps, generating lots of heat (due to inductance). Then, the ECM controls when the ICM "switches off" current to the primary coil, causing amperage to go to zero. When this happens, 12 to 14 volts in the primary coil is "stepped-up" to 30,000 volts in the secondary coil. This process creates a "type" of alternating current required for the coil (step-up transformer) to work. In a properly working ICM, timing is precisely when needed to fire each spark plug. In your Cavalier, I believe fuel built up and was ignited at the wrong time, because the ICM was not firing when it was supposed to. It resulted in blowing out the exhaust.

IMPORTANT NOTE: I am not a fan of bench testing ICMs and coils. DIY bench testing does not simulate the heat that often causes these components to exhibit intermittent failure. It's safer to replace these critical ignition system components every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

Your situation, Marriane, is classic intermittent ICM failure, where it sometimes fails under load (when it heats up). After your engine cooled down a little, it started 10 minutes later. I'm sure this is your problem.

An Airtex/Wells ICM (6H1054) costs $161.79 at RockAuto.com. Any mechanic should be able to install it in 10 minutes.

Here's a Standard Motor Products ICM for $84.99, including shipping, on eBay:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/3603080...=263602_309572

This is really an easy do-it-yourself project--just be sure to disconnect the negative battery cable first. The ICM is located under the coil packs. Therefore, remove the coil packs, remove the old ICM, install the new ICM, replace the coil packs, and reconnect the negative battery cable.

Well the garage that I took it to last said they replaced the ingnition condenser is that what you mean?. well with a used one for a hundred bucks they said a new one was 500

I don't know what an "ingnition condenser" is. What I showed you was a brand new Ignition Control Module for $84.99. I would not recommend you buy a used Ignition Control Module, since these are very sophisticated, problematic components--it may very well not work.

Tell me what the brand and part number was of the "ingnition condenser."

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Originally Posted by marrianne

well the garage that I took it to last said they replaced the ingnition condenser is that what you mean?...well with a used one for a hundred bucks they said a new one was 500

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Did you get their diagnosis/estimate in writing?
If so, PM me and I'll have you fax that to me for evaluation.
It's what I do. :cool: