I live in the country and have a well pump. I switched from a gas water heater to an electric. Both are 40 gal Kenmore power savers. Our hot water now cycles, when the well pump is running it is cooler, when the pump stops the temp increases. The cycle is about 15 seconds hot, 15 seconds cool. I have checked the lines for obstructions they look good

HI Pablox...

Is this happening at all fixtures or just the shower? Let me know. For now, I'll assume it's a whole house issue...

When you installed the electric water heater did you put heat anywhere near the nipples sticking out of the water heater? If so, then you may have melted or damaged the DIP TUBE in the cold water inlet.

If you didn't use heat at the nipples then I still think you may have an issue with the DIP TUBE.. to find out you would need to remove the dip tube from the cold water inlet and inspect it for damage... could even be a manufacturer's defect.

I'm also wondering how many people in your home as a 40 gallon electric water heater will not supply nearly as much hot water as a 40 gallon gas-fired water heater so you have really reduced your hot water availability to the house. Here, available water is directly tied to the RECOVERY RATE of each heater and electric is much slower in recovery. Most people would install a 60 gallon electric to match a 40 gallon gas-fired. So, how many people in the home? Let me know the answer, OK?

Back to you...

Mark

You say "both". So you have two 40 gallon electric tanks that replaced two gas tanks? Did you change the piping arrangements on the hot and cold supplies of both tanks? Are the electrical wiring, voltage and breakers sized properly? Check to see if there are any valves that are closed or should be closed. Stating that it happens when the pump comes on leads me to believe that there is a loss of balance in the system and back pressure or siphonage may be occurring. Of course as massplumber2008 said, check your dip tubes,too.

Hi Pghplumber...

Good catch on the "both"... could be they meant that they swapped out the gas heaters and installed 2 electric heaters. If I had looked at it from that perspective I would definitely have asked about the piping arrangement/design... ;)

I took "both" to mean BOTH were 40 gallon heaters, but in rereading I can see where it could be that the 2 new ones are 40 gallon power savers... hmmm..

Hopefully, Pablox will pop back and let us know!

Thanks...

Mark

I agree massplumber, a word as simple as 'both' could mean what we think it means or what the customer thinks it means. Again, without details, another tough guess unless there is a reply.

Thanks for your replys so quickly,

I am using one hot water heater, I replaced a gas 40 gal with an electric 40 gal. The fluctuation problem is at all taps, but most noticeable in the shower. I did not use heat during the installation, and the problem is not related to recovery time as the flux occurs with a "full hot tank". (we have 3 people at home, but we shower at different times of the day.) I ran 10ga wiring and 30 amp breaker that the installation instructions require.

I tried to remove the dip tube but could not get to it without damaging the metal around the cold water input, the top cover seems to be sealed on. As I had the new tank disconnected I hooked up the old gas tank and ran it to make sure it wasn't a house problem. No problem with water using the gas system tank. I put the electric tank back on line, and the problem came back. This would indicate to me that the problem is in the tank. Because this is a brand new tank I don't want to screw up the warranty so I called Sears, they're coming out today. I really do appreciate your time and thanks again for helping. I'll let you know what they come up with.
Paul

I'm still betting on the DIP TUBE! It can usually be removed using a pair of needlenose pliers... ;)


I look forward to the solution!

Thank you!

Mark