hello guys,

My wife and I just bought a two story single family home. It has a back porch attached to it. The problem with the porch is that it is starting to detach from the back wall of the house. There are only three 4x4's supporting it at the end of the porch. It seems like the 4x4"s are not vertically level. Now every time it rains the water comes in from the roof where the house and the back porch meet. There is a gap between both walls. My question is how can I bring the back porch up against the house wall and keep it from detaching? Any ideas? It's amazing the things you learn when you become a home owner... :)

p.s. here are some pics..

The leaning post is a problem, I think 3 posts just isn't enough to support that much building anyway.

The roof detaching from the wall,that might be because of the settling and that they didn't install any flashing.Flashing is installed with the cutting of the mortar line about 1-2 courses above the roof line,the metal is bent to go into the opening and down the wall and bent outwards towards the end of the roof,with an additional 1/2" down bend to nail it to the roof where the shingle tabs end.

A bit technical,but any roofer would understand what I am describing.

That is just one way of doing this to make it rainproof.there are a few more as well.

IF!! I were you,I would have a skilled roofer come,remove the last courses of shingle and look at how the roof line is connected, is the plate where the rafters still tight to the building,are the rafters tight to the plate.. etc.If they are then closing the gap off can be done as I stated above.. or any number of ways.just not the way it was done last time, no flashing,only roof cement, sheesh, very unprofessional.

If the building/addition,etc is settling away from the home,then you might need to lift the sections one post at a time,installing new posts,and perhaps more than just the 3 that are there, that would never pass code.

Hope this helps:)

KBC

Wow. First thought was it was just sinking at the posts but seeing pics it looks lke its falling away from the house..

Take kbc's advice.. this needs a professional consultation.

KBC has nailed.

If lifting and replacing post would change to 4 inch steel lolly columns. If staying with 4x4's, would split the area with 2 additional post. I calculate the length of porch to be about 24 feet. To meet code in my area would have to have at lest 4 posts.

Chuck

Quote:

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Originally Posted by KBC

The leaning post is a problem,,I think 3 posts just isn't enough to support that much building anyway.

The roof detaching from the wall,that might be because of the settling and that they didn't install any flashing.Flashing is installed with the cutting of the mortar line about 1-2 courses above the roof line,the metal is bent to go into the opening and down the wall and bent outwards towards the end of the roof,with an additional 1/2" down bend to nail it to the roof where the shingle tabs end.

A bit technical,but any roofer would understand what I am describing.

That is just one way of doing this to make it rainproof.there are a few more as well.

IF!!!,I were you,I would have a skilled roofer come,remove the last courses of shingle and look at how the roof line is connected,,is the plate where the rafters still tight to the building,are the rafters tight to the plate..etc.If they are then closing the gap off can be done as I stated above..or any number of ways.just not the way it was done last time,,no flashing,only roof cement,,sheesh,,very unprofessional.

If the building/addition,etc is settling away from the home,then you might need to lift the sections one post at a time,installing new posts,and perhaps more than just the 3 that are there,,that would never pass code.

Hope this helps:)

KBC

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KBC, so do you think I should just lift and add extra 4x4"s. Maybe also add new concrete under 4x4"s?

As creahands said,perhaps using steel to replace might be desirable,and adding additional posts too.

Yes,always dig below the frost line to set posts.

Are you going to do this yourself?It is possible.

PS,can you see the black tar running about 12" up the back wall,that's where an old roofing ran,up that high and most likely nailed in(possibly with termination bar) and that stuff you see was the adhesive used to seal the material to the wall.

That's how the old roof was kept dry for as long as it did, probably until it failed and they replaces the roof with shingles.

The shingles don't look very old, and with no vents,I am surprised there isn't any failing already.Get 2 roof vents installed when you get this work done also.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by KBC

As creahands said,perhaps using steel to replace might be desirable,and adding additional posts too.

Yes,always dig below the frost line to set posts.

Are you going to do this yourself?It is possible.

PS,can you see the black tar running about 12" up the back wall,that's where an old roofing ran,up that high and most likely nailed in(possibly with termination bar) and that stuff you see was the adhesive used to seal the material to the wall.

That's how the old roof was kept dry for as long as it did,,probably until it failed and they replaces the roof with shingles.

The shingles don't look very old,,and with no vents,I am surprised there isn't any failing already.Get 2 roof vents installed when you get this work done also.

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Yes my wife and I plan on tackling this ourselves. Do you know how deep I should set cement for posts and should I use some type of cement lag bolts to bolt top of porch on to back wall of house for extra support?

Depth,I go at least 36-40" up here,we are in the same area of northern Ill.I believe that 40" is code,but I am not positive..

If the shingles are removed,the wood sheeting removed,just down enough to access the plate and joists, say 12-14", this would allow swing space for hammers and drill space for the installation of anchors into the brick,if necessary.I use lag shields to go into the brick,allowing them to expand, others might not,but I always have.Perhaps they will offer some other fasteners.

Removing the last few courses of shingles, say 4 rows, that would allow you enough open sheeting to cut and remove, you can test an area first,the left or right sides where you show the most of the separation, if that is loose,most likely the whole building is also., Install anchors between rafters,probably skipping one then install one,etc.. I say this because of the age of this building and the lack of ventilation.(Which will have contributed to either dry rot or with the openings,to moisture rotting on the plate.You might even have to replace some of the bad plate(worst case)

So again,once bolted in,sheeting replaced,felt paper,shingled,new flashing installed properly,and 2 new vents, then your down to the posts... sounds like a real easy 5 minute job to me... :D

Ask all you want to here,there are many of us who enjoy the advising.

KBC

Quote:

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Originally Posted by KBC

Depth,I go at least 36-40" up here,we are in the same area of northern Ill.I believe that 40" is code,but I am not positive..

If the shingles are removed,the wood sheeting removed,just down enough to access the plate and joists,,say 12-14",,this would allow swing space for hammers and drill space for the installation of anchors into the brick,if necessary.I use lag shields to go into the brick,allowing them to expand,,others might not,but I always have.Perhaps they will offer some other fasteners.

Removing the last few courses of shingles,,say 4 rows,,that would allow you enough open sheeting to cut and remove,,you can test an area first,the left or right sides where you show the most of the separation,,if that is loose,most likely the whole building is also.,,Install anchors between rafters,probably skipping one then install one,etc..I say this because of the age of this building and the lack of ventilation.(Which will have contributed to either dry rot or with the openings,to moisture rotting on the plate.You might even have to replace some of the bad plate(worst case)

So again,once bolted in,sheeting replaced,felt paper,shingled,new flashing installed properly,and 2 new vents,,then your down to the posts...sounds like a real easy 5 minute job to me...:D

Ask all you want to here,there are many of us who enjoy the advising.

KBC

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Well then KBC, a 5 minute job should leave me some time throw back a couple of chilled ones. Thanks again for your help KBC. :)

Have a few for me,will you?