Hi, I need help, I can't get water to pump into tank. I bought a new pump and tank but it still won't work. I have a 19 gallon upright tank with air value on top and one hook-up at the bottom of the tank. And a 1 hp, 800 watt, 60hz, 10 amp max, 3/4, 120volt, 23 to 50psi, 23gpm max water pump. I've tried the recommended air pressure in the tank, I even let all the air out of the tank but nothing worked. The fossit is about 40 feet from the pump. I have a shallow well. The pump works/ primes fine because in a few seconds all the lines get cold even the line going to the tank, which let me know the water is there but it will not go in the tank. If I go to turn the fossit on ,water and pressure comes out fine until all the water is out of the line. Pump kicks on again until it fills up the line and then it kicks off, still no water in tank.Why is there no water going in tank?

We get this question frequently. It basically comes down to this. You have a relatively small tank to begin with, so your pump cycle times will not be long. When you first begin using a tank, there is air above the bladder (normal) and below the bladder (not normal). So, not as much water enters the tank as you would expect. However, as the weeks go by, the air below the bladder will dissolve into the water. Eventually, the area below the bladder will be completely filled with water.

The only way around this I can think of would be to invert the tank before you install and fill the bottom with water. Attach the T connection and block the pipe ends with tape or whatever. It would take some patience, but I would think you could then install the tank and keep most of the water in place. Never tried it before, mind you, but maybe it would work.

What do you have the pump switch set at?

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Originally Posted by hkstroud

What do you have the pump switch set at?

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I don't think it has a pump switch, I didn't see one. All it has is a reset button and a on/off switch. At the reset button it has three lights, power, pump on, and failure. Every time it kicks off the failure light lights up.

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Originally Posted by moorer2

I don't think it has a pump switch, I didn't see one. All it has is a reset button and a on/off switch. At the reset button it has three lights, power, pump on, and failure. Everytime it kicks off the failure light lights up.

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I forgot to mention, the pump instruction said if the failure light comes on it means there's a leak somewhere, we checked no leaks

It has to have some kind of pressure activated switch. Other wise you would have to turn it on manually to pump water and turn it off to stop.

The switch is probably attached to or integrated into the pump. Can you give us a make/model on the pump?

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Originally Posted by jlisenbe

The switch is probably attached to or integrated into the pump. Can you give us a make/model on the pump?

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Make is Pacific Hydrostar
Model is 6719

That appears to be a booster pump, not a well pump. Hasn't gotten good reviews at Harbor Freight. Does installation instructions give any instructions for adjusting pressure switch? Somehow I don't think its going to work very well as a well pump.

Link to Harbor Freight

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Originally Posted by hkstroud

That appears to be a booster pump, not a well pump. Hasn't gotten good reviews at Harbor Freight. Does installation instructions give any instructions for adjusting pressure switch? Somehow I don't think its going to work very well as a well pump.

Link to Harbor Freight

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No, the installation doesn't say anything about a pressure switch.
The pump looks the same as the one on your site

HK is exactly correct. You are using a booster pump (PH model 96719?? I could not find a 6719 with a Google search) , and even worse, a cheap booster pump (hundred bucks). Booster pumps are not really designed to pump from a well. They are intended to take water already under some pressure (let's say 20#) and "boost" the pressure to perhaps 50#. They are typically sold as you see it, with either no pressure tank or, at best, a very small one attached to the pump. The switch is integrated into your control head. So, when someone turns on a faucet in the house, the pump cuts on. When demand ceases, the pump turns off.

Most well pumps come on at some set point (let's say 30#) and then turn off at another set pressure point (let's say 50#). There is typically a 20 pound range between those two points. I have no idea where your pump is cutting on/off as the specs did not say, but I'm going to guess it is a good bit less than a 20 pound interval. That might work fine for a booster pump, but it's not so hot for a well pump. If I were you, I'd watch my pressure gauge as the pump cycles to see where it is cutting on and where it is cutting off.

Having said all that, I still think your problem is with your tank not being "broken in" yet. I'd give that part of it a few weeks. But I don't know that you will ever be satisfied with the system you have. The tank is very small and the pump does not appear to be a well pump.

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Originally Posted by jlisenbe

HK is exactly correct. You are using a booster pump (PH model 96719??? I could not find a 6719 with a google search) , and even worse, a cheap booster pump (hundred bucks). Booster pumps are not really designed to pump from a well. They are intended to take water already under some pressure (let's say 20#) and "boost" the pressure to perhaps 50#. They are typically sold as you see it, with either no pressure tank or, at best, a very small one attached to the pump. The switch is integrated into your control head. So, when someone turns on a faucet in teh house, the pump cuts on. When demand ceases, the pump turns off.

Most well pumps come on at some set point (let's say 30#) and then turn off at another set pressure point (let's say 50#). There is typically a 20 pound range between those two points. I have no idea where your pump is cutting on/off as the specs did not say, but I'm going to guess it is a good bit less than a 20 pound interval. That might work fine for a booster pump, but it's not so hot for a well pump. If I were you, I'd watch my pressure gauge as the pump cycles to see where it is cutting on and where it is cutting off.

Having said all that, I still think your problem is with your tank not being "broken in" yet. I'd give that part of it a few weeks. But I don't know that you will ever be satisfied with the system you have. The tank is very small and the pump does not appear to be a well pump.

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I guess I will try to find the receipt so I can return It and get a shallow WELL pump. I am sorry about the model number it is 96719. Sorry to you also hkstroud. Thank you both for all your help.

Hope it goes "well" with you. I am also on a residential well. It can be challenging, to say the least.

BTW, Moorer, do let us know how it works out for you. It's always interesting to us to hear how the story ends.

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Originally Posted by jlisenbe

BTW, Moorer, do let us know how it works out for you. It's always interesting to us to hear how the story ends.

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Hi All, I'm back
I returned the booster pump that I had and got a shallow well pump. I made sure it had a pressure switch and that I knew where it was and how it worked before I left the store. To make a long story short, I got home installed it and I'm back in business! It works great. Although a bigger tank wouldn't hurt, everything works fine. Again I want to thank you and hkstroud for all your help because I really didn't know what to do next, I've tried everything, never knew it was the pump. Thanks again

Hooray! Always good to see a happy resolution.

Hello there. We are having issues with our pumping system. Some days no problems at all and other days we may have to go out to our pump house and give a tap on the switch box in order to start the pump. We may have to do this several times a day, and there could be severals days or weeks go by and nothing need be done. We replaced the pump and switch about 2 yrs ago. Could it be possible that the switch would need replaced again already? The tank is at least 20 plus years, most likely a bladder type. We also noticed that the pressure gauge should be replaced. Suggestions please.

If tapping on switch corrects the problem (temporarily) the problem could be the switch or it could be the water line to the switch is partially clogged. If you the switch is only 2 years old the problem is probably a clogged line.
Turn off breaker, If you have a valve between switch and tank close it. Remove switch from piping. Inspect switch port and piping for rust and mineral deposits. Open valve briefly and let tank pressure flush out piping. If you do not have valve between switch and tank, drain tank.

If switch is on small tubing from tank, turn off breaker, drain tank, remove switch from tubing. Inspect, clean tubing and reinstall.

We have air in our lines - water won't come out of faucets.

What can we do? No Water now.

1. Check breaker and make sure it is on.
2. If it is on, the locate the pressure switch (see link below). Check to be sure the contact points are touching. If they are not, then your switch is bad.

Scroll towards the bottom of this site. A lot of good pics of pressure switch.

Replacing A Pressure Tank On A Residential Water Well System