I have a leaky toilet tank filler. It uses a float to shut it off and is only about five years old. The water is running over the standpipe after a couple of days of non-use on one of them (I have three). So I bought three new pilot valve replacement shutoffs for my three toilets. After installation they all do the same thing but within an hour or two. I contacted the seller and he said that my system pressure was too high should be around 45 psi max. My experience is that many water systems are in the 60-70 psi range. (We go to campgrounds where I have experienced this.) My question is: Is the pressure at our place at 75 psi too high or is this unit faulty? Is there some kind of standard? We are on a municipal water system in Texas (has a water tower and all)

Hi,normal pressure standards vary a bit but as reference 40psi min to about 60-65psi in a single
Family residence is the norm.pressure reducing valves, or pressure regulators are commonly used
In residential applications to fix pressure problems . A wide variety with or without guages and
0-125psi adjustments are available from 50-150 dollars through plumbing supplyers. As far as your toilet goes ,depending on the flush valve,75 may be a bit high but most manufacturers leave some headroom
Into the 75 psi range. I've personnaly had this happen and found high fluctuations in press. Would
Affect my toilets occasionaly. My solution at the time was to close down the incomming water till it still filled at a normal rate but restricted any major surges. My system would bounce between 45psi and 95-100
Psi for short periods. Anyway keep me posted.

Hi guys...

The units sound like they were not manufactured to a reasonable specification standard, for sure, as most homes have water pressure between 45-80 PSI MAX as Rojo1 pointed out.

In terms of plumbing code, it says that any home with a water system that exceeds 80PSI must have a pressure regulating valve installed to lower it to a more normal 45-65 PSI.

You may want to consider this option as it will help to reduce wear/tear on the plumbing parts in your home.

I would call the manufacturer and quote him the code. You may be on the high end of things but you don't exceed the pressure requirements and they should be making a valve that works well within the range specified in all plumbing code books that I know of.

I would either install the regulator or I would return the valves and replace them with new fluidmaster fill valves as these seem to work well within the specified range.

Good luck!

Mark

I have since been credited with the costs of the first three and have received and installed three float-type valves to replace them (MJSI HC660). Now, the one that was overflowing originally is leaking badly. If I shut the new valve off, it dumps the water in a couple of hours. I replaced the flapper with one I had around for 20 years, but seemed to be OK, but it still leaks.

So I took the tank off and replaced the seals on the tank. Still leaks. So I took a piece of RV roof sealer tape and taped over the flapper valve hole. The leak stopped. So from this I know it is leaking between the flapper and the flapper valve hole. I tried some silicone grease on the flapper - no effect. I tried holding the flapper physically in place - no help. I checked the smoothness and flatness of the flap's valve hole - I can see nothing unusual or out of flat, no nicks, etc. Yet when the RV tape was on it, the leak stopped. When removed the tape did not have any unusual impression. So - I think I am going to buy a flapper for it and try that, but I doubt it will fix it. But what else could it be - should I remove the entire standpipe and flapper with a new one?

Update: I swapped the "new" flapper with one of the other toilets and now both seem to be working; at least not as pronounced a leak on the leaking one. I'll give this a couple of days. I can see some etching on the original flapper I had removed.

It's called a FLUSH VALVE ASSEMBLY and yeah, I'd replace that as well, as most universal flappers just don't seem to fit the older flush valves well.

Purchase an adjustable sink wrench while at the store so you can tighten the spud nut to the flush valve without needing to break out an 18" wrench, OK... :) A really large pair of pliers will also work.

Mark