I am faced with the same hot water heater question as others. I am building a small utility building on property on Texas Gulf Coast. Within this building I want to put a small shower stall with a hot water heater to supply this shower and occasionally use a washer. It will be for vacation/weekend use and most of the time there will be only 2 to three adults(short shower time). The price difference between a 20 gal and 30/38 gallon electric is minimal. I plan on putting it on a heavy duty platform so a electric dryer can sit under for space saving. I've been told we will want to leave it on even when we aren't there to keep the stale water smell and bacteria down. After reading posts I'm still uncertain which to use. Any suggestions would be appreciated

Hi BhwTexas...

2-3 short time showers and laundry when you guys are in any kind of hurry definitely requires the 30 gallon heater. Here, a 30 gallon heater will not be recovering nearly as fast as a 30 gallon gas-fired water heater so for your application I think a 30 gallon electric is the only way to go... ;)

Shutting down or leaving on is definitely a debate so I'll let you decide but I've never been a fan of heating water 24/7 when I didn't need, too!

Questions? Let us know...

Mark

If the price break is small go with the larger. A 20 gallon tank won't give much of a shower time. You may take a short shower but will future folks do the same every time? Also consider a small tankless or on demand unit. It is off 24/7/365 until you turn on a hot tap. Whoever gave you that advice about keeping a heater running has no data or actual info to back up that old wives tale. If you feeling the water is stale or bateria is growing then just flush out the 30 gallons of cold rather than heating 30 gallons 24/7/365

The 30 gallon would be my choice but even better if a tankless gas or electric water heater could be installed because of the seasonal use. Keep in mind that the electrical for a 20 gal and 30 gallon HWT is different and must have proper wiring and dedicated breakers installed by an electrician, not a plumber or handyman. The retail and installation cost of the tankless will be higher, but no need to heat when not in use. The 30 gallon tank will have to remain on and at a temperature of at least 120 degrees F. to reduce the risk of harmful bacteria proliferating within the tank. Bacteria growth in the tank is a concern and simple flushing out "the 30 gallons of cold" is not an effective method of cleaning the tank. If you do develop an odor it may be time to call a plumbing pro to check the anode and also perform the flush as there is a risk of severe scalding and damaging the tank while providing the service.

Thanks for everyone's quick response. I cannot go with gas because I don't have gas lines and don't want a propane tank. When the electrician installed the initial meter/breaker box I made sure he put the correct number of dedicated breakers etc so I could handle both an electric hot water heater and electric dyer and running at the same time as necessary. I will definitely have an electrician do the wireing when I finally decide. I've not considered a tankless because they are pretty expensive up front and I'm not sure I'll have the water pressure that, per my in town plumber, is necessary for a tankless to run properly. Again thanks for the input and help.

What is your water pressure, how many psi

I'm not sure. Haven't had it tested but will see about doing this. I have also further researched the tankless after everyone's suggestions and found that Rheem makes one in the $250.00 range which is the same price as the 20 and 30 gallon tank heater. So if water pressure is enough to use tankless that is probably the way I will go. ANyone have any input on these smaller tankless units? I cannot justify going over 300.00 for the unit. Again this will be directly on the coast (beachfront) so I will have to address corrosion issues. Thank you all so much for all input.

Be sure that the unit is sized properly. If you have a Rheem that provides 3-4 GPM (gallons per minute) then it should work for using one fixture at a time. Do not plan to run a dishwasher and use a sink at the same time or wash warm/hot laundry and take a shower. Too much cold water demand will overwhelm the appliances ability to heat the water adequately. The price range that you mentioned led me to believe it is a small tankless and also indicated that you are comparing to a 20 gallon electric tank. Getting 5-8 GPM may be better for your needs and I do understand that you're working within a budget, but also don't forget about differences in installation costs.

Could you share a model number for that unit, never saw one this cheap. I have pput in a few that ranged in the $850 ballpark

RETE13 is the model but this may be the Big Box store's number not Rheem's. It is a 13 kw 240 volt model. The description gives 3 GPM at a 35degree rise. I assume that means if the water temp needs to be raised 35 degrees it will provide 3 gal per minute. Obviously that means that if water temp is cooler, which it usually will be, it will provide cooler water. I'm not sure why the installtion cost is mentioned as being more than for a tank water heater. I assume both involve connecting cool water supply, hot water output, and electric hookup.

https://www.wamhomecenter.com/Produc...product=201424 even better, less than $235 an 4 gallons per minute

Installation costs, in general could balance the difference in prices for the appliances. Once a plumber looks at the possible work, he/she could determine that the drain down, removal, installation w/other materials and disposal of the tank is either easier or harder than the mounting, repiping, installation, materials, etc. of the tankless. Every situation is different when it comes to plumbing. If the labor is less for the tankless, perhaps you could stay within the same budget and afford a better unit. The same for the electric HWT.

HI Bhw...

In addition, you said, "I'm not sure why the installation cost is mentioned as being more than for a tank water heater."...

Here, the installation costs associated with the tankless systems has gotten a reputation as being more expensive more so because most people install them AFTER an old water heater was in place and it therefore costs more to rip out the old work and then install all new piping to the tankless systems compared to simply replacing the water heater, right?

In time, as more and more of these get installed in the newer homes that reputation will probably drop off a bit as these units won't need to be replaced nearly as often as a tank water heater and that will demostrate another savings in addition to the money already being saved by instantly heating the water... ;)

Mark