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-   -   I'd like to make my garage taller... (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=511003)

  • Sep 26, 2010, 09:31 AM
    logan176
    I'd like to make my garage taller...
    I have a small 1-car garage that was build back in the 50s. The walls are only 7' tall. I'd like to rip the roof off, and add a 2' wall on top of the existing 7' wall to bring the total wall height up to 9'. This way I can install a larger garage door and get the CRV in. Then I would obviously put the roof back on. Assuming that the current walls are strong enough to support the extra weight (I'll be checking with an architect before I start the project) will this idea work?
  • Sep 26, 2010, 09:37 AM
    cdad

    How large is the actual footprint of the current building? You should be able to raise the building from the ground and reinforce the foundation to whatever height you choose.
  • Sep 26, 2010, 06:47 PM
    logan176
    The garage's footprint is about 13x22. I'd really love for it to be about 3-4 feet wider but that would require me to tear down the entire garage and I'm not sure if I'm ready to do that.
  • Sep 27, 2010, 07:37 PM
    ballengerb1

    It would help us if you just pick one, make it taller or make it wider and taller. One is a big job for a DIYer and the other is a huge job.
  • Sep 27, 2010, 07:48 PM
    logan176
    In all likelihood I'll just be going taller. Yes, it's a big job but I know I have the skills to handle it. I just need a little guidance in some areas. For example, if I add the two foot wall on top of the current wall will I need collar ties at the top of the original wall and then again at the top of the smaller wall? How do I secure the smaller top wall to the original wall?
  • Sep 28, 2010, 01:19 AM
    KBC
    You are only raising the roof line.The studs can be extended by installing ,say,a 6' stud,3-4' of it above the top of the existing stud.You will have to remove the top plate(and save as you can then re-attach it to the new top of the walls)Double plate included,it depends on how your garage was made.

    I am sure there are many methods to raising the roof,including removal of the entire top and rebuilding,but you can also crane up the top,add the new studs/plate replacement,and drop the roof back down.

    Weighing the costs of removal and rebuilding verses the costs of a crane and operator for a day,which one sounds more cost effective?

    Corners would need additional wood as they carry more than the line studs,if you look at how they are now,picture them with wood on top of them(called sistering)and also wood inside the sistering,making a solid post in the corners.

    Herold could draw this picture, I really need to learn his technique:p

    Think of this,a crane lifts the rooftop,plates and all,the rooftop is up 5 feet or more.

    Below,you are sistering the studs to the existing stud wall and completing the sistering for the posts,etc.Once all the stud extensions are done(with a nail gun and proper planning,this can be done very quickly),the roof gets lowered back,even IF you install a new top plate, making a second,or even a third plate, the new head height is what you desire,and you haven't had to remove all the roof,sister all the studs,then rebuild all that structure again!

    Just my way of thinking,, (at 3 AM.. :( )

    Hope this helped:)

    Ken
  • Sep 28, 2010, 04:02 PM
    ballengerb1

    I would not add a few feet of 2x4 to the old wall to raise it another 2'. That old wall is 60 years old, why put this much weight on such old lumber. I'd install full length studs sistered to the old ones. I do not think you will or should try to save any of the old roof.
  • Sep 28, 2010, 08:02 PM
    logan176
    Putting it that way, not building on top of the old lumber makes sense. But if I'm going to sister new, taller studs to the old ones there will not be much cost difference between doing that and just building a new one from the ground up. So unless I'm mistaken my best option would probably just to tear down what I have since the price difference wouldn't be all that much.
  • Sep 28, 2010, 08:06 PM
    logan176
    Comment on logan176's post
    A complete teardown would also allow me to use 2x6s instead of 2x4s.
  • Sep 29, 2010, 07:28 AM
    ballengerb1

    Your idea isn't faulty by any means but there is more to your gargage than the studs. 2x6 in a garage is quite rare, 2x4 is standard while 2x6 is frequently now used in homes to get in more insulation.
  • Sep 29, 2010, 04:20 PM
    logan176
    There is definitely more... there's the cost of dumping the materials, the cost for going over the old slab with a new one because the old slab is cracked like hell, and there's the cost for laying new cinderblocks if I want to make the garage wider. Even things like nails add up after a while. You guys have given me some good ideas to think about and I'll be able to make better decisions because of your help. Thanks again.
  • Sep 29, 2010, 04:35 PM
    ballengerb1

    When I read your first post I thought about saying it should be torn down but I wanted to stick with your question. Starting from scratch would be best. However a 2 car 22x24 garage can run $22K to $30K but it would be swell.
  • Sep 29, 2010, 05:23 PM
    logan176
    Although I'd love to, I can't fit a garage that big on my property because it would be too close to the property line. My dream garage would be a 2-car with a workshop in the attic space. After what you guys have shared I'm thinking of going in one of three directions.

    1: Leave it alone, use it for a workshop and not have cars in there. When I turn the breezeway into a mudroom I'll just deal with the ceiling not being as tall as I'd like. I think I can do this myself for about $4,000-$5,000.

    2. Knock the garage down and build a new one that is slightly bigger. Maybe go from my current 13x22 to a 15x24. It's only a small increase in size but it would give me enough room for a work bench, my tools, and a car. I would also go a few feet taller, this would allow for a taller mudroom whose roof would actually clear the edges of my back door. The current breezeway cuts the corners of the door frame. This would be closer to $10,000.

    3. Knock the garage down and build a garage that's fully attached to the house. This would allow for a 20x22 garage which means more room for the workshop, storage, and to get out of the car. However, I wouldn't be able to add a mudroom. This would be a huge bummer but I guess I could add a couple benches and hooks in the larger garage for people to take off their wet or snowy shoes. I'm not sure how much this would cost... I'm guessing a lot!

    I'll upload a picture soon to help with a visual.
  • Sep 29, 2010, 05:26 PM
    logan176
    Comment on logan176's post
    All prices are estimates for me doing the work with my father and my father-in-law. Both men are very capable. Not to mention my father-in-law built an addition on to his house years ago!
  • Sep 29, 2010, 06:20 PM
    ballengerb1

    If you do the labor you will save well over half the cost. Build as large a garage as you can afford and building codes allow. Nobody ever said "I wish my garage was smaller" Good luck

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