98 honda civic lx----car died while driving--battery fine, just had a tune up w/new distributor & cap, car is at mechanic right now, they just told me its still not firing after they replaced coil... my check engine light has been on for several months.. I've replaced 02 sensors twice and done other repairs.. check engine line remains on..? help

Over 50% of new aftermarket distributors for Hondas don't work at AMHD. Use a genuine Honda distributor housing, along with a new aftermarket igniter and coil, to keep the cost down, and your car should fire right up. This presumes the Check Engine Light comes on and goes off normally, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II).

Thanks.. I'll see if they can try that. I purchased the distributor from Autozone.. I've also read the other posts and see that the ignitor is frequently the issue.. Im really scared that it is the computer... thnx

That's why I said it presumes the CEL comes on and goes off normally. If it does, the ECM is likely fine and the problem is with the distributor.

.. and if the cel doesn't go off like it hasn't for past several months.. then what % is it the ecm?

Very high.

If the CEL stays on, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) 15 amp fuse, in the under dash fuse/relay box; ECM (perform the K-Test); main relay; or the ignition switch. Perform tests in that order.

If the fuses are fine, the ECM is likely the culprit.

The mechanic won't get spark and the fuel pump won't run, if the ECM is bad or the main ECM ground, located on the thermostat housing, is corroded.

Well.. get this mechanics just called and said they replaced the control module along with coil and car is running great! Said the control module looked original... could this really be the answer? fingers crossed

If you know what you're doing, your problem is simple to diagnose and fix. If you don't know what you're doing, you'll waste a lot of time and money trying to get it fixed.

Here's the part that doesn't make sense. Why did he install a new Ignition Control Module and coil in a new AutoZone distributor, which likely came with the same?

If the CEL stays on again in the future, the engine won't start. When ECMs are intermittently failing, which is what it sounds like you are describing, you could be stranded on the road soon. You need to make sure the CEL comes on and goes off every time the way it's supposed to. Otherwise, it's really not fixed.

Replacing the Ignition Control Module and coil is what I always recommend, in a situation like your's, provided the CEL works properly.

10-4 on that.. it tried to die on me again today.. again took it to shop that has 40yrs exp in Hondas. Did diag test keeps coming up front 02 sensor prob.. he looked at plug & one prong was not connecting, pulled it up to connect & ran diag again.. does now show 02 good readings as well as throttle but here's the thing I believe it halfway tried to die about 3 hrs after that... what now..

Also another question: This "k test" with the ecm he should know what that is? And I know main relay is fine--if the prob is the fuse would there be any other indicator it is a fuse problem like lights or a/c??

He won't know what the K-Test is--I invented it as an overall ECM test 50 months ago.

Well the saga continues on the 1998 honda civic lx.. after having icm and coil installed (after tuneup w/new dist) it halfway died on me tonight.. the diag test comes up w/only 02 sensor prob.. after finding a prong that wasn't connecting in the front 02 sensor was working fine.. I believed it halfway tried to die again tonight.. the fuel system is fine.. anybody know where I can find a cheap ECM?? ha ha

It looks like we are down to the aftermarket distributor housing or the ECM being bad.

Also I tried to tell him about the housing issue but not sure if he took that seriously... personally I'm going to be pessimestic and say it is the ECM>.

I'm dropping the car off tomm w/him.. and going to reiterate about the honda housing...

Thanks for all your help by the way! Where can I find this Ktest?

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

The K-Test mainly confirms the ECM is bad, when the CEL stays on and the car won't start. If that's not ever your situation, then I suspect the aftermarket distributor housing is the culprit.