OK I have read all the forums and have gone through all the procedures for a honda civic not getting spark. I replaced the main relay, new cap and rotor, took the ignition coil and ignitor to autozone and they said they tested good but the ignition coil was a little high but it should still be getting spark. I don't know what else to do. Anyone got any ideas. Thanks.

Have you performed the tests outlined in sections A and B in the link below?

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ics-46563.html

Yeah I have done everything that it says to do. I am getting power all the way to the ignition coil and all the terminals on the ignitor unit have power. I took both to autozone and they say they are good. On the coil the primary is 9 and the secondary is 13. The ignitor got tested 2 times and it was good. I tested the distributer cap and it was good. I replaced the main relay and the cel comes on and turns off in 2 sec and I can hear the relay click on and off 2 times. I don't hear the fuel pump turn on. I jumped terminals 5 and 7 but nothing that is probably a bad fuel pump. I check the computer for errors but it only blinks once when the key turns on and no codes follow. The rotor and the timing belt both turn. All the fuses seem to be all working. I am all out of ideas and have read almost all these forums but still can't figure out why I can't get to spark. I would really like to figure this one out. Thanks for all the help.

It's strange that you can't hear the fuel pump run. Check all under-dash fuses with a test light or multimeter. Pay particular attention to the 15 Amp ACG (ALT) (S) fuse, which controls power to main relay terminal 5. This may be fuse no. 12 or 24, depending upon whether you don't have SRS or you do. It may even be fuse no. 2, labeled Start Signal. Be very thorough. If the fuses check out okay, the main relay may not be providing power to the fuel pump, because of a problem with the ECM. Main relay terminal 8 is a computer-controlled grounding terminal. If the computer is not working properly, the second relay in the main relay will not ground and close shut. If this does not happen, then the fuel pump won't run. Therefore, perform the K-Test on your ECM. Let me know what voltage you record.

It's unclear to me whether the fuel pump ran, when you jumped terminals 5 and 7. Can you clarify that for me?

Is your rotor good? Did you slightly crimp the female connectors going to the igniter? Over time, they get loose due to heat. After this, you start getting into the obscure; e.g. checking distributor sensors. Normally, however, the problem is more obvious. My gut is that you really should install a new igniter and coil because they may be almost 19 years old. Igniters, particularly, are problematic.

Well what happened was that the car was not starting. I thought that the car was flooding cause there was gas pumping and I could smell it. This was before I checked the spark plugs. Anyway I Used vice grips to clamp off the fuel line thinking that it was floading and I try to start the car and it still wouldn't start. But when I unclamed it now I was not getting no gas. Then I realized that I was not getting spark. But I think that I damaged something when I clamped the fuel line. But my biggest problem is why I am I not getting spark. I hear the second relay after a few seconds. I jumped terminals 5 and 7 but don't hear the fuel pump turn on. I am pretty sure the main relay is working properly.because like I said I hear it click both times one after the other. I think that I damaged the fuel pump when I clamped off the fuel line because it was working in the beginning. I can't figure out why I am not getting spark. Its driving me crazy. Thanks

You definitely should hear the fuel pump run, when you jump terminals 5 and 7. Here's what you need to do. Separate the main relay from the connector. Turn the ignition switch to ON and measure the voltage between connector terminal 5 and ground. It should be somewhere around 12.5 volts. If there is no voltage, you have a bad fuse or an open in the wire between the main relay and the appropriate fuse.

I think you may find that you have a blown fuse. If you locate it, you may also solve the fact that the car won't spark. You should be able to put this to bed tonight. You have to use a multimeter or test light and test every under-dash fuse. Don't start pulling them out and looking at them.

I will test all the fuses again and check the voltage on the terminal 5 and will let u know what I come up with. I hope this works but we will see. Thanks for all the help.

Reading section X on using a meter or test light to test fuses might help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...s-46563-3.html

OK here is where I am. I have done everything that you have said and all that I have read on the forums. Everything is checking OK. All the fuses under the dash and under the hood are all good. The main relay is working properly. I hear it clicking and I hear the fuel pump running. There are no code coming on the computer. I took the ignition coil and ignitor to autozone again and had them tested again and they check out OK. I test to see if I am getting power to the distributer I am. The distributer and rotor are new. I check the wires and they are good. Here is the problem I am not getting fuel up to the throttle body or I am not getting no spark. Although to day it sounded like it wanted to start but then went back to normal just engine turning. I was told today that if fuel is not coming to the throtle body then the computer wouldn't let it spark either. In the beginging it was pumping the gas but I clamed the fuel line and when I unclamped it is when it stopped pumping gas. Am I suppeosed to prime it or anything do to me starving it from gas. It don't make sense that the fuel pump is running but not pushing the gas to the front of the car. Or why I am not getting no spark whick might be because I am not getting fuel. I don't know but I have ran every test possible and everything seems to be passing. Maybe there is something else I am missing. Thanks for all the help.

