I have recently extended wiring from an outlet to 6 recessed ceiling lights in the kitchen. The lights are 50W halogen. The lights are controlled by a dimmer switch. I have double-checked to make sure the insulation is not within 3" of any of the lights. The lights/dimmer worked fine for about a week. Then one halogen blew. I have not been to the home store to get a replacement. 2 days later a second bulb blew. Neither time did the breaker flip off.
Where should I begin looking? Is it possibly the dimmer switch, or is 6 bulbs on the line too many and I should rewire on two circuits? Or, could it be something else?

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Originally Posted by bobcatrel

I have recently extended wiring from an outlet to 6 recessed ceiling lights in the kitchen. The lights are 50W halogen. The lights are controlled by a dimmer switch. I have double-checked to make sure the insulation is not within 3" of any of the lights. The lights/dimmer worked fine for about a week. Then one halogen blew. I have not been to the home store to get a replacement. 2 days later a second bulb blew. Neither time did the breaker flip off.
Where should I begin looking? Is it possibly the dimmer switch, or is 6 bulbs on the line too many and I should rewire on two circuits? Or, could it be something else?

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Interesting... something similar happened to me. I had 3 recessed lights on one circuit in the kitchen and I had paid about $8 per halogen bulb for those. When I did the dining room, 6 lights, I bought 2 3-packs and paid about $9 for each of the packs... so I basically got 3 for the price of one of the others in the kitchen. I probably blew 5 or 6 in the dining room before one ever blew in the kitchen... I think it was definitely a bulb quality issue.

If your dimmer is defective it is possible that even whwn you think it's off it might still be allowing voltage through and causing a problem with the lights.

I suppose there could be some cross wiring somewhere causing the black wire to be carrying power to the lights even when the switch is off, but if you wired this yourself presumably you are cutting the live feed off at the switch and not carrying any voltage to your lights when the switch is off.

Not sure what else could be causing that. I am not an expert electrician by any means... I am merely speaking from things I have experienced during 10 years of owning a badly wired home...

First confirm the halogen lamps are rated for 120 volts, then confirmthe voltage at the fixtures is 120 volts with the dimmer at full on.

Halogen lamps are notorious for short life. Rough handling the lamp will shock the filament. Entrapped heat will shorten the life.

Lamps burning out would not cause the breaker to trip.

The lamps may be cheap off shore brand, keep the burnt ones to see if you can return them for credit.

Try finding 130 volt rated bulbs.

The total load of 300 watts is fine, though the dimmer may be the cause also.