Rebuilt the 2.2L engine and had to use another 5S block as the original was beyond oversizing. Problem is selecting correct shims for the balancer assy. First, I was not able to borrow/find the SST (09224-74010) in a timely fashion. Second, only have a "puny" .001 dial indication, so I can't accurately determine backlash (.0010-.0026"). I used the original block's shims for baseline and the perceived backlash indicated I use a #21 shim. However, upon startup, I got the "ting-ting-ting" metallic noise from too wide a backlash. My question am I supposed to use the shims/spacers from the original block's balancer or the new block's balancer. I don't won't to wreck any gears, but the noise sure makes you fee bad about the rebuild. On the flipside, NO balancer sure is quiet, but the vibration is too intrusive. Any help or advice would be appreciated!

To be honest with you, I've never heard a ting ting noise caused by a improper shim in the bs assy.
It's always a "whine" noise issue.
Countless short blocks have been switched over using the original shims. However, a doner engine always gets the shims it came with.
Bottom line: use the bs assy and the shims the block was born with. Be sure it's timed correctly.

Thanks Kitch! Sorry, the ting-ting was an attempt to describe the light metal-to-metal gear noise. The more commonly used term is probably rattle (albeit, muted somewhat).

I was hoping you wouldn't say that. I left the donor block's balancer and shims at the machine shop (amid at least a handful of other balancers). So, it's dependent upon the Block AND the bs assy as to which shims to use? Or, can I just rob a bs assy and it's shims off another block?

Also, I thought you encountered a whine when the gears were too tight (thinking of ring and pinion setup, though).

Please help me out with these noises. So, if there's a rattle, isn't the backlash clearance too much? And, the whine indicates that's you're closer to specs, but there's still too much play (backlash)? Is that correct? And, if you're too tight, there's probably an eerie silence or a heavy metal band festival, no?

Timing of the balancer was done at #1 TDC and the balance shafts' at home with the balancer housing per the FSM. Backlash checked (sort of given the equipment) at 30, 100, 210, and 280 degrees ATDC on the crankshaft and Marks A and B on the shafts.

Much thanks!

You're right. If it's excessive backlash, then it can sound just like a rod knock.
Too tight, she starts to whine. Which is normal on a cold start up, but diminishes as she warms.
I go by the "feel" approach. I grab the end of the balance shaft at tdc, and rotate it back and forth. You can get the feel of 1 to 2 thousands. But that's just me.
You can't get these perfect so don't dwell on it too much. Go with what you got.

You can get the feel of 1 to 2 thousands That reminds me of a friend that could set the mixture with his nose. He was/is very good at it. But that's a real gift to be that sensitive. I can rotate it back and forth thinking that it was tight only to have it rattle. Oh, darn!

So, don't try another balancer and its shims? How about purchasing a thinner shim (#19 or lower)? The rattle is a little disconcerting, especially, after a rebuild. Had I had more time, I would have taken it to someone with the equipment and skill... now where in NC are you? Just jesting.

If this was you rebuild, and the rattle was just a little bit too noisy, which route would you take? Of course, I realize that you have experience and expertise with these and I don't and that influences the outcome tremendously. Thanks for your help and collaboration!

I meant for the You can get the feel of 1 to 2 thousands to be quoted, but I guess it didn't take.

Yeah that's about it. The feel is like skipping the needle over to the next groove on a record. Ain't much "feel" to that is there lol.
You've convinced me to recommend to try the next size thinner shim. They shouldn't cost much, and you shouldn't have to re gasket the pan each time you try.
You're only test running a short time.
I'm in the Triangle area.

Just a little FYI. Did you know these BS assy's have bearings in them just like the crank?
If these bearings are worn (from the original motor that was worn), they can BE the cause of the rattle.
Do you have another bs assy you could experiment with?

I think you hit on something there. When I tried the original #29 shims, there almost seemed like two noises (similar, but distinct). I ruled it out, but when I went to the #21 shims, there was only the rattle noise. Because I do get a more pronounced whine with the smaller 21 shims and the "ting-ting" that I mentioned. It doesn't really mimic a rod knock or piston slap sound. Could I be good on the shims at 21, but some of the six bearings inside the balancer are bad? I can get another bs assy, but what shims to use? If I can get a good one that has shims, will I be OK, or is it dependent upon the block, too?

I've got a FPro oil pan gasket that is good for several oil pan changes, so far.

The shims were $6/each from Toyo dealer in Fayetteville (it took them awhile to get them in, tho).

What do you think?

Opened up the balancer assembly and there was scoring on the bearings. Decided to pick through a pile of discarded balancers at the machine shop in hopes I'd fine a good one. No luck, but ended up at a upull yard and retrieved a decent looking, rotating one off a 96 model. The shims were a #27 and the odometer was 283k... It had light discoloration (a copper look, not the worn out overheated purplish color ones we've seen). Pulled one rod and main cap and the bearing looked REALLY good for 283k miles. Didn't clean it up not knowing if it was any good, but did force feed some oil in the gallery as I rotated the shafts. Installed it and it sounded good. Slight teeth noise from interaction/wear. I could have let it go there, but had the #21 shims, so I decided to use them. Bingo! Quiet... shhhh. I could only hear the valve train in the head noise. Nice! A great big shout out to Mr Sensitive and Patient, Kitch428.

Here to help! Nice work. More patient than me I'd say.
Glad it worked out. You get a lot done in one day and that's impressive.
Touch base with us here at AMHD once in a while, or feel free to join in and help others in need.
Good day, sir!

Edit: I just found this old post with an attachment I had put on there. I know it's late now, but may be helpful in the future.
https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ft-451112.html

I like to stay on the move and I just couldn't live with the "less than perfect" rattle.

I have a similar PDF that lists for a 2000 Camry 5SFE. The chart and backlash specs are different from the one in your earlier post (for a 1996 Camry). That is interesting to know that there was a wider acceptable backlash in the earlier models. I know that TMC made a running change on the BS assy and crank gear to reduce NVH and I'm surprised that the backlash play was wider that later Camrys.

I will do my best to offer help, but my experience is not all that widespread.

Thanks again.