Answer these 5 questions for me:

1. When you turn the ignition switch to ON (not START), does the Check Engine Light (CEL) come on and then go off after 2 seconds?

2. When the CEL goes out, do you hear and/or feel the Main Relay "click"?

3. During the 2 second interval that the CEL is on, do you hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run?

4. What voltage did you record, when you ran the K-Test?

5. What were your results from my comments last night; i.e.

You definitely should hear the fuel pump run, when you jump terminals 5 and 7. Here's what you need to do. Separate the main relay from the connector. Turn the ignition switch to ON and measure the voltage between connector terminal 5 and ground. It should be somewhere around 12.5 volts. If there is no voltage, you have a bad fuse or an open in the wire between the main relay and the appropriate fuse.

If everything above checks out, see if your MAP Sensor is bad. Outside of that, and possibly checking CKP, CYP, and TDC sensors in the distributor, I don't know what else to suggest.

1. When you turn the ignition switch to ON (not START), does the Check Engine Light (CEL) come on and then go off after 2 seconds? Yeah

2. When the CEL goes out, do you hear and/or feel the Main Relay "click"? Yeah

3. During the 2 second interval that the CEL is on, do you hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run? Yeah I hear it sounds like a wining noise

4. What voltage did you record, when you ran the K-Test? That is one thing I did forget about thanks. I am a little confused on how to do this test. Can you maybe explain it a little bit more. I understand that the computer is on the passanger side of the car and you can see the red led light that flashes. Is that hole box the ecm or is that a part inside that box? If u can help me out to understand this a little more I will go test it first thing in the morning.

5. What were your results from my comments last night; i.e. I pulled off the main relay and checked the voltage on teminal #5 and got around 12.5. I jumped terminals 5 and 7 and I can here the fuel pump winding. Even when I hear the fuel pump winning when the main relay is on and you turn the key to on position. But no gas comes out up front of the car.

Someone told me that when a car runs out of gas that you can't just go put gas back in it and start it. They say you need to take it to a dealer so they can get the air or something out so it will pump the gas again. So since I clamped the fuel line is it possible that it was like the car ran out of gas and I got to do something to get the gas to pump again? That is even if this is true. I don't know I am willing to try anything now:confused: . I really apprciate all your help and thank you again.

1. When you turn the ignition switch to ON (not START), does the Check Engine Light (CEL) come on and then go off after 2 seconds? Yeah

2. When the CEL goes out, do you hear and/or feel the Main Relay "click"? Yeah

3. During the 2 second interval that the CEL is on, do you hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run? Yeah I hear it sounds like a wining noise

4. What voltage did you record, when you ran the K-Test? That is one thing I did forget about thanks. I am a little confused on how to do this test. Can you maybe explain it a little bit more. I understand that the computer is on the passanger side of the car and you can see the red led light that flashes. Is that hole box the ecm or is that a part inside that box? If u can help me out to understand this a little more I will go test it first thing in the morning.

5. What were your results from my comments last night; i.e. I pulled off the main relay and checked the voltage on teminal #5 and got around 12.5. I jumped terminals 5 and 7 and I can here the fuel pump winding. Even when I hear the fuel pump winning when the main relay is on and you turn the key to on position. But no gas comes out up front of the car.

Someone told me that when a car runs out of gas that it needs to go to the dealership so they can do something to it so the gas would pump again. Something like you can't just put gas and start the car again. If this is true is it possible when I clamped the fuel line it was like the car ran out of gas and maybe that is why it isn't pumping the gas up to the front of the car? Is their a way to prime it or anything. I don't know but am willing to try anything :confused: . I really appreciate all your help and thank you again.

You run the K-Test by checking the voltage at the MAP sensor connector. See below:

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multi-meter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

I suspect your fuel pump is running but not pumping. It likely is bad. You can test for pressure by hooking a gauge at the fuel filter. Read my "Sticky" concerning how to do this. Read Section R in the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post219451


The fuel pump should be self-priming.