I'm goining to add a new subpanel to a detached garage , for a 6-3g 240v outlet for use with mechanic's tools (small mechanic work) and a few 120v outlets and mabe a over head light (florecent)
Now I've studied the panel info I've found online but haven't came across the QUESTION of
Do I need to drive a 6'-10' copper ground rod into the ground for the garage sub panel annd if so , could I get a little info on the proper connection of this rod?

1 more thing a 50a breaker for the 240v should be fine? and 15a's for lighs and outlets? Correct?
2 if the main breaker on the main panel is 100a do I need to get a bigger main breaker to run
The sub panel for the garage?
3 I forgot 1 more thing... dose the ground bar and the nuteral bar need connected on this sub panel or leave un connected?
Thankx GUYS/ GALS!:confused:

OK
I am running new service for the house MAIN to my garage and I want to run it over head like the existing wire was (its going to be removed and new sub panel instaled)
Reason I want to run over head is to keep from having to trench the wire 2'-3' in the ground.
My question is after the wire comes out of the conduit how do I keep the wire tention tight so it doesn't sag? And at the area it reaches the garage how do I support the weight of the wire to the garage and house?
If this isn't enough info I included a drawing of what I'm doing
http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/2...hnswireyi6.png
The red arrows are the areas I need to know how to support the weight on!
Thankcx GUYS / GALS!

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Originally Posted by wwpirateww

im goining to add a new subpanel to a detached garage , for a 6-3g 240v outlet for use with mechanic's tools (small mechanic work) and a few 120v outlets and mabe a over head light (florecent)
now ive studied the panel info ive found online but havent came across the QUESTION of
do i need to drive a 6'-10' copper ground rod into the ground for the garage sub panel annd if so , could i get a lil info on the proper connection of this rod?

1 more thing a 50a breaker for the 240v should be fine?, and 15a's for lighs and outlets? correct?
2 if the main breaker on the main panel is 100a do i need to get a bigger main breaker to run
the sub panel 4 the garage?
3 i forgot 1 more thing ....dose the ground bar and the nuteral bar need connected on this sub panel or leave un connected?
thankx GUYS/ GALS!:confused:

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If you have a 4 wire feeder to the subpanel, with two hots, 1 neutral, and 1 equipment ground, which is the typical and preferred method,then no ground rod is allowed. With this method, the neutral is connected to the panels isolated/insulated neutral lug/bar, and is not bonded to the metal backbox of the panel, and the equipment ground connects to a separate ground lug/bar that is bolted with machine screws directly to the panel back box.

If the feeder only consists of two hot and one neutral, then at least two grounding electrodes are required, one as the primary and one as the supplemental. Typically these are 8 foot long x 1/2" copper clad rods. This method requires the neutral bar to be bonded to the metal back box, and also is where the grounding electrode conductor,(wire to ground rods) connects, along with all branch circuit neutrals and ground wires.

The 50 amp feeder breaker is fine as long as the total connected running load is no more than 40 amps.

The 100 amp service, not just the breaker, will need to be upgraded to a larger service, if the existing connected running load plus the new added load is larger than 80 amps.

15 amp circuits can be used for lighting and outlets, however I would use 15 amp for the lights only, and 20 amp circuits for the outlets.

When only connecting a grounding electrode conductor to a ground rod, then the minimum size copper wire allowed is #6 copper. There are two types of "ground clamps" one with two volts and a two piece clamp, and another called an "acorn" clamp, looks like an acon nut and as one large bolt that squeezes the wire and rod together.

Hope this helps, get back with any more questions you may have.

Since the run is only about 25 feet, a wood screw insulator such as the one in the picture I provided will be fine. The tension for such a short run is done by hand. If you need to you can use a Come-Along, just be sure to not make that cable too tight, as it needs to expand in the summer and it will contract in the winter. If it is too tight, the contraction of the metal in the winter cold can pull the insulators out of the wood.

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OK COULD U EXPLAIN OR REDRAW THISA IMAGE FOR ME TO show me were this wire connects or the diagram 4 this ? Please I'm a little lost . This drawing is with out the surroundings just the panels only , it showes the main coming in and the new wires going to the sub panel, can you tell what I mean in this drawing?
Thankx for the super fast reply!
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What drawing? Did you miss adding it to your post?