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-   -   Dimmer switch only thing working on circuit (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=539388)

  • Dec 31, 2010, 03:31 PM
    jdsti06
    Dimmer switch only thing working on circuit
    I replaced a regular light switch with a dimmer style switch when I first moved in. After installing and reseting the breaker the outlet on the same wall stopped working. Now 7 months later the light and gfci in the bathroom on the same circuit stopped working. Any suggestions? Thanks
  • Dec 31, 2010, 03:59 PM
    ma0641
    Look in the dimmer box for a loose wire, either neutral or hot. Sometimes bundled under a wire nut, they are never tightened enough, particularly with stranded wire. Make sure the GFCI isn't tripped!
  • Jan 1, 2011, 12:27 PM
    jdsti06
    I looked in the box and checked all the wire caps. The gfci has no power to it so it won't trip or reset. Any other suggestions? Thank you
  • Jan 1, 2011, 12:51 PM
    ma0641
    Somewhare you have a disconnected/loose/broken wire or a bad breaker if you are not getting power. Bheck the black lead to the GFCI and try to see whaer it comes from.
  • Jan 1, 2011, 01:06 PM
    jdsti06
    I tried replacing the breaker as well, and that had no effect either. Ive taken apart the two switches and 2 outlets on the circuit and can't find a break. I have three wires heading into the dimmer box, could it be linked to another switch or outlet that I don't know?
  • Jan 1, 2011, 01:19 PM
    ma0641
    What are the three wires? Colors?
  • Jan 1, 2011, 01:28 PM
    jdsti06
    I have 3 sets excuse me. The whites are all bundled in the back, and the grounds are all bundled. Then there are 3 black wires. When I connected the dimmer, I didn't remember to mark the common. So I guessed and the dimmer worked first try. Then once everything stopped working I went back in and tried switching it, but then the dimmer stopped working as well, so I put it back the way I had it.
  • Jan 1, 2011, 03:09 PM
    ma0641
    Do you have a voltage tester-VOM? If so, pull out the black, take off the wire nut and test each black against a ground. Whatever one shows 120VAC is hot. You can also use a neon tester, available at HD for $5. Then you will need to test continuity between the non not wires using an ohm meter or a VOM set for ohms. For the dimmer to work, you will need 2 blacks or a black and a white if it is a switch loop. You will need to do a little snooping, it's hard to determine without seeing it.
  • Jan 1, 2011, 03:17 PM
    jdsti06
    The dimmer it self has worked since day one. If I had it backwards it wouldn't work right? I just don't get how one outlet stopped working immiditly after and the rest of the circuit 7 months later? It doesn't make sense. Unless the dimmer is somehow backwards and is effecting the rest of the circuit slowly?
  • Jan 1, 2011, 03:31 PM
    ma0641
    The dimmer wouldn't be in series with any outlet. I still believe you have an open circuit somewhere. Outlets rerely go bad, they wear out. By chance, did the original switch control an outlet or don't you know.
  • Jan 1, 2011, 03:38 PM
    jdsti06
    As far as I know it just controlled the light in the room

